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monika2024

Getting granite into basement through window?

6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago

We have a horrible u shaped staircase, which means to get a full slab in is through the basement window, flat ways. BUT was told it can crack if not sideways.


Has anyone done this?

Comments (20)

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    What does your installer say?



  • 6 years ago

    How large? I also gave a “U” stairway. Was able to get 4x7 drywall there.


    Another option - IF you have an area of unfinished basement ceiling with carpet on

    the floor above try this. Pull back the carpet and remove a section of sub flooring. With sufficient manpower, lower the granite then replace everything.

  • 6 years ago

    yes it's been done. i'm sure they can find a way to stabilize it. it will be fine. it's on your fabricator and install team anyway, so they have a financial incentive to do it correctly.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    thanks all. Walls are up and painted so cant go any other way but window.

    three pieces 95 x24 , 112x 27 and 102 x 24. They want to cut them in half and leave a seam. I dont want seams.

    i told them i’ll build a ramp (i did the whole remodel -framing, drywall etc- pretty handy) as i do not want seams.

    trying to convince them to do this. Wanted everyones opinions and maybe tips on a way to get it through the 31” x 14 windows before i build the ramp.

  • PRO
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    So your kitchen is in the basement I am just trying to get a feel for the pieces. . Is the staircase on the out side or going into the basement the 112 “ piece might be an issue but how was drywall taken in to the basement ? I am not sure what the ramp 's purpose would be

  • 6 years ago

    That’s a negative ghost rider. You’re going to have to have a seam. Or else sign of 100% on paying for new counters when those break. You NEVER carry granite on the flat. On edge only.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Possibly build a topless 'crate' out of 3/4'' plywood, reinforced w/ 2 x 4's and cross-braced so the slabs can go thru the basement window? Maybe even a double layer of 3/4" ply staggering the seams because plywood is only 8' long (or special order longer length plywood)?

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Here's the picture of the window.. It's for a basement bar area and laundry room.


  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    I was thinking of building a "sled" (with a lip at the end to prevent the slab from sliding down) on 2x10's with cross braces uder, then securing the slabs to the sled with ratchet belts, and then sliding it on a ramp inside. Have to imagine this has been done before. Probably going to sign a waiver because i hate seams so much.

    Patricia, I cut the drywall to 7 feet, only way to get it in without cutting into the house. Also not a kitchen but laundry room and bar area. The ramp would alleviate them doing all the lifting as it transitions from the outside to the inside.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Actually, I'm thinking of using the black iron gas pipes for the cross members, thinking these would slide down the ramp with less friction and provide a more solid and straight base.

    any one else have any thoughts?

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    The weight of granite on the flat will snap it in two. It’s carried verticalmy in A frames for a reason. Plywood or flat steel flexes and you might as well have nothing as have all of that. When a 500 pound piece cracks, it hurts people. Or kills people. No smart fabricator would touch this job. Theyd suggest laminate.


    Tack on an extra 1K for the jankeriffic deux ex machina labor and materials response to picking the wrong granite fabricator. Plus the privilege of buying your counters all over again when they break.

    A great fabricator’s self seams are a non issue. And he would never ever even entertain your idea. You would get a seam with no negotiation. Or you’d move on to picking the goofball that you chose that would let you propose this.



  • 6 years ago

    Hmm i wasnt going to use plywood- or flat steel...??not sure where u got that from.


    2x10x 12’s with iron pipes as cross members under. round iron pipes wont bend Esp when you have one every foot under the 2x10’s.


    Thanks for the input though. Going to try this regardless and take a risk.



  • 6 years ago

    Plywood was my idea. I know it flexes; that's why I suggested bracing it. Maybe a platform with 2x4's on edge and a double layer of 3/4 ply? If stone can span between the gable ends of cabinets, it ought to be possible to build a sufficiently rigid platform to move it.


    But, after seeing the photo of the room, I'm wondering if you've considered alternatives to stone. Maybe zinc?



  • PRO
    6 years ago

    I've had to unzip vinal siding and sheathing to access a metal chimney to remove dead squirrels. It isn't all that tough, but I still like the Sink Saver idea better.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    So the install went flawlessly. and NO SEAMS :) attaching some pics for anyone who has the same issue.










  • 6 years ago

    Aand, they kept it vertical. As is required.

  • 6 years ago

    That is how you handle that granite for sure. Suction Cups and Steel Bars. Nice job.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    thank you, they were fantastic! If anyone is in nj or east pa the company was Absolute Marble and Granite in Cinnaminson nj.

    I used them for my kitchen and they also managed to install a large L shape piece so that i didnt have seams. Very good work! Highly recommend them!


    also for those who would consider this but afraid of putting a hole in your house- unzipping the siding was a bit of a pain but rezipping is MUCH EASIER. It’s not a big deal at all just make sure you dont cut the framing and youre good to go! Dont forget to label you siding pieces.