Software
Houzz Logo Print
david_perfette

Some tips for spraying lacquer

7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago

I'm building a large kitchen island. The cabinet has a beaded face frame that I will be coloring with an oil based glaze and finishing with Sherwin Williams' pre-catalyzed lacquer. Other than some experimenting a few years back, I have little experience spraying lacquer. I have an expensive Asturo spray gun that I bought a bunch of years ago so I figure it's about time I build the skill. I've been reading and watching videos which have provided most of the how-to info I need but there's still a few specifics not covered that I was hoping to get some tips on.

I'm going to color and spray the door panels before assembling them due to wood expansion and shrinkage, but I'm also wondering if it would make sense to do that with all the parts instead of assembling the whole thing and then spraying it. For example, I would think it would be easier to spray the maple plywood before assembling the cabinet box. Is there anything I'm missing here? Is there any benefit to constructing the whole thing and then spraying?

What about the beaded face frame? Any tips on spraying it that would avoid the lacquer pooling in the channels of the beading? In the main video, I use for reference, the guy appears to put a fairly heavy coat on the flat, large surface door he's finishing, but I'm thinking of trying a more fine, atomized, spray technique, and using more coats to build up the final finish.

Lastly, how hard should the finish feel before it has cured? To put my mind at ease while I'm doing it I'd like to have an idea of what it should feel like between coats so I know whether or not I'm doing it right.

Thanks in advance.

Comments (14)

  • PRO
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Join the Cabinet Door and Refinishers Chatroom on FB. I hope you mean using a catalyzed finish.

  • 7 years ago

    It's pre-cat because Sherwin Williams adds the catazlyzing agent at the store, after it's been ordered.

  • PRO
    7 years ago

    Not for beginners. Get all the advice and help possible!

  • 7 years ago

    That's great, thanks! Your first two comments relieve a lot of worry. The first time I experimented with it, I was too concerned with it going on too heavy that I made it far too misty, and it was a hot day, so I'm pretty sure it was drying before it even hit the wood surface. A day later when I tried it again I think i hadn't let the glaze, on the new sample piece, dry long enough. Or, I should have used the lacquer sealer instead of the shellac sealer, before spraying the top coat. Many months later the test pieces finally got hard. Either way, I was too impatient and didn't read the instructions well enough.

  • PRO
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Patience is a must with paints.

    Keep doing samples until perfected. Take notes.

    To prevent pooling, Spray lightly, let dry then another coat. repeat until desired look. It's a safer way.Any drip or pool starting. then stop. adjust to less amount or pressure coming out.

    Always keep nozzle clean. If start to spatter, stop. fix nozzle or mixture

    Once all assembled. Light coat over in long sweeps continous across. Have mixture mixed enough to do all to keep all the same.

    Do in a spray booth with ventilation & appropriate air mask with cartriages.

    Outside is risky due to dust, bugs,etc.

    Do not touch until completely dry.

    Do not heavily handle until completely cured. Takes days.

    I have many years airbrushing.

    Not easy.

    Good luck;)


    David Perfette thanked Business_Name_Placeholder
  • 7 years ago

    With the improvements in water based finishes over the years there is no need to use laquer paint. Stoped using solvent based more than ten years ago. I only use an Italian water base 2K poly (which to me is the best out there) so I don't have a lot of experience with all the domestic brands but I do see them at the trade shows. If your using sherwin Williams I would ask them what they recommend.

    David Perfette thanked jdesign_gw
  • 7 years ago

    I sprayed a door chest that I built for my sister twelve years ago with a water based spray finish. I liked it. It tended to build up in corners etc. Made for extra work to clean them out. I never did quite get that down well but I liked it. It was easy and I could spray it in my basement.

  • 7 years ago

    12 years ago is not toda. BMW's and Mercedes use water based paints now. At a trade show I believe it was Sherwin Wialliams that had a wall of sprayed samples and a contest for everyone to guess which was water based. All pros no one got it right. Laquer is old technology and problematic. We spray everyda.y. The product we use just works. No issues. Never had problems pooling in corners. Just got in three hundred gallons. Would not be buying that amount if wasn't the best.


    David Perfette thanked jdesign_gw
  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    I typically agree with jdesign...

    However, I started spraying with lacquer, and though I no longer spray with lacquer, it is still a great place to start spraying. It is incredibly forgiving, with new coatings chemically absorbed into previous coatings.

    It is hard to mess up a lacquer coat and easy to fix when you do. I don't know of any other coating that takes spot refinishes so well (there may be one, but I haven't worked with it).

    If you were spraying in your house or every day then I would definitely avoid lacquer and as soon as you are proficient you should move away from it. But it is just easy to do well.

    There are a couple of water based products I prefer now, but when I mess up, I still miss lacquer. With lacquer you can route a finished piece and just touch up the lacquer to end up with same quality.

    David Perfette thanked bry911
  • 7 years ago

    Jdesign and bry, is there a waterbased spray top coat you could recommend? Definitely something to consider. If I do that though, I'll first have to seal the oil based glaze with dewaxed shellac. I guess that shouldn't create any kind of problems?

  • 7 years ago

    I have limited experience with domestic products. I would talk to Sherman Williams pro finishes as a start. I use ICA from Italy only have for more than ten years. Their primer, top cot, clear, glaze and tint. Like I said at trade shows all the companies are there are the products are looking better and better. i never had the need to try something different so I can't say.

  • 7 years ago

    Yeah, I just spoke with a Sherwin rep. He basically told me that none of their spray products would be an option for me for couple of reasons. He said he can't even sell me the pre-cat hi bild lacquer as it requires an actual shop for it to be sprayed in. Said you can't use this stuff outside in your driveway or back yard except maybe if you're living out in a rural area. He said if a neighbor complained it could lead to some serious issues. He also said you need a lot more psi than my hvlp system is designed for. That includes the waterbased ones as well. Interestingly, the two how-to videos I was referencing both used that pre cat sherwin product in their driveways. in one of them the two guys demoing weren't even wearing masks. I'm going to call Homestead finishing where i purchased the sprayer, as well as finishes for it, way back when.

  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Try SW Ken Aqua Plus. It is a bit harder to spray but is a better product than pre-cat lacquer.

    You can also try a more rural SW. They don't stock pre-cat in many urban areas but often have plenty of supply in rural areas. Every classic car enthusiast is spraying lacquer (for reds, blues and yellows) in his garage, they have to be getting it somewhere. The neighbor thing is a bit silly though, where do you think a shop's spray booth vents to?