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Shirt pattern drafting

6 years ago


I thought it would be interesting to share photos of patterns that we have drafted for clothes. I've photographed patterns I've made for furniture, but this is the first time I've photographed a clothing pattern. I have way more clothing patterns in storage than I realized because I haven't gone through them until last month, but I do plan to do some more sewing projects in the near future.

I had originally planned to use the black and white fabric in this photo for the shirt, but I found some gray and black striped fabric that is softer, and so my brother likes that better. I've made several shirts for him in the past, using linen, silk broadcloth, and custom painted cotton. I've also made a three piece fully lined raw silk suit, linen slacks with matching vest, and a wedding dress for his ex-wife.

Do you have any photographs of patterns that you have drafted? I thought they might be inspiring, if you would be willing to share.

Comments (43)

  • 6 years ago

    Pattern for the back.
    Sleeve and collar.
    Yoke, pocket, and interfacing for front.

  • 6 years ago

    That's super cool Lars. I've always sewn off the big three. Once - a long time ago, when I sewed frequently - I copied a very basic ready-made dress but that was my limit. I'm also not a fan of tailoring clothing, save for a simple hem - but I'm trying to push myself on that a little with some mixed results.

    Can't wait to see the finished product.

    Lars thanked 1929Spanish-GW
  • 6 years ago

    Lars, are familiar with the Fashion Incubator website?


    If not, I think you might find it interesting.


    Random link to a post about reviewing a menswear drafting book...


    https://fashion-incubator.com/review-patternmaking-for-menswear/

    Lars thanked ci_lantro
  • 6 years ago

    I had lots of my self made patterns in my file cabinets but unfortunately lost everything in the flood.

    Lars thanked ravencajun Zone 8b TX
  • 6 years ago

    Lars, I'm so impressed!

    Lars thanked socks
  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    It would be nice to have a men's dress form, but they cost more than I want to spend at the moment. I had a woman's dress form in San Francisco that I bought at a garage sale for cheap, and I didn't realize how much they really cost back then.

    Thanks for the link, Ci_lantro. I don't need that book, but the site looks very inspiring.

    Raven, I am so sorry that you suffered so much loss. I know I would be devastated if I lost all of my patterns, but you lost much more than just that.

  • 6 years ago

    Lars, you are so blest with talent. Can’t wait to see new shirts. For years I made every stitch of clothing we wore. Loved sewing suits for my husband. The sizing was always perfect sized as the store sizes. But it was always using a bought pattern. You are amazing!!!

    Lars thanked hallngarden
  • 6 years ago

    That's a gorgeous veil, Annie!❤️

  • 6 years ago

    Lars, I am beyond impressed. Is there anything you are not good at? Seriously, I wish I had the talent for anything that you possess in your little finger!

    Thanks also for sharing that veil again, Annie. It is the loveliest bridal veil I have ever seen.

    Lars thanked cyn427 NoVaZone7
  • 6 years ago

    A long time ago I made simple patterns but seldom made the final pieces. I do wonder if some company makes something that my mom had. It was a stiff printed bound cardboard that had the basic pieces with lines for each size. While you could probably pin material to it I think the premise was to lay your paper on it then mark it before cutting it out. I found it interesting because it showed how little difference there was between sizes.

    Lars thanked maifleur03
  • 6 years ago

    I also used to make patterns but lost the lot in a house fire. I have never really sewn again like I used to. I made all my clothes. I often took patterns that had elements I liked and slashed and cut and added and subtracted -lots of tape. Yours are so nice and clean. I typically started with a Vogue and slashed and burned. Men's shirts are complicated. I am impressed.

    Lars thanked patriciae_gw
  • 6 years ago

    I am not in your league Lars - not by any stretch of the imagination. I don't have the confidence to try that. The closest I can come is I've been looking for simple patterns or instructions to sew kilts for my grand daughter. I've found some on you tube that look promising and crafting a skirt with a velcro closing for the waist band is much easier than a fitted man's dress shirt

    Did you find the buttons you were looking for in the other post?


    Lars thanked maire_cate
  • 6 years ago

    I can't imagine not only sewing tailored clothing--but creating my own patterns to work from. You must have a very special brain, Lars, considering all the other talents you have. Could you post pictures of some of your finished garments? Would love to see some!

  • 6 years ago

    Lars, did you ever try making your own form?

    https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/10/24/paper-tape-dress-form

    Lars thanked chickadee2_gw
  • 6 years ago

    I so wish I had that talent! I have so many ideas to make my clothes more interesting or just more my style, but I have only very basic sewing skills (and very little patience!).

    Lars thanked jmck_nc
  • 6 years ago

    So many incredibly talented people post here. I am in awe!

    Lars thanked Fun2BHere
  • 6 years ago

    I guess I could try to make my own dress form, but I do okay without one, although it would be easier if I did have one. At least now I have the space to store one.

    I don't have photos here of my sewing creations, other than my SIL's wedding dress, as most of the photos I have not yet scanned. I don't have the photos here, and I don't have a scanner here, but eventually I will be able to share some of them.

    Here's the dress I made for my SIL

    This is not the best photo of it - it looks much better when she is walking. The jacket is silk organza, as is the overskirt, and the rest of the dress is rayon taffeta moire. I would have made a better veil if I had had access to better fabrics, but I made this at my parents' farm in central Texas. I had brought the silk organza for the jacket and skirt with me from San Francisco, but I didn't have enough for the veil, which was sort of an afterthought.

  • 6 years ago

    Lars, you are a rare talent. I love what you are doing with the patters, and can't wait to see the shirt. I wish I lived closer so I could just watch the progress. I used to sew some and would always have to alter the patterns to fit but I had nowhere near your skills. Growing up in a small town I knew nothing of dress forms and how to really tailor anything properly, just did it by what seemed right to do and a lot of pinning and basting before final stitches. I made almost all of my maternity clothes because I hated what was offered in stores.

    I've always loved Annie's wedding veil and the wedding dress Lars made. The closest I came to something like that was helping my best friend craft a mantilla and headpiece (remember those back in the late 60's?) for her wedding. She had the lace and didn't have a clue how to craft it the way she wanted. I traveled to North Carolina for her wedding and figured it out in 2-3 days before her wedding.


    Lars thanked OutsidePlaying
  • 6 years ago

    Well done dress Lars!

    Lars thanked Annie Deighnaugh
  • 6 years ago

    I'd love to see your other creations! My mom could sew anything and did. I didn't get that gene and neither did my daughter unfortunately. My mom made all our clothes growing up, including bathing suits, and a lot of household things like curtains and pillows.

    Lars thanked Kathsgrdn
  • 6 years ago

    Lars, I think you will really like the Fashion Incubator site. Gotta' warn you though...I can get lost in there. There is a lot that I don't care about but plenty enough other to keep me interested for hours.

    Lars thanked ci_lantro
  • 6 years ago

    Beautiful wedding gown, Lars. After wedding gown shopping with my daughter last year, I think a custom made dress is probably worth every penny. That dress fits the bride beautifully, and I love the idea that it moved gracefully with her. When we picked my daughters dress up after the final fitting she was very upset because of how uncomfortable it felt in the shoulder/underarms. They basically told her they wouldn't do any further alterations. When I got there I asked for the head tailoring woman. Turns out they had taken the sleeves apart during alterations and sewn them on backwards! We did get it all corrected, but it was a terrible experience.

    Lars thanked teeda
  • 6 years ago

    Lars, I really enjoy seeing your creations and especially love that you're so close with your brother.

    Lars thanked jupidupi
  • 6 years ago

    I also do alterations. My brother bought a Versace suit at the Versace outlet in Cabazon for a drastically reduced price, but the sleeves were about 2" too long. I had to take the sleeves completely off, make a pattern of the sleeve cap, which is where I reduced the length. It was necessary to make a pattern so that I could shift it down and keep the same curves. The suit jacket had lining plus multiple interfacing, which is what made it difficult to alter, but it came out nice. I photographed it as I took it apart so that I would know how to put it back together!

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Lars....your doing a GREAT JOB!!!!!! I love seeing your work! Inspirational indeed!

    When I was 16 years old, I took a pattern making class. We made a pair of pants.

    Here goes:

    #1 Green velveteen button down the front skirt, with matching tailored jacket. Black rabbit fur ear warmer, for skiing.

    #2 suspender pants. I made the suspenders too(I last wore it to a T-giving party. Festive color.). Belted @ the waist, denim jumper(Last time I wore it was to jury duty).

    #3 Pattern I made to upholster DH's truck seats. 30-35 pieces to it!

    Note: I used old blue prints for paper. Commercial remodels my husband builds.

    I designed the seat covers. Made of upholstery weight duck. They have air bags in them. Had to use velcro on the outside seam for quick release. The headrest covers also velcro on, underneath.

    I haven't made any clothes lately. I live in yoga pants & T-shirts.

    Lars thanked User
  • 6 years ago

    Nice collection of pattern, Nicole! A lot of mine are on tracing paper, because it is cheap and easy to pin to fabric, but I used heavier paper when making patterns for Lycra. I made a lot of Lycra shirts in the 1980s and 90s, and I pieced together black Lycra with different colors of Lycra to make geometric patterns. You have to be thin to wear them, and so I haven't made any lately. I also made Lycra bathing suits and still have the patterns for some of them.

  • 6 years ago

    Beautifully made dress, Lars. As others have mentioned, the dress fits perfectly and the style really suits the bride. Isn't it so true that dresses look so much better when the wearer is moving - that's really when the fabric and fit really stand out.

    Lars thanked stacey_mb
  • 6 years ago

    You folks are so talented. Lars , the wedding dress was beautiful, everyone that posted pics had amazing items. Now tailoring the Versace suit went way over my expertise. You are a master of many arts. Paying attention to details .

    Lars thanked hallngarden
  • 6 years ago

    Here's the shirt I made. I had to wait for the buttons to arrive before I could finish it.
    The fabric is a cotton lawn that I've had for some time and was originally going to make pajamas out of. This shirt could be worn as a pajama top, and I have enough fabric left over (I think) to make the bottoms. I was planning also to make a matching mask for my brother.

  • 6 years ago

    Lars, WOW, knew it would be amazing made from beautiful material. Your talents never end.

    Lars thanked hallngarden
  • 6 years ago

    Nicely done. The only sewing pattern I remember making was for my Barbie. I also made one for my sister's larger doll. It was the very popular for one season wrap around pantskirt, and all I really had to do was reduce the size of a rectangle with a scoop in the middle of it down to scale. I did make some costumed for one of the musicals my son was in -- dresses for the chorus in one scene to coordinate with ones we had -- but I put together patterns I had to modify them -- not really drafting there either. You have a skill I wish I had known how to acquire.

    Lars thanked lascatx
  • 6 years ago

    Impressive, Lars.

    Lars thanked Zalco/bring back Sophie!
  • 6 years ago

    Very nice!


    Lars thanked teeda
  • 6 years ago

    My brother was very happy with it 😍, and I might use the same pattern to make a shirt for myself. I might make mine with smaller sleeves.

    Next I will be making outdoor pillows for our patio, which is much easier than making shirts.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    It's a great fit! Nice job Lars! And done so fast!

    When you said you had fabric stash.....I thought about mine....and realized I need to buy more Sunbrella! ha ha (I checked the JoAnns site and the prices for Sunbrella are insane. Fabricguru has now posted they are behind on orders. Insane times!)

    Lars thanked User
  • 6 years ago

    Nicole, I got my Sunbrella fabric from Outdoor Fabric Central. They have very fast delivery - mine arrived two days after I ordered it. They have a very good selection, and the prices were similar to Amazon's.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    :0) Lars... Leigh Anne in Lemon. 4 yards/click to view.

    Stock varies, but they have so much, I can always find something I like in remnants. I have "no" projects, I'd just be collecting fabric for future use.

    Note: Fabric Guru is a mill ends store. Leigh Anne has been discontinued. It's NOT available anywhere else. Any flaws are disclosed in the listing.

    Lars thanked User
  • 6 years ago

    Nicole, JoAnn's prices for the 40-60% off sales. Regular prices are all high.

    Lars thanked lascatx
  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    lascatx......I purchased Sunbrella Meander for $7 a yard @ Fabric Guru/a remnant. 60% off w/ a coupon @ Joannes, makes it $16.99 a yard.

    I do shop @ Joannes for fabric that I need to see, touch and feel before purchasing....and pay whatever they're asking. Upholstery fabric is usually 30% off already. For name brands......like Sunbrella.....I just buy it and know it's going to be excellent!

    Lars has mentioned some of his fabrics he got when he was doing design work.

    In home design work...I used to know a tiler(he moved to Hawaii). He gave me Italian Raku cuts he had left over from a job.....that would not have been available to me, since I don't order in that kind of bulk.

    A mill ends store gives me the "edge" I otherwise would not have in "this" industry.

    Lars thanked User
  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    In fact, I got most of my fabrics for free, but I also did buy some at F&S in West L.A., which is an excellent fabric store. They even have leopard print Sunbrella, which I would buy if I were there. We're going back to L.A. in a couple of weeks and stay for a week, and so maybe I can shop there, if they are open. I'm still hesitant to go to a store that is not absolutely necessary, however. They are just up the street from Marukai, my favorite Japanese market.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Lars....I clicked on your link to F & S. The Sunbrella ikat is scrumptous! They have 2 I've not seen before. I see the leopard prints. Nice!

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I'm crushing on THIS Sunbrella Greek Key.

    I'd make throw pillows to put on the bright crimson red cushions for the patio. I just ordered it.

    Lars thanked User
  • 6 years ago

    Lars you are inspiring! Very nice shirt, and that wedding gown is very cool🙂

    I really like convertible collars, as opposed to collars with a stand. I think they look nicer and are way more comfortable.

    I went to fashion design school and learned pattern drafting. Still have my slopers, tools, notebooks & textbook and from back then, but I haven't made any patterns for fabric in a very, very long time. I learned to use white kraft paper (or butcher paper), and we used oaktag for the slopers.

    I make patterns for paper crafting projects all the time, but that's not the same thing at all.

    Most of the sewing I manage to do these days is basically patternless, or I use commercial patterns. I have an enormous collection of vintage ones that I've scavenged from yard sales and thrift stores over the years.

    I managed to score a commercial dressform many years ago at a fleamarket (for $18!!!) and it's even my size. I've kept it all these years because I too know how much those things can go for. I learned how to drape and make muslin patterns, but it's been decades since I tried.

    Lars thanked carolb_w_fl_coastal_9/10