Bona is HIGH END (Bona Traffic HD is THE BEST OF THE BEST!). DuraSeal is 'DIY' level.

Bona NordicSeal = silvering look over red oak...can have 2 coats applied to allow for a whiter silver. And with 2 coats you can then use 2 coats of Bona Traffic HD which will save a snick of money.

Or you can go with DIY level DuraSeal, pay someone WAAAAAAY too much to use DIY level stuff and you will then need to BLEACH (hoping 'DIY Dude' is good enough to get it done) and then you need to use a white-based stain (again...hoping DIY Dude can do it) and then apply 3 coats of DIY level product....for way too much money...again...hoping DIY Dude gets it done without ANY problems.

I'm a Bona Fan...the person who is a Certified Bona Trained professional = 5x BETTER than DIY Dude.

But that's just me.

First, thank you for the information! The Bona quote said they would bleach the floors up to two times 1st then apply Nordic Seal and 3 coats of Bona HD Traffic. I’m not sure if they would need to add a white tint in there too?

The Nordic seal IS the 'white tint'. It's in the name NordicSEAL. The 'nordic' means white based. The 'seal' = sealant or primer. The Bona plan is SOLID. They are going to knock every stick of red, yellow, orange - every colour, out of your floors. You will have a white on white on white wood floor. Be aware...it could look so white that it looks 'painted'.

I would ask them to have a colour patch done properly:

1. A 2ft x 2ft patch of the floors they way THEY describe

2. A 2ft x 2ft patch with ONE bleaching + 2 Nordic Seal

3. A 2ft x 2ft patch with NO bleaching + 2 Nordic Seal

These will offer you the best visual you can have for 'white' floors. Remember: Scandinavian floors have some colour in them. They are not 'painted' white floors. They have some soft colour tones left in them.

I can not THANK YOU enough. You have given me so much information. I really appreciate it!