Rooting Cuttings Hypothesis

briana_2006

7 years ago

Hello All -

Just wondering if there is any merit to any of these ideas below when considering maximizing rooting success - specifically hardwood cuttings.

I have read a cutting 4-6 inches in length and not for example 6-9 inches in length is ideal.
questions:

Is it of advantage to rooting success rate to put only a single node or not more than 2 nodes (depending on node spacing) of the 4-6 inch cutting below the surface of the medium while the remaining nodes are left to leaf out above the surface? Hypothesis: Putting limited nodes below the surface limits the possible rooting points and if not already done so by the plant will conserve cutting energy by forcing the plant to limit root formation to a single point or two? Also, is there any merit to the cutting translocating sugars and hormones etc needed for forming roots from elsewhere in the cutting more effectively / efficiently and concentrating them to the 1-2 nodes below the surface where perhaps the plant "can tell" conditions are favorable for forming roots (i.e. dark, moist, airy (good rooting mix)?
Does anyone know of any literature source that speaks to the optimal concentration of IBA/IAA & NAA for root formation as a function of plant species?
Would gel rooting hormone like clonex not be as effective as liquid rooting hormone (like Dip N Grow or Vitagrow) because a) it seems to be at much higher concentration 0.3% of rooting hormones and b) if it is in a cellulose matrix that does not wash away well when watering then the high concentration of hormones in constant contact with the cutting may at first promote and then later hinder (and stop) root formation and kill the cutting? -- unless the species being rooted roots optimally at the higher concentration - see #2 above.

Thanks!
Brian

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Comments (5)

User
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
Not sure where you're getting your "4 to 6 inches and no longer" for hardwood cuttings. That sounds more like a recommendation for softwood cuttings. Hardwood cuttings are often 8"-10"+.

Dirt and Heuser's "The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation" lists IBA concentrations for many species and IBA/NAA for a few.
briana_2006
Original Author
7 years ago
Thanks for the reference:

https://www.amazon.com/Reference-Manual-Woody-Plant-Propagation/dp/1604690046

If hardwood cuttings are 8-10" - is there an optimal # of nodes below / above the surface for rooting success?

Thanks, Brian
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uncle molewacker z9b Danville CA (E.SF Bay)
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
I successfully rooted a couple of fig varieties this past January. I used a domed chamber and rooting powder with coco coir as well as generic potting soil. The heat mat was set to 78F.

The wood was 3 or more nodes and between 4 to 6 inches long. (One or two nodes below and above the soil) I had 100 percent success with the thicker, larger diameter wood at 1/2" or more. Zero success with thin wood.

Good luck and please share what you do and learn.
bluemoonlight
7 years ago
Two to three nodes in medium, if you leave 3 nodes above the medium and the roots are not strong enough to support the 3 actively growing buds the cuttings may not make it !

I prefer to at least have two nodes in medium.

I did successfully rooted one node cutting in medium and no node above but it is not always 100% success.

Good luck rooting and keep us posted
hoosierbanana
7 years ago
Hey Brian, sorry I missed this before.

What I do is not worry about nodes, roots most often form at the callus on the bottom of the cutting. I trim them to just below the bottom node because the pith below has a tendency to cause the bottom to rot and prevents healing over, then pre root (callus) them in coco coir or 1/4" pine bark that is moist and kept at about 80 degrees fahrenheiht until a good callus forms and I see signs of root emergence (little guys poking out, cracks in the bark, a good flare at the base). Then wrap the top in parafilm to keep them from drying out (that's probably why longer cuttings fail for some people), and pot them no deeper than half the depth of the container. There is usually a perched water table at the bottom of the container that can rot the callus... and when the bottom of the cutting is at the bottom of the container what happens is the roots end up going upwards, which is not especially problematic with figs but bad form in general.

I don't use rooting hormone, they don't need it. Hope that helps.