i have no idea where an ideas page is .. maybe you can provide a link?

use the camera or photo buttons below the box you type in ... to put a pic in a reply ... how it works.. might depend on your gizmo ....

welcome ... throw in your location while you are at it ... ken

Hi Ken, thank you for replying and thanks for clueing me in on how to post pictures. So here you go and I live in San Diego, California. I sure hope you can enlighten me on this matter. ‍♀️

That’s a bummer. You can try pushing the two sides back together and then secure them in place with some rope and in ground stakes. Does each half still have root connection?

Grafting another branch on would likely not work, nor would it achieve a balanced canopy. I would try to remarry them and see, but watch closely for rot. I have lost large branches too because of late season weight....actually, just lost a j105 branch.

The full season’s growth of leaves and heavy inflos sometimes need staking on my trees until the stem hardens up and you can see the brownish gray bark. Those Santa Ana winds are coming in a few weeks so check your patch for others that might catch the wind and potentially break.

Good luck with this one.

-s

i dont do P's ... nor CA ... soooo ... fwiw ... lol

it appears this plant serves a sight block purpose ... if so ... get rid of it ... and replace it ...

and buy a better specimen ... this on appears to have been grown with a poor crotch angle ... to the extent.. that it collapsed ... choosing a better one.. at point of sale would be key ...

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=crotch+angle&t=ffcm&iax=images&ia=images

otherwise .... it might take 2 to 4 years.. for this one to recover to the size you need for sight block.. though it might all happen faster in CA ... thats the part i dont know ...

in the first pic.. i can still see the planting hole.. and that soil looks really dry ... if you do plant a new one .... it can be done better .. and watering will need to be perfected for a couple years ...

and proper watering of a transplant will not rely on some drip system ...

see link for a primer on planting a shrub ...

https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub

unless i am way out in left field.. it can not be divided.... and its not worth you trying to graft it .. imo ....

and.. since its out front of your castle... i would not try to tie it up and hope it heals and all that ... if something like this was out back on my 5 acres.. thats one thing.. but who wants to look at all that for 3 to 5 year.. while you hope it somehow can heal itself ... only to fail again.. down the line ...

good luck

ken

This appears to me to be a stress break. Perhaps a car door swung into it or it got bumped by a car. I would attempt to tie it up and stake it. I would estimate the plant to be 6-8 years old so its worth the attempt. I don't believe the wound will heal or close up but the plant may be able to recover and grow around it.

A plumeria is not a tree. It will not cover over the break, nor will it grow together at the break. Start over.

Jean, who previously gardened for 30+ years in Long Beach, CA

My experience has been that Plumeria trees will heal around damaged areas provided the damaged area does not "girdle" the trunk.

Personally, I would stake it and it should recover if you want to keep it as it is.. You could try to bind them but it may not work. Because of my love of propagation I would end up popping one half into a new pot and call it a cutting.

Looks like everyone has an idea of what to do. I agree with Carlota, cut the downhill branch loosen root ball and stake it perpendicular to the horizontal plain so it does not lean over and want to do this again next time a branch grows on the down hill side. The ramification of the branches will even out over the years. This will also create a more tree like structure instead having the plant branch at soil level. I prefer more of a tree form than a bush or shrub look it depends on your taste and the application.