This is interesting. I am not an experienced gardener and my challenge with beets has not been germination, it's been getting them to get to the bulb stage without splitting or getting woody. I have come to the realization that beet greens are among my favorite greens, so I am also trying to figure out how to plan so that I get both the desired amount of greens and roots.

Have you tried other varieties?

Annie, I have tried and had good results with Detroit Red. I've grown the yellow ones and the white-and-red striped Chiogga and I just don't like the taste. Bull's Blood did well for me one year. Also, when I had deeper soil, I enjoyed growing Cylindria. I think I have done Gladiator, as well, which matures a couple days earlier than most.

I'm not sure what makes the bulb split unless maybe it's growth that's too fast. And maybe the woody root signals it's trying to grow in too much warmth. Beets are something that grow best in cool conditions, as are peas, which confuses me since the seeds of both need warm soil to germinate well. I wonder if maybe these crops should be more of a fall crop than a spring crop. Maybe someone will come along that knows the answers better than I. I don't usually have problems with either but now that I've said that, I'll probably experience it, seems to be the way of it somehow...

Maybe you're planting your seeds too deep ? They only need to be just barely covered.

While I start most of the hardy veg seeds such as peas, broad beans, spring onions, around the beginning of March, beets fall just between the hardies and tender seeds such as frenchies, tomatoes and curcubits. Beets do not appreciate sitting around in cold, damp soil so in the UK at least, I hold off on direct sowing (outside)until the first week of April (when I also start the tomato seeds under glass

There are also F1 beets (Kestrel in the UK for example) which are not compound seeds (monogerm) and are also resistant to bolting. Might be worth looking at these as well as old favourites such as Boltardy.

What type of soil are you planting in? I can grow beets year round where I live and the only problem I can think might be lack of water for germination. When I plant for a summer crop I water the seed bed with a wand every morning and night to keep them moist for germination. They are planted with drip tape but they require more water than the other vegetables so after they come up I still give them a good soaking with the wand in the evenings.Uneven moisture will cause the splitting.

Your germination seems likes it's on par. There's a reason they recommend planting to 1 inch apart and then thinning to 4 inches apart, and there's a reason 1 seed pod contains multiple plants. Your looking at about a 40-60% germination rate without factoring in the multiple plants from 1 seed pod.

With that said, It does help to soak any hard shelled seed. As far as the frugal part goes, I have my own method, but to keep things simple offset transplant the ones that come up as multiples, along side your rows where there's gaps.

1-2 inch spacing will yield golf ball- tennis ball size at best. 4 inch spacing will yield football size. Detroit red is a good strain.

To answer the OP yes, I always have trouble getting beet seed to germinate. In fact, when they do, it is usually strangely after many weeks. Maybe I bury them too deep. You MUST soak the seeds. Planting close to the surface, as they like to be planted, makes it easy for them to dry out. I do a winter crop, planting in October, and it is still pretty warm for me then, so drying is a real threat. You must mist EVERY day to keep them moist. But beyond that, my strategy is just to plant 2 inches apart, and then transplant when they are an inch high, in order to get 4-inch spacing. I guess 50% germination is the norm for me, when they do decide to germinate. So that works. I like the idea of putting a board on top. I've put a big plastic sheet over mine, but that didn't seem to help much. Probably because it allows for heating, and too much air underneath, and evaporative losses.

I have considered soaking the seeds until they germinate, and carefully transplanting those tiny seedlings. I may do that next year. I get a good crop of beets every year, but it's usually after a lot of effort and hand-wringing.

Has anyone here saved their own beet seeds. SeedSavers chart says it's a biennial plant, so it doesn't sound easy. I need to put that on my list of things to try. I'm wondering if the germination rate might be better.