Didn,t you post this on another thread a few months ago ? I think someone from the Cub Cadet Forum advised you of your problem . I would 1st check the axle keys on the rear wheels . If not Wheely boy probably has the answer !

This is the first post of any kind in this forum. I have given thought to the axle keys but that would happen as I start taking the trans axle out. I am not sure how to reach Wheely boy so I could use some help there also. Thank you for your comments.

Well when you don't have a clue how to solve someones problem I believe in making them believe that it could be worse.

Hi wheely boy, I originally posted about an issue concerning a Toro lx420 and my attempts to figure out why it will not move. When I purchased the machine I could see that it had bad drive belts for the variable speed transmission. I bought ROTARY brand belts 11482_and 11483_ and put them on the machine and sort of thought that would be that. Upon testing, there is no movement in either direction ( save for maybe an inch or so where it seems like it is trying to move ). I have double checked the belt numbers I purchased with OEM numbers and they match. The belts are routed correctly as it seems there is only one way that it makes sense that they would be installed. All pulleys and springs seem to be in good order yet there is no movement of the machine. I have made small adjustments to the linkages at the foot operated pedal and the forward-reverse selector and also taken the time to remove the smaller belt and spin the trans axle pulley with an impact wrench and the wheels will turn at that time while off the ground which leads me to believe that the internals of the trans axle are okay.

I have the mower deck off and am tipping the machine on its side with a support under the steering wheel so there is a clear view of everything. As you move the idler pulley to tighten the main drive belt it moves easily and has full range of motion. The axle keys are in place and I have run out of ideas.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated and I thank you in advance for your input.

Respectfully,

John Heck

The LX420 does not have a keyed axle. It is slotted (D or double D shaped) like a lot of older Cub Cadets.

If it was bought used as I am inclined to believe. Someone may have installed the wrong type rims with ones were made for a keyed axle shaft.

Thanks Mule Meat, I will have to take a look at exactly what it is. I did make contact with the original owner and he told me the rear wheels have never been off.

I also have been thinking This tractor was in need of drive belts and since it is a Hydro-static drive-"Could I have put the belts in the wrong position on the double pulley in the back of the machine?" Right now I have the long belt, from the engine, on the bottom part of sheave with the short belt on top. I am thinking this is wrong since I cannot get any movement of the tractor. Do you know for sure if they are wrong?. I just purchased this machine and am not that familiar with it. The heck of it is---Toro does not want owners messing too much so they do not supply information on certain things.

Thank you for your input.

Variable Speed belt (long one) goes on the bottom.

Transmission Drive belt (short one) goes on top.

Not much to a transmission in an LX420.

Raise the rear of the mower off of the ground so that you can see clearly.

Look under the mower at where the shiftier connects to the linkage that goes across to the transmission. Check for damaged or disconnected parts. A helper that can shift the transmission from F to R while you look helps. The threaded block with the pin is where you adjust the shift linkage if the transmission is slipping in F or R.

Follow the linkage across to where it connects to the shaft going into the transmission. Make sure that it moves freely. If not the transmission needs to come out.

If the transmission is removed.

Remove the pulleys.

Take all of the bolts out to separate the case halves (around 13 to 15 of them).

May take a little effort to split the case. But once split.

Check the shifting fork for damage ( use a square) or if it is broken. Careful here for the shiftier has a small detent ball with a spring under it that holds the transmission in gear.

Check that the slip clutch is moving freely. The slip clutch is located between the to forward and reverse gears.

Looking from the back of the transmission. The forward gear is on the right side of the shaft and Reverse is on the left. The gears are the same and can be switched which helps if the transmission slips while in forward gear.

Put it all back together after cleaning everything up and greased.

Got the Popcorn ready for this adventure ! Last time I heard , hydrostatic entailed fluid clutch s and or torque coverter , not gear clusters and synchro,s ?

All kinds of stuff online on this subject matter. Best thing is to find a repair mauual or find a picture like this (from sears site) to help.

Many thanks again Mule Meat. I have considered the adjustment blocks both at the peddle and at the forward-reverse control and taken a couple turns on the threads at both locations just to see if it would make any difference which it did not.It also seems that the directional control rod has ample movement but I did some cleaning in that area just because that is the way it is supposed to be. I have the mowing deck off the tractor and am able to turn it up on its side so there is no problem trying to see the whole underside of the machine. The shift control mechanism seems to be okay with nothing missing or broken. All quick pins are in place. I was once thinking that there may be an internal trans axle problem so I jacked up the tractor with the small belt off of the pulley and spun the trans drive pulley with an impact wrench and the wheels turned as they should so I thought to myself that there is no problem with the inside of the trans axle but as I go on, I am starting to wonder if a removal and teardown would be in order, I just find it terribly strange that this whole thing is happening when everything you can see seems to be in place and functioning one hundred percent. ( I just thought again about what I typed, it sort of means that there could be something unseen causing problems)

I was able to find a service manual on line and had a look at that but did not see anything that jumped out at me as a new revelation,

I did have a thought that I should try taking the small belt off again and then with the tractor in gear, push it across the floor and watch for movement of the pulley. It seems to me that if everything is okay, the pulley would turn. I am just going on seat of the pants logic with this idea but it seems sound, I think this is the next thing I will try just to check out my line of thought.

I would also like to thank Wheely Boy for posting the above schematic drawing, I did find that same article on the a page from which I identified part numbers etc. from parts tree as I was preparing to order belts for the machine,

Once again, I thank everyone for the time spent and ideas presented in trying to help me find out what the heck is going on. By the way-----extra butter on that popcorn

77200 , hold the butter ! As I suspected this is not a hydrostatic tranny as you have previously stated . Rather a simple gear drive transaxle unit . Also the axle shafts are not tapered fit with a key but rather a machined square d style stub with "C" clips retainers . As Mule alluded . Therefore your no drive situation is due to misajustment on the selector rod (external) this controls your forward / neutral / reverse gear cluster alignment . The shaft linkage is threaded allowing incremental adjustment fore and aft . It is under the left rear tire location on the transaxle housing . I would start there . Otherwise you will have to split the clamshell transaxle as Mule advised and visually inspect the gear cluster & clutch assembly . Your shifter fork may also be bent or twisted which often happens or the detent ball may be frozen ( spring loaded ) preventing proper fork alignment . There is a bevel gear and or helical gear and synchro ring on this input shaft all which must align exactly so as to not provide a false neutral situation ( no drive) when tractor weighted applies load . All or any one issue described could be the basic or contributing cause of your issues . Your service manual will provide clear illustration of what I have just advised , All the Best and keep us posted . If your lucky Tom plum our resident tractor guru will join the party to elaborate further Bud !

Sorry if I used the wrong terms to describe a variable speed trans, The trans unit itself looks probably like any other trans, Where the variable speeds come from is the dual sheaved pulley that is driven by the engine and transfers power to the trans pulley by way of a short belt running to a large pulley on top of the trans itself. The speed of belt travel to that trans pulley is governed by the amount of foot peddle application at the time--as I understand it. I am not familiar enough with all this that I would know the proper terms, but merely attempting to describe what the machine has in the way of pulleys and such. As far as a service manual, they show illustrations but when unusual things are happening, provide little information.

I know about the adjustment block on the left side of the tractor and have given it a couple extra threads to give the mechanism just that much more travel.The speed control pedal also has been adjusted slightly for the same reason. I am trying to make the removal of the transaxle the last thing on the list. A person might think that a tractor in which everything was working fine with belts that were worn and cracked would not suddenly (die) with the application of brand new belts. The prior owner stated that he had problems with the spring ( connected to the foot pedal mechanism) in the past. Did not say if it broke or fell off, only that it had been replaced. That spring seems proper and is functioning as it should so I plan to work at covering several suggestions provided hoping that one of the ideas is the real fix.

I sincerely appreciate your input and will use information provided to try and make a difference in the machine. THANKS AGAIN Got a soda with that pop corn?

P.S. Just Goggle Toro lx 420 tranaxle or go directly to the Toro site for comprehensive exploded parts illustration for better clarification of your transmission components . You are correct in that the small belt drives a input shaft with a beveled pinion gear positioned vertically within the top of the casing that meshs with the internal drive gear within the transaxle . Perhaps the pulley is spinning on the splinded shaft ? just a afterthought . I think a Beer may be warranted on this job ! lol.

ssewalk1 Your idea about the shift linkage was right on!!! First thing today I stuck my head under the machine and took a look first. Then I thought I would disconnect it at the shifter and move it into forward then bring the handle to this position and anchor it down while in forward position. It took a little playing around but I fooled with it until I have got forward neutral and reverse. HOORAY!!!! The rod going into the trans was moving but not actually clicking solid into where it should have been. I lubed the rod and moved it back and forth several times to spread the WD40 around.

Looks like we will need doggie bags for that popcorn.

Thanks one more time to all that took interest in my situation. Where would any of us be without friends?

I will not abandon this site just because my problem is over, I already have and plan to supply input where I feel I have something to say. THANKS AGAIN

Awesome Bud , good job and perseverance on your part . Keep that shaft lubed with a good light grade moly grease . Point of further info your Toro is actually manufactured by MTD , so should your pulleys show wear Sears is your cheap source of parts should they maintain operations , as Wheely previously advised . Yep don,t be a stranger and add a personal form of ID. in the future , Cheers !

Glad to hear that you got it going..

Most of the problems with the LX420 transaxle can be traced to one of four things.

Worn gears, Shiftier out of adjustment, stuck shifting fork, Damaged shifting fork.

Like I said. Not much to one on the inside.

PS: Did not resize the pic to make it better to view.

Mule , in this scenario it was the selector linkage that was binding/misadjusted , not allowing alignment of the cluster shaft gears , a prevalent problem with MTD units . The actual gear wear is remote , as a secondary factor the shifter / alignment fork #22 distortion from binding of the clutch is quite common due to marginal lubrication over time .

Right on, ssewalk1 You hit this one out of the park. Right now I have WD40 on the linkage but intend to apply some waterproof grease that I bought to use on my calipers on the car. I thought maybe the lighter lube would creep into places that heavier lube would not.

During this thread, there was mention of how the rear wheels are held on the machine and possible axle key etc. I found that there was a small bolt under the hub cap that held the wheel in place with the help of a couple washers, The axle itself has twin flats on it to make everything turn. Not that this is a big thing but I just wanted to let others know what I found. Meanwhile I trust everyone enjoyed the popcorn. John

John , thanks again for the follow up . Yep caliper grease normally is light grade moly grease , white lithium alternately could be used . Your accertion is correct that the lighter viscosity grease has greater capillary action and will better creep and better protect and surface of the selector linkage.. Further , yes although not shown within the illustration provided by Mule , the bolt will provide the locking of the wheel to the shaft . In some instances the shaft taper and the flat circlip type washers accomplish the same . Depending on which model yr either locking device may be utilized . Again Welcome aboard , lots of fresh popcorn in the cupboard Bud !