I have a ficus elastica that gets white spots like those. I have been attributing it to my hard water. I use rain water whenever possible and flush the pot when I water. I haven't had any other problems. Could it be that your water source changes when your plant comes inside?

As for dropping leaves, I would guess it's related to the move inside. Ficus can be cranky about that.

The leaf loss is likely related to the sudden reduction of light levels and/or the reduction in humidity that usually accompanies the move indoors in fall. The spots are a normal part of the plant's morphology. The regularly spaced white dots arranged with loose symmetry inside and along leaf margins are often misidentified as pests or glands. They are called lithocysts and contain crystals (like a small stone or pebble) of calcium carbonate or calcium oxylate, which are called cystoliths.

The lower light levels indoors and over-watering often work together to cause a physiological disorder called oedema, which occurs when the plant's internal water pressure becomes so high it pushes sap through the leaf cuticle (skin) via the pathway of least resistance, which in this case would be through the lithocysts.

Something I wrote about Oedema follows, and you should be able to infer what the remedy is by what you read below. If you have questions or need additional input - don't hesitate.

Oedema is a physiological disorder that can affect
all plants. It occurs when the plant takes up more water than it can
rid itself of via the process of transpiration. The word itself means
'swelling', which is usually the first symptom, and comes in the form
of pale blisters or water-filled bumps on foliage. Under a variety of
circumstances/cultural conditions, a plant's internal water pressure
(turgidity) can become so high that some leaf cells rupture and leak
their contents into inter-cellular spaces in leaf tissue, creating
wet or weepy areas. Symptoms vary by plant, but as the malady
progresses, areas of the leaf turn yellow, brown, brown with reddish
overtones or even black, with older damage appearing as corky/ scaly/
ridged patches, or wart/gall-like bumpy growth. Symptoms are seen
more frequently in plants that are fleshy, are usually more
pronounced on the underside of leaves, and older/lower leaves are
more likely to be affected than younger/upper leaves.

Oedema is most common in houseplants during the
winter/early spring months, is driven primarily by excessive water
retention in the soil, and can be intensified via several additional
cultural influences. Cool temperatures, high humidity levels, low
light conditions, or partial defoliation can individually or
collectively act to intensify the problem, as can anything else that
slows transpiration. Nutritional deficiencies of Ca and Mg are also
known contributors to the malady.

Some things that can help you prevent oedema:

* Increase light levels and temperature

* Monitor water needs carefully – avoid
over-watering. I'd heartily recommend a soil with drainage so sharp
(fast) that when you to water to beyond the saturation point you
needn't worry about prolonged periods of soil saturation wrecking
root health/function. Your soil choice should be a key that unlocks
the solutions to many potential problems.

* Avoid misting or getting water on foliage. It
slows transpiration and increases turgidity.

* Water as soon as you get up in the AM. When
stomata close in preparation for the dark cycle, turgidity builds. If
you water early in the day, it gives the plant an opportunity to
remove (for its own needs) some of the excess water in the soil.

* Put a fan in the room or otherwise increase air flow/circulation.
Avoid over-crowding your plants.

Al