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Moving from 6b to 4a

Hello. I am hoping to tap your collective expertise today regarding moving roses.


My husband and I are in the process of buying our retirement home. The house is located about one hour north of Minneapolis/St. Paul, on the St. Croix River. Presently I live and garden in western KY in the Ohio River Valley. I expect to have a lot of questions before we complete our move in May 2020, but today I want to get your views regarding whether or not there is an advantage to moving established plants vs. buying new, or taking cuttings this fall. Of course my main concern is which method is most conducive to winter hardiness. The roses in question are considered to be hardy in zone 4. Thank you.

Comments (6)

  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    I would be transplanting in the spring. I have a couple of established roses that are hard to replace ( Barden’s Etienne and Umbra) and a couple other favorites that may be less reliably hardy: Erinnerung an Brod and Desiree Parmentier. I know I could root cuttings, but planting tiny babies next spring seems pretty risky.

    I will cross-post. Thank you.

  • 7 years ago

    Part of a sentence, about hail, got eaten so I edited to add it in.

    I have a couple of established roses that are hard to replace ( Barden’s Etienne and Umbra) and a couple others that favorites that may be less reliably hardy: Erinnerung an Brod and Desiree Parmentier.

    I would probably move the ones that are hard to replace or find again. And with those that are less reliably hardy, it's difficult to know what your garden's microclimate is until you've been there a bit. Good luck!

    Deborah MN zone 4 thanked beckysharp Reinstate SW Unconditionally
  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    I’ve moved Campfire, Sir Thomas Lipton, The Hunter, Wasagaming, J.P. Connell, Bill Reid & Morden Centennial. All have survived.

    In all cases it was easier to move them when they were smaller and less established. It’s was a lot of work to dig out the established ones, plus the new rose hole had to be ready. The root systems were lengthy, much wider than the plant. It was hard to keep any soil intact, most fell off. I planted immediately, watered very well, and kept well watered for at least a few weeks, if not more.


    For some I cut the blooms and upper green growth off if I didn’t get enough root system to support it. Took about a full season for the rose to recover, and growth returned to normal the following year. Planting the crown a little bit deeper helps too in colder climates.


    I’ve had no luck rooting cuttings, but if you can I strongly suggest it, it can’t hurt to have a few extra back ups. Buying new potted is nice too because they can stay in pots until the planting site is ready.

    Deborah MN zone 4 thanked prairie_northrose (3b north of Calgary AB, Canada)
  • 7 years ago

    Thank you, prairie-northrose, this is exactly the information I am looking for. The two roses that I want to move are large, established plants that are difficult to replace. I will try to root cuttings and also attempt to dig them up next spring. I can have the new bed ready, so they will be out of the ground only a few days. I will need to cut the top growth back to transport. Perhaps if I soak them well before digging I can keep more soil intact. Then I plan to wrap the root ball in burlap - sort of treat them like trees. Thanks again for your response.

  • 7 years ago

    Good call. If the soil happens to fall off, it might also work to hold the roots in water until ready for transport, in something such as large tote bin.

    I’ve not tried it myself but grafting/budding may also be another back up option.

    Deborah MN zone 4 thanked prairie_northrose (3b north of Calgary AB, Canada)
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