Record the chimes you miss and set a clock to play them?

Fewer square feet of windows, and insulated drapes help. https://www.houselogic.com/remodel/windows-doors-and-floors/soundproof-windows/ and this quote comes from the NEXT link, but that said, if you read the first link I am sharing and this 2nd link, I think you will be able to make an informed decision based on what Science says, not the salesman..... >>>>"

"Most experts agree that if you want superior soundproofing in your windows, you should choose laminated glass. Laminated windows have a transparent layer of plastic sandwiched between two outer layers of glass panes. This plastic insert works to deaden noise and vibrations that are more easily transmitted through glass.

However, laminated glass is typically considered a high-end window feature, so adding it can bump up the cost of a window replacement project. For a laminated insert on a standard double pane window, you can expect to spend around $950. For that price, in addition to high-quality soundproofing, you’ll also get safety features, since laminated glass is typically much more difficult to shatter than standard glazing. Triple pane windows get you most of the soundproofing benefits of laminated glass for a much lower price, but unless you live in an exceptionally noisy area (think next to the train tracks or across from an airport), double pane windows should do the job just fine." >>> https://modernize.com/home-ideas/30455/best-windows-for-sound-reduction ............ and this is a website that sells such windows..https://www.soundproofwindows.com/ .

https://www.ojinc.com/how-does-insulation-reduce-noise/ This is very important. Also, there are 3 things you need to know about spray foam insulation that people seem prone to use in their house walls. It is causing alot of people to walk away from that type of product in large amounts in our area, and with good reason. Rolled insulation in the walls(use 2x6 rather than 2 x 4 studs, so you have MORE room for insulation in between the studs and also have an extra wide step in the foundation for the stone or brick exterior in new construction, to give you the maximum wall insulation behind your exterior veneer). There is a product called SOUND BOARD. Some use it in interior walls to create a sound proof room, such as in apartment buildings or hotels. Others use it in bedrooms near a living area. Check into it if you are interested.. but You can also use a thicker insulation/foil board on your exterior walls behind the brick or stone if your foundation is a bit wider than typical, and may do as much or more good if you have to choose one or the other..... This will help alot near an airport.

Back to spray foam insulation: A new brick home construction was one year old. The new owners returned in the early twilight hours, to see smoke coming from the windows...Lightening had struck due to t-storms, moving through in the area and an electrical fire began...The home was all spray foam insulated/ attic included...and what happened>> The spray foam insulation MELTED over all the contents in the house. The house would not have been a total loss, but the fact that the spray foam insulation melted throughout the house, there was nothing to salvage. Also, it creates such a seal, that a house does not breathe properly and some are worrying about moisture/mold issues. Finally, it is camouflaging termite damage in homes, rendering it much less visible than it should be with rolled insulation.

And, Radiant barrier. This article disputes the insulation noise quality of it, but knowing that it was installed beneath a new metal standing seam roof,---(such a roof material is not well suited for those that have multiple foundation offsets, bumpouts, gables, hips, ridges and dormers at all, but for a straight line/ranch style it is ideal, with minimum offsets in foundation or roof pitch)--- above the deck(prior roof was asphalt shingles), beneath the metal in existing construction on a single story home... After living in the house for 25 years, with the radiant barrier being the only upgrade besides the ss metal roof, you will not hear the rain falling outside, with the windows closed, unless it is hitting the windows due to wind direction. Before, one could hear the rain as it moved across the roof from east to west or north to south, at onset. Now, if it is dark outside, the drapes are closed, it can rain and you cannot hear it at all. It's the darndest thing. Now, that said, also, going from a charcoal gray asphalt shingle roof(25 year wty, quality shingles) to a standing seam metal roof, the inside average temperature without a/c or heating on in summer and winter, is 10 degrees cooler in the summer and 10 degrees warmer in the winter. So when they tell you that certain light to medium colors reflect the heat, they are accurate in that.

It seems that if you can install a metal roof, with radiant barrier, batt insulation in the walls exterior and interior, sound fiber board, exterior plywood sheets over studs, with a high quality wall board insulation(Not that UV guard stuff)behind your exterior veneer, your home will be all it can with regards to the noisy location.

There is an approach that I haven't tried but have a client who actually researched this and did it with great success. The trick is to have a double pane, but the outside pane is a different thickness than the inner pane. I think I have that right. Been a couple years ago. Perhaps some others have heard of this approach? I have to see if I can find that article he sent me on this topic. They lived near a railroad track and it completely solved their noise problem. Still had some vibration but they could tolerate that.

Here is link on this https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=window+pane+with+thicker+glass+and+thinner+glass+for+noise+reduction&qpvt=window+pane+with+thicker+glass+and+thinner+glass+for+noise+reduction&FORM=IGRE

I had it a bit wrong, but you will see how this works. Hope that helps!

Redsilver has made incorrect statements.

We are very noise sensitive. He are using Anderson and paid $200 a window for a few windows to be sound mitigating which is the varying thickness of glass. Spray foam is very good for sound mitigation also. 2x6 walls are good.

As a general rule, thermal insulation and air sealing make for a quiet house but it doesn't always work that way. Foam board is great thermal but not great for sound. Siding can help with sound but does nothing for thermal.

What you really want to do is look at the frequencies coming in. I am thinking airplane noise is generally very low. Low is the hardest and generally requires mass. With good windows, the wall becomes an entry point so don't forget about them.

My old house was on a 4 lane road with tractor trailers going by all the time. I replaced my old windows with double hung dual pane foam filled windows and the noise reduction was amazing.

I use triple paned for clients on busy streets or anywhere where outside noise is na issue they work very well but in Canada double paned are the norm and they do work not bad but that extra pane makes a huge difference.

I have triple pane Marvin Ultimate windows. It cuts the sound from dual pane a little better but it not anywhere close to what I thought it would be. But my energy bills have gone down by 40%-50%. I found out that their are soundproof windows. Lots of $$$$$$$$ and it not only the windows but the surrounding walls that may transmit the sound inside the home. So in my case, it could be the walls are where the sound is leak into the home.