It's simple. If your rather volatile flooring is subjected to conditions that don't closely match those that it will live in, there's a significant likelihood that it will move in some way and require extensive rework. If you live in an area where the outdoor weather is similar to what you will live with indoors, there's a better chance of success. If not, the opposite is likely.

If you were paying ME to do your floor, the HVAC would have been on for a month to acclimatize other crucial things in the home (like the subfloor), then I would deliver the wood, stack it with dividers (aka stickers) in the controlled area, check the moisture and wait until I was comfortable with the moisture level in the flooring and subfloor.

High end contractors here often engage an HVAC company to temporarily install a package unit with supply ducts and a return duct run through windows. Others own window units and install them at the appropriate time. It would be smart to purchase a thermo-hygrometer to monitor areas in the house before, during and after the floorwork. Here's a really cool and useful example:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPOESHI/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A2ANVX7C75D1I&psc=1

We are in SC, so temps in March and April won’t be too bad. Our GC subcontracts the flooring install by a local “flooring professional”. I asked about having the HVAC turned on early but was told that’s not possible. I’m going to do some research and contact the county and the power company myself to see if there’s a way around this.

There’s no doubt the GC won’t be around for problems. I think he’s kinda thrown in the towel on us anyway and just wants to be done. I’m not going into all the issues but thankfully we know enough that I still believe we have a solid house despite his shortcuts and lack of custom home experience (he advertises himself as custom builder but got his experience in track home building and it shows). I will say though he had me specked for red oak floors and when I asked about quarter and rift red oak he looked at me like I had a 3rd eye. Said he didn’t know anything about quarter and rift sawn. 🤦🏻‍♀️

Anyway, if I can work out the HVAC issue should I still have any concerns? I know you said you weren’t going to, but please elaborate on the moisture barrier that was recommended to us to use on our advantec sub floors. I have my own concerns about that (ie. does it trap moisture between subfloor and hardwood etc). I appreciate any advice. This is our first custom home and also first hardwood selection for install.

You’re setting a bunch of money on fire. It will be a total replacement for anything that goes in without operable HVAC. That includes big problems with cabinets and trim. 8” will move a whole bunch. It can look like a roller coaster. Water swelling wood pieces is how old fashioned quarries mined marble blocks. If it can crack giant mountains of rock, it can certainly bow up an wreck your subfloor, and the wood itself.

Thanks all. So should
I scrap the idea of these beautiful floors and go with something else or is there something I can do to acclimate? My GC says he doesn’t know any way to get power. We are going with a geothermal system and I’m not sure if the saw pole will be enough power for that, but it may since they require less power. So I’m going to check with our HVAC installer and I’m also going to follow up with the county and power company to see when we could get power.

If all that fails, would using window units be enough? The house is 5900 sq ft. My GC does have dehumidifiers running on each floor right now. Currently they’re installing trim and then paint. He says next will be the hardwood floors and cabinets. Suggestions?

Why didn't you "like the look" of engineered unfinished European livesawn Oak? A quality engineered product should look quite similar to solid, if not identical. That would be one potentially viable option. It should cost more but address the stability issues. It could also be stapled or nailed over a moisture retarder.

If you have a temporary power pole, wiring up a temporary a/c should be feasible.

To me the engineered core looked different. Hard to explain, but it could be that it was a sample wall vs the full size boards of livesawn white oak. Also I asked for no beveled edge because to me that gives it more of the engineered look. The sample wall I saw looked like it had a micro bevel even though I was told it was a flat edge. Then there’s the various lengths of the solid hardwood vs the engineered core which comes with a few starter boards then the rest are all 6’. Again, same length boards takes away from the true character. Another thing that may have made a difference is the engineered core comes with the knots filled while the solid hardwood would have to be filled during install. In the end maybe they’d look the same, but my mind kept seeing the filled knots on the engineered core and they looked really odd (probably because it was raw filler with no finish). Idk I’m second guessing my choice now. Maybe I should reconsider the engineered core but I really loved the solid hardwood boards I saw.

The hardwood supplier recommended Wakol PU 280 adhesive and the Loba Supra 2K finish. Also recommended a rolled on moisture barrier on the subfloor.

Live sawn oak is available in both unfinished solid and engineered flooring. No reason why your supplier cannot get it.

The floor will shrink quite a bit, once you get the heating system up and running. The beautiful 8" wide plank, won't look too pretty with 1/4" gaps. Unless, power is being turned on in the summer.

Everyone gave me such good advice that I’ve come back for more help! Maybe I should start a new thread for this, but thought I’d start here first. Good news is I’ve corrected some concerns for the moisture issue before our hardwood install. Gutters, exterior drains, crawl space dehumidifiers in crawl space (commercial size) all installed. I’m also working with HVAC & electrical for temporary power to the HVAC system. So I’m feeling comfortable with that. I’ve also decided to go with 7.5” European live sawn engineered core with a 6mm wear layer rather than the 8” solids white oak. Now my issue is staining...

I was going to use the loba 2k Supra finish but am now leaning toward an impact oil. Beautiful light to medium floors leaning more gray than red is what I was anticipating until... I realize my stair treads are red oak! I’ve contemplated getting a quote to change out the stair treads, but I have two large staircases and I’m afraid that will cost a fortune. We are well over budget already and still a ways to go. There is a decently large balcony area where the edge for the balusters are also red oak as part of the staircase landing and trim material. The balusters should be going up this week. Any suggestions?? Do I halt the baluster and railing install and have it all switched out (dependent on cost) or is there a way to match/blend the flooring and the stair material? I’ve read about bleaching the red oak, dying green, or staining both dark instead of light. I just don’t know the process of those options or how well it actually works. All advice is appreciated.

Yeah. Maybe ask the mill to slice that into veneers and glue it up to some baltic birch plywood and make it into an engineered for you. Or call saroyan lumber and they will make you whatever you want. I don’t ever want to do a 3/4” solid agian because they just move. Even if every thing is perfect. Still sometime they move. Engineered would be exactly the same widths and lengths and wood, but if is down tomorrow it will be down forever!

An impact oil will require HOMEOWNER maintenance. The first application is from the flooring refinishers. The next applications (assuming you will not hire this out every 6 - 12 months) will be yours. There are MULTIPLE products just to deal with 1 year of life. The amount of maintenance required by the homeowners can be overwhelming - especially when they are told the oil is a 'forever' product. No one tells the homeowner the amount of EFFORT it takes to keep that impact oil looking good FOREVER.

So is it really 6-12 months? Ugh! I love the look and the ability to repair or re-oil traffic areas more often rather than wait to refinish all floors at once. We have about 4500 square ft of flooring and that’s a lot of maintenance. We were told every 2-3 years which is doable. Every 6-12 months is not. Any suggestions in regards to matching the flooring to our stair treads and trim?

You can get away with a longer timeline depending on the amount and type of traffic applied to the flooring. I have not re-oiled my Pallmann Magic oiled oak floors for over 5 years. With Loba maybe sooner, since it's a lesser quality oil. If, you are doing a ceruse effect. The cerusing will need to be done sooner to keep the look.

As G & S makes clear, the product used AND the look you are after will be the deciding factor in maintenance requirements.

Because I'm lazy - I have other things to deal with other than a high-maintenance floor - I prefer the high-end 2part polyurethanes. I have no problem spending $180/gallon on a Loba 2K Supra AT because I'm familiar with the product AND I understand the wear characteristics of it.

As lovely as the Oiled finishes LOOK, I'm not about to deal with floors every 6months or every 2 years or every 5 years. And I'm in the CORK FLOORING business....which has higher maintenance requirements for polyurethane finishes already.

Hello Missmewv,

We typically finish our floors with a WOCA UV cured oil. This is a repairable oil finish and the maintenance is really not that bad. The most important thing to remember, is to use the Woca products when cleaning, not a general cleaner from the local grocery store. The products are available off amazon or from WOCA direct.

http://www.woodcareusa.com/guide/how-to-care-for-your-flooring-dos-and-donts

1) DUST-- Daily - Weekly (or as needed): Dust mop or vacuum your floors

2) CLEAN -- Weekly/Monthly (or as needed): Clean your floors by moping them with WOCA Soap.

3) REFRESH --2-4 times a year (or as needed): Clean your floors by moping them with WOCA Oil Refresher Soap.

This is all relative to how much use your floors get. Some areas may need to get cleaned more often than others.

You will know when you floors need cleaned and or refreshed and will probably vary by room. One of our clients just refreshed his living room floor for the first time and he had the floor installed over four years ago.

If you have any questions, or if you want me to get you a quote on one of our WOCA finished floor, feel free to contact me. Our flooring is all manufactured/finished here in the USA!

-- Debbie George

debbie@woodco.com // (210) 298-9663

I’ve been reading thru threads on flooring and have read conflicting info on UV oil finish. You are saying it will need maintenance but I read on a different thread that UV oil is different than regular oiled floors and do not need to be re-oiled. Would love some clarification on this. Every time I find a floor I think about using I come across something that I’m not willing to deal with. Thanks for any extra info on this.