It’s the end of the season and the tree is going to be dropping its leaves anyway, so I wouldn’t worry about it too much. I would be a bit concerned about that circling root though. It may girdle the tree at some point, so you might want to inspect the roots and correct it if necessary/possible. I’ve never grown a tree in a container so I’ll leave the repotting question to others.

If it is powdery mildew (and I can't see clearly enough to tell), then affected foliage cannot be reversed or cleared up. All any spraying will do is prevent the fungus from spreading to unaffected foliage. But you want to be careful applying anything other than water to JM leaves. They are very sensitive and respond to almost any common pesticidal spray with a phytotoxic reaction, even something as innocuous as insecticidal soap. And as stated above, leaf issues at this time of year are not really anything to get excited about as it will be dropping all of them soon. And absolutely no need to clip off any brown tips!!

I repot my JM's as soon as I purchase them (or shortly thereafter) into the 5-1-1 mix as I don't want the more frequent watering requirements of the gritty mix and JM's dislike their soil drying out completely so the 5-1-1 works best for me. And I grow a LOT of maples in containers so watering is a big chore during the growing season!! But others do grow them successfully in the gritty mix. And I would definitely upsize the container. I only repot mine more frequently if they are very small to start with....otherwise I plant them in a container that will fully accommodate them until it comes time to root prune and refresh/replace the soil so I allow for at least 3 years of root growth. I would deal with the kinking or circling root as necessary at that time.

And as I mentioned in response to your previous post, I doubt that is a Bloodgood. It looks more like a seedling JM. Can you see any graft union? Bloodgood should never produce any green leaves, they are the wrong size and shape and it doesn't have green bark either.

Yes I do see a graft scar and I don't like it at all. Considering air-layering it right above the scar next Spring and I wonder how much of a set back that would be for bothe the root stock and for the rooted tree above it. I would then have two trees though.

I had a mishap while posting pictures yesterday from my phone. It seems to only work from a computer when I am trying to post pics.

I applied H2O2 on the leaves again and then, I tried to speed it up by rubbing off the white powder with my thumbs. I had to be careful because sometimes it tears the tips of some leaves while doing so.

Here is a shot of yesterday before cleaning the leaves 9/10/2018:

And this morning 10/10/2018, the bud is still pushing growth and the new leaves look pretty nice:

I got more fir bark and Turface ready so I can transplant the tree, maybe tomorrow, it will be very cloudy.

Anybody knows what sort of Acer this is? To summarize: wine colored new leaves, some older green leaves (way above the graft), green trunk and branches.

Actually the green leaves seem to have a different shape than those red ones here. It is really weird. I'm wondering if this is a red-leaved tree that has been hybridized by the root stock and produced green leaves.

See comments here about identifying JM's. Can you post a photo of the graft union or the 'scar' as you describe it? I am not convinced that this is not just a seedling JM........

I think it's a red palmatum. An Acer Palmatum Atropurpureum. I was reading the 5th post at this thread and it seems right Atropurpureum .

Yes it does have a graft it's rather large and there is a noticeable difference of trunk diameter under and above it.

I'm at work I'll take a pic of that graft tomorrow.

Pics of the graft from both sides:

And just an update of the bud on that "healthy" branch:

This tree is not waking up buds like the others. Kind of worried. I pruned the top 50% off, right above the two main forks..

Need a better pic. I'd get rid of the "Japanese Clover'. It's a serious weed and likes disturbed soil, that's why you see it in nurseries. It's Latin name is Oxalis.

yes Mike I removed the clover when I repotted the tree fall '18 (into gritty mix). Its trunk is turning brown in some spots and it was all green before Winter. Put it in the sun on an upper shelf on the balcony last week, where the only sunny spots are and this may have caused sun scald? I am worried.
I'll take a picture of it tomorrow morning and post it.

Here it is. It has a green spot that remains but before winter it was almost all green except for some upper branches. AAAAAHHHHH!!!

Boy.......you didn't leave many budded stems, did you? I'd be interested to see how this looks in another month or so.

I would not worry too much. I do not see any die backs except right at the top. Protect it from freezing and cold dry wind. Bark naturally darkens as it ages. You can do a quick scratch test somewhere near the top. If it is green underneath then you still stand a good chance it will be OK. Bud growth is always delayed after a major chop. In bonsai major chops can be even more severe than this as long it is healthy and the usual winter care is applied.

I had been staring at that interesting japanese maple version of mr. Pinocchio at the base :))

:) uhh...
gardengal48,

I may have pruned too hard... or too close to the terminal buds. I was going for leaving only one node with buds with bonsai ramification (no trifurcations and only one node after each bifurcation) on each branch so a lot of the branches had to go. We'll see...

tropicofcancer,

I will definitely do a scratch test! I didn't think about that, thanks! That J root, ahh what a dilemma whether or not to leave it on the tree. This is a picture of the roots when I re-potted it last October. I think I decided to leave it on for now because it looked like the tree didn't have so great of a root system and it could use the extra root to get healthier. https://st.hzcdn.com/simgs/be92d8670bcf47aa_9-0956/home-design.jpg
I haven't fertilized yet, wondering if that could help or if it is a risk (watering twice a week for the next couple of weeks at 1/4 tbsp per gallon of water?).

I scratched the trunk right under one of the forks. It was green under. Then I scratched low on the trunk almost where it hits the ground and it wasn't green.

This tree died by the way, for sake of completion of this thread...