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richard_johnson7970

Chipper/Shredder cuts off

5 years ago

I have a Troy-bilt chipper/shredder (model 47266). It starts up fine and works great for about 10-15 minutes. After that, I can't keep it running by adjusting the choke to any position. The oil has recently been replaced, it has sufficient gas. The air filter is old, but it certainly gets enough air when it's first starting. Kinda seems heat related, maybe. I'm going to clean the cooling fins, but wanted to see anyone else has seem this type of problem. Maybe the carburator should be cleaned or replaced? I got it from a friend who got it from another friend, so I don't know how old it is or how much maintenance it's had.


Any ideas are welcome!

Comments (5)

  • 5 years ago

    I'll suggest having a good Small Engine Mechanic check the machine since it has been through a few owners and "No Service History". If you do not have a good Small Engine Mechanic close, I'll Bet A Neighbor that has Small Engine Skills could help you. It sounds like it's time for a "Major Inspection & Tune-Up". The Inspection "Should Show" if more than "A Basic Tune-Up" is needed.


    Good Luck!!!

  • 5 years ago

    You fail to mention which engine your chipper was fitted with. Troy Bilt used both Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh flat head motors over the years. In the last few years (after being acquired out of bankruptcy by MTD, they used Briggs OHV engines. Not sure if the MTD machines continued use of the 47266 model number.


    Assuming you have an earlier Briggs or Tecumseh engine, it is probably a bad ignition coil failing when it gets hot. I assume after the machine cools down, it can be restarted with good spark.


    Either coil is widely available on the internet and on Ebay. The Briggs coil is 298968 if your engine has breaker points and condenser, and 398811 if your engine was fitted with electronic (Magnetron) ignition. The 398811 can also be used to convert an older engine to electronic, eliminating the points and condenser which are a maintenance item. The older "points" coil has a street price of about $30, the newer "electronic" is about $40; both are often available for less on Web or Ebay.


    The Tecumseh coil is 35135A and is also available on the Web for about $30 and even less from Ebay.


    BTW, some MTD machines were earlier fitted with a Tecumseh 5hp. However, this engine has the coil fitted under the flywheel, and is not really a "homeowner" repair item, as special tools would be required.

    Richard Johnson thanked Greg Goyeneche
  • 5 years ago

    Sorry for not mentioning the engine type. It's a Briggs & Straton and manual start. I'll look into what's involved in replacing the ignition coil. I'm also looking for someone in my neighborhood who knows about small engines, to see if they can come over to fix it. The unit is rather large and hard to move.


    Thanks for the help!

  • 5 years ago

    Since you have the Briggs 8hp that makes things a little easier. Ignition coil is outside the flywheel, and no reason to remove the flywheel. Easiest would be to purchase the "Magnetron" coil as mentioned above, or you can save a few $$ by fitting the Briggs 394970 kit. It consists of the electronic module, solders to the wire coming from the coil, and then snaps into the coil leg. Cost is about $20 on Web or Ebay. Technically NLA from Briggs.


    Coil itself is held by two screws (you'll need a 5/16" and 1/4" nutdriver). You will cut the wire off as close to flywheel as possible. No need to get under the flywheel, so no special tools are required (starter wrench, flywheel wrench, flywheel knocker, etc.). Points will continue to open and close, but will have no effect.


    Suggest you use a new (or even used) Magnetron coil, and eliminate the soldering, etc. Mount the coil as high as possible (i.e. away from the coil magnets) and tighten screws. Then rotate the flywheel so magnets are directly below the coil legs, place a business card between coil and magnets, and loosen the screws. Magnets should pull coil up tight. Tighten the screws and you should be pretty close to .010 clearance, which is factory spec. Rotate the flywheel to spin out the business card, and you should be good to go. Procedure is the same for engine originally fitted with electronic ignition, except you don't have primary wire to cut. Be sure to reconnect the kill wire (usually tied to one of the armature screws).


    BTW, Briggs went to Magnetron ignition in 1983 or 1984, so if you have older breaker point ignition, your machine is nearly 40 years old.


    Good luck.

  • 5 years ago

    When the Engine stops, try and give it a "Quick Check" for Fire, Fuel and Compression "While it is Hot".