I think your color combination will look beautiful. However, I would go a little darker and more olive on the green and maybe a pearl or cream white for the uppers to blend in with the tile. Use a brighter lighting under your cabinets to bring out the true color of your tiles, cutting some of the gold undertones and giving it a more contemporary feel.

And yes, paint the encasement the same as your uppers.

thank you Silverlined and Act One Designs. I really appreciate the feedback. I am terrible at colors, so saying go to a more olive tone tends to through me. The color of those Houzz cabinets is BM AF-510 Dragonfly. Is there a way on the BM site to be able to see how to add an more olive color into that? and still match the tile? Or do you have some sort of slider that would give me a different number?

Yes, we are NOT considering a remodel. We are on the coast just outside of San Francisco, and the costs are pretty high to do that. We would be just as happy painting the cabinets now to give the kitchen a fresh look. I had considered doing it myself (still might) with DecoArts Satin Enamel, a very thick and self-leveling water based paint. But they really don't have the colors that I prefer.

And I had no idea that hiring someone to paint our cabinets could run up to $7k! wow, i guess I should check that out before deciding.

If you put a DecoArts paint on the cabinets with or without preparation, you're going to dealing with an abraded finish fairly soon on down the line, probably within 3 years. Kitchen cabinetry is exposed to stresses that other furniture isn't in terms of food staining, hands repeatedly touching the finish around hardware, and moisture. Living along the San Francisco coast, you are also going to be dealing with humidity changes that will promote wood's expansion and contraction, straining the coating at the joints in the process, causing paint to crack. Benjamin Moore's Advance is a one-part coating that is often used for entry-level cabinetry painting, but even it won't give you the long-wearing properties that a two-part catalytic conversion varnish or a two-part Italian waterborne coating would. ICA-Ilva two-part waterborne finishes are approved for use in California, and Veteran cabinet builder @jdesign_gw who is based in California has said in another thread that this is almost all he uses. The newer high-tech waterbornes that are two-component from companies like Milesi, Renner, Sayerlack, and ICA-Ilva rival the chemical and moisture resistance that only oil-based paints used to provide, plus there is the advantage of non-yellowing finishes with the waterbornes. The better paints also provide some degree of elasticity to help prevent joint cracking, though never eliminating it. Clear top coats crack as well as opaque paints, but it is not as noticeable over a wood look.

Standard preparation would be to strip and sand your current finish. Then, the drawers and drawer fronts would be removed and taken to a shop with a clean room for painting. The remaining frames would be sealed off and sprayed on site, 2 coats minimum on everything. Your kitchen is on the large side. You live in a high cost of living area. Professional painting done with correct surface preparation will likely be running you at least $4,000 USD but probably closer to $7,000 if you go with a quality, two-part finish coating from a reputable painter.

Painting kitchen cabinets takes care with the preparation, but if you are a DIYer it is possible for <$200 in paint and supplies.

20 Surprising Tips on How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets
https://www.familyhandyman.com/kitchen/diy-kitchen-cabinets/surprising-tips-for-painting-kitchen-cabinets/

Agree with @silverlined that the preparation and products used are MOST important. Anything less than the proper products is a waste of your time. I think the backsplash is really limiting your choices. I'd consider replacing that in addition to painting the cabinets.

@gmcutter Yes, what the previous contributor said, you can paint the kitchen DIY, but you wouldn't be able to use a 2-component finish unless you went the spray route because the hardener makes the paint dry too quickly for roll/brush. There are some DIY painters who roll/brush exclusively who hang out in this Facebook group and would have some great tips for you: https://www.facebook.com/groups/diycabinetrefinishing

It's not entirely beyond the realm of possibility that you could spray this yourself, too, but it would involve setting up your own clean room with DIY filters and a non-combustible fan and investing in an HPLV sprayer. There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to do that, and you can buy Milesi paint that will be a long-lasting, durable option for you from one of the members of the Facebook group I linked above if you are interested in that option. BIN primer is usually recommended as the first coat for opaque coatings.

The advantage of spraying is usually a smoother surface, but if you have visible grain on your cabinetry, you would need to grain fill the surface if you wanted it to be really smooth. Paint alone won't fill your grain, so you should be prepared for the final look to be textured if you aren't doing any grain fill procedures. If you wanted to just roll/brush, then remember that the adhesion is only as good as the surface below it. If your current finish is flaking or degraded, you'll need to consider the extent of the surface prep that you'll want to do and how long you want it to last.

You seriously want to ruin that kitchen by bad processes?

The backsplash adds a lovely bit of whimsy. If you like it keep it!

There are dozens of color shades that will go with it, and what a shame to toss it in a dump.

These are kitchen cabinets, not a Range Rover needing magnifyer-verified ChromaFlair. Paint over woodgrain looks just fine. It looks like what it is, painted wood. And if it nicks, or gets worn, just repaint it.

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It looks like you may have fluorescent lighting in your kitchen. The harshest light you can have. So, really, if this is the case, you have been seeing your kitchen environment in the worst possible light, literally. I don’t know if you have under cabinet lighting or what if any other lighting you have in kitchen.

The cabinets are beautiful. They are not outdated and wood is back En Vogue. The floor is also beautiful.

What will update your kitchen, primarily is lighting. The cabinet colors you are looking to bring in are faddish at best. In 5 years or less, the kitchen will look ridiculous, and then you can do another remodel.

In the meantime, wood is not going anywhere.

gmcutter, I'm curious to know what you decided to do with your cabinetry. We have a similar set of cabinetry, although yours are nicer looking, and received a quote for $10,000 to have them painted with Milesi paint, and, the grain filled. I totally trust the company that quoted me the work and I know they quote fairly and do a phenomenal job. So, I'm on the fence as $10k just seems like alot of money for painted cabinets. I've also had a quote for refacing cabinets and that will run $24k, making the painting option seem cheap. :-) What did you decide?

I should note that we are also in a expensive metro area- near Seattle so I'm assuming the pricing for work is similar.