Need more information.

Where do you live?

What kind of grass do you have?

What is your watering schedule? How often and for how long do you water?

Have you used any insecticides, herbicides, or fungicides in the past month? If so what did you use?

Thank you for the reply. I live in the Pacific Northwest. I use Scotts Pacific Northwest seed mix;
which is a mix of Perennial Ryegrass and Fine Fescue.

I typically water about 3 times a week for about 30 minutes.

I have not used any insecticides herbicides or fungicides in
the past month. I believe I applied weed
and feed sometime in June.

I'm going to suggest you are watering too frequently and not deep enough, but I would really like gardengal to take a look at the pictures. She's from your area and might have other ideas about the problem.

I would guess as in the other thread that you have creeping bentgrass infestation. This grass may look great on the golf course but not in the residential scenario. Get rid of it with multiple applications of Tenacity and reseeding. Tenacity can harm fine fescue so spray carefully.

Thank you for the helpful insight, gardengal48. I will definitely cut down on the amount of
watering that I do and begin to transition over to organic fertilizing. After I use up this last bag of grass seed, I
will contact local providers for grass seed as well.

Thank you, mishmash.
I have heard of the product Tenacity, but have not purchased it. I will have to do some more research. Thank you for your input.

Maybe I can save you some money on organic fertilizer. If you look at the ingredients on the bag of most organic fertilizers you will see they contain high protein grains, beans, seeds, and nuts. The list includes soybean, wheat, corn, corn gluten meal, and alfalfa. These are often fortified with animal byproducts like feather meal, fish meal, bone meal, blood meal, and poultry litter. The important point is the high protein values of these materials. Another important point is the speed of release for these materials. This element of organics is harder to quantify, but generally blood meal is considered "hot," while feather meal is considered icy cold. What that means is if you get too much blood meal all at one time, you can burn and kill plants. Straight poultry litter has limits, too; however, the rest of the items on the list have no practical limit to their application. The impractical limit is when you have smothered the grass with the sheer poundage of product. The product will not burn the plants, but the lack of sunlight and air circulation will kill the plants. Generally the fertilizers are heavy in ground grains and sometimes fortified with blood meal. Of the grains, corn gluten meal and soybean are the richest in protein. Those are followed by alfalfa, wheat, corn and even coffee grounds. Protein contains nitrogen molecules and will get processed into plant food by the microbes living in the soil.

With all that in mind, what I do is use straight alfalfa pellets (aka rabbit or chinchilla chow) at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Soybean meal is prohibitively expensive in my part of Texas, but alfalfa and corn are easy to get. You can find these materials at your local feed stores. Call ahead first to get availability and compare pricing.

The application rate for the grains is 15-20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Grains almost always take 3 full weeks to show the fertilizer effect. The reason for this "slow release" effect is that's how long it takes for the biology in the soil to process the raw food into plant food.

Here is a picture posted by mrmumbles several years ago showing how well organic fertilizers work. He tossed a handful of alfalfa pellets onto his zoysia lawn, and this is what happened.

The fertilizer was applied in mid May and the picture was taken in mid June. You can clearly see the improved color, density, and growth of the grass from the alfalfa. So this stuff works. If you let the lawn go without fertilizer and it thins out like mrmumbles did, then weeds can creep into the thin spots. But if you keep a routine of organic fertilizer going, you should certainly minimize the thin spots. Having said that, zoysia is a sod forming turf while your grasses are bunch type grasses. Bunch grasses do not form dense turf unless you have seeded up to a dense turf.

And any biosolid - something like Milorganite - can be used as well. Milorganite is not common in this area but the City of Tacoma makes a similar product - TAGRO - that is carried in many places throughout the area.

Thanks for the information, dchall_san_antonio. I live here in Portland so I will definitely
call around and see if I can locate some alfalfa pellets and give it a shot. I appreciate your insight.

Thank you as well, gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9). It’s funny because I still have an unopened
bag of Milorganite here in the shed that I can use. I watched some videos on youtube from the
Lawncare Nut last year and he recommended the Milorganite. I just got stubborn and went the “Scott’s”
way.

I didn't mention biosolids, but yes, they work, too. Houston makes Hou-actinite. Austin has Dillo-Dirt. San Antonio has Alamo-Gro. Hou-actinite is a clone of Milorganite. Dillo-Dirt and Alamo-Gro are fully composted biosolids. Those start with class II or level II (whatever) just like Milorganite, but instead of kiln drying it, they mix it with phone books (maybe not anymore) and other materials and turn it like regular commercial compost. They look and perform like compost. So while Hou-actinite would be expected to perform well, like Milorganite, the others would be expected to perform poorly, like compost. My understanding is that the Hou-actinite product is available by in railroad car quantities for commercial or farm use. For the rest of us it is found mixed in with other organic fertilizers but not bagged individually for small yards.

it looks just like the moss in my yard. I am in the Pacific Northwest also. Moss is everywhere. Moss out does the trick. i have learned over the years to put down Moss killer before the first spring fertilizer every year,, or it goes nuts.

This is an old post, but, just for the record, there's no moss in any of the pictures.

While moss is an extremely common occurence in PNW lawns, I agree with floral that there is no moss showing the in OP's photos. That is a dead grass and in this area, I would guess Poa annua.