My SZ (632) has an anti-tip approach that connects to the wall above the unit. I use a magnetically attached panel that matches the cabinetry for access.

If the unit is tipped toward horizontal, it may like many refrigeration systems require time stored vertical before powering it. Check with SZ for the time required as I have forgotten the value.

Rolling the unit on finished floors is not recommended (by me) particularly if the floors are a soft wood. Use quarter-inch underlayment hardwood plywood.

Note that pulling the unit out requires raising re-expos ing wheels. This may change the unit height; I don't recall which way. So this may need to be accommodated by the cabinetry above. Mine actually sits on strips of the hardwood plywood with sheet metal between the unit and the wood to ensure good weight spread. (I have cherry flooring in the kitchen.)

Have an accurate level and plan to spend significant time leveling in all planes per the installation directions. Attach the anti-tip hardware after leveling, but be sure that you have a plan to reach in there. Note that peculiarities of a given residence may suggest a different anti-tip approach. Just be sure that there is one. You want door opening to be like opening a port into an armored vehicle -- no reactive body movement. And if your SZ is like mine, trying to open the freezer just after shutting the door and having the freezer pull a vacuum will lead to a lot of pull force on the entire unit.

Can you post images of your space? I love my SZ, but it sounds as though your renovation to fit one in your space might be rather extensive. There were two anti-tip brackets installed on my fridge.

I saw something about the bracket. Guess I will have to find the studs behind above the fridge and lug the bracket in. Does the bracket span 16" (distance between stud centres) or will I have to use a 2x4 or some such? Any space behind where the bracket goes?

Floors are tiled but look like distressed wood, and fortunately the space under the fridge is tiled, though I suspect there will be a gap when I move the cabinet over 3". Hardwood ply still recommended?

How is SZ levelled (mechanism)?

Space where the SZ will go. Corner angled cabinet to be moved over 3", Over fridge cabinet removed.

Zn are you planning to install this yourself? I get it if you want to DIY preparing the space, but consider paying for delivery and installation. You’re going to be buying a $9,000 refrigerator. It’s super heavy and does not stand on its own the way a non built-in does. Maybe consider letting the professionals do what they do.

Oh, I want the delivery people to get it into the house and at least into place where I can slide it in - if not attach it. My intention is to pre-prep the space myself, as well as get water plumbing, power outlet and mounting for the securing bracket in place. I do realise the thing weighs in at over 500 lbs, and is not made for freestanding use (so no finished/enclosed sides, back or top).

Disadvantage where I am is that the contractors are super busy and can't be bothered with small jobs.

My 632 may have different leveling than yours, so download a copy of the installation manual and inhale deeply. You will need this for water interface and electrical interface. Building everything out a couple of inches can make things easier, if space allows.

I think I used my own 2 x 4 for the anti-tip for some reason I've forgotten.

Given the nature of things going wrong when most inconvenient, I would still use a few sheets of plywood for transport protection in case a metal edge tries to dig into a tile. One doesn't need them over the whole path; ones passed over can be moved to the front. They are usually 4 x 4 ft in size, so not so difficult to get home as 4 x 8 sheets of plywood would be.