Belt sander. Prayer. They're junk. Sorry...................that's truth.

I put my stained teak coffee table in th swimming pool and after a day or two it was not stained. I have since done this again and I love how it took all stains out.

the Build quality seems really sturdy and good. im ask about repainting and staining the surface. Mainly need design advice. Would Chalk paint work? And I don’t think I’ll be putting it in the pool haha. Thanks tho! That’s so funny

It works. I was told about how to remove stains at a furniture store. My table is an outdoor RH teak table that I have had for about ten years.

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I would try chalk paint. I know they say no priming required but I still would. My daughter just got done using Rustoleum Chalked. She used Rustoleum top coat instead of wax- supposed to be harder.

Thanks Molly! And would just the top being white look okay? Keeping the legs the original color?

I would suggest posting pictures of the space it will be used in and people will weigh in on direction for the color.

Sand first to see if you can get out the stains/discoloration. Any wash is not going to cover them up. See how it looks after it's sanded to decided on what product should be used.

I would browse on line (Annie Sloan, etc) for chalk painted tables. I think what Jan was saying is not that it’s not sturdy, but that the wood used by Pottery Barn isn’t the best and is not meant for sanding and refinishing with stain. I’d for sure do chalk paint which doesn’t require sanding. But be careful if you are doing white- they say you don’t need primer, but in my daughters case she didn’t prime first, and depending on the wood the tannins can bleed through. Yours would look nice with some distressing. If you haven’t done chalk paint, depending on where you are there are stores that offer classes and ideas.

My advice is skip the chalk paint! If that's the look you're going for, try General Finishes "milk paint". Same type of look, much better product. You can also use General Finishes clear in matte for protection (or satin, etc.).

I agree with Jan about the sander, although maybe an orbital, rather than an actual belt sander.

But probably start with an 80 grit paper.

Here is some basic info: https://rootsandwingsfurniture.com/blog/2017-5-16-the-difference-between-milk-paint-and-chalk-paint/

You might want to try turning the table over and sanding the bottom (unseen) part of the table top. Do a small section and see how the wood takes to sanding. If it looks ok, try some stain on the sanded area and see how the wood takes the stain. You may need wood conditioner before staining. I don't know what your color schemes are but a light-medium gray stain might look nice (it's hard to tell the stain color from my laptop). It's a pretty table and it seems you have gotten a deal on it. What ever you decide to do to the top, go over with poly, at least 3 coats. Poly and paint will need to cure completely before using. Agree with above poster to start with 80 grit sandpaper using a palm sander. Sand with the grain of the wood.

I'd forget about paint altogether. These are what they are. The last thing you want is a painted top. Sand the heck out of it. Satin finish poly. More prayer.There's a reason they are 1100 bucks of style and no real substance........So...with kids in a kitchen, or anyone in a kitchen the crayon or red wine is an "oh good luck with THAT"

• Dust often using a soft, dry cloth.
• Wipe up spills immediately.
• To protect the finish, do not apply abrasives or household cleaners.

Thanks. However, I strongly doubt I can match the finish currently on it. It looks to be almost like a vinyl paint top layer and textured raw wood underneath. That’s why I initially thought of paint. Why do you say forget paint?

Can u post a picture? You will get better responses.

On another thread here, Beth H recommended that someone use milk paint on unfinished wood paneling. She showed a ceiling that she had painted with it. I am not sure how the paint would hold up to daily use on a table top, but perhaps it can be sealed after it is painted. I hope that Beth H sees this. She is a font of knowledge about refinishing, repainting, and staining furniture and wood pieces.

The reality check here regarding any "wood" dining table for every day "casual" settings.

These take nearly as much abuse as your kitchen counter tops. Would you paint those?

That's the problem .

A real farm table is a different thing. It's through and through real deal.

We do a lot of table tops and always advise against paint; as Jan mentioned. I always explain, it's going to chip, period! We use washes and different stains to get the look people are looking for and to try to cover areas. Then it's five coats of sealer. We have yet to paint a top.

Thanks for the advice. When you say washes, what’s the difference between that and paint? (Sorry I’m new to this) What do you recommend for a white wash?

I would go with the sanding, and see if the wood looks OK underneath the current finish. Then restain with a dark gray stain. Or maybe go a completely different direction and file the top with some cool Moroccan type tiles.....

I put chalk paint on Pottery Barn stools, and haven't had an issue with chipping. You could paint just the top, and get a piece of glass made for the tabletop to better protect the finish.

The wash top table from Furniture Reborn looks great. Is a wash done with watered down latex paint?

It will be a lot of work but I would suggest sanding down to bare wood and refinishing in whatever way would go best with your house decor. You might have to sand the top a bit more than the rest to get rid of any deep seated stains. It's a pretty table. Good luck with it!

catliesl I use chalk paints, and yes it is the paint used on the piece watered down. There are multiple techniques to achieve the same results.

Have you considered a subtle stencil on the top? It could provide coverage and add a nice element.