I'm a fan of blue and your two current blues are light so I don't think adding some navy in the kitchen would be "too much". What colour are the kitchen walls and were you planning on changing them?

What about something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3m2SBE2hgw

I am not a lover of blues but I think if you love blue what is the issue? But I would be looking at new lighting in the space for sure before choosing anything else . You need at least a track light with 5 heads in LED 4000K and better would be some pot lights if budget allows. The white of the cabinets needs to go with the creamy white of the counters and then the blue needs to work with those creamy whites. You might need to paint the walls . IMO in a samll space the fewer finishes the better so I would probably just go the same white everywhere for cabinets and add blue as an accessory or two.

I feel that if you are asking if this is too much blue, it probably is too much blue. In a smaller space (as opposed to McMansions), unifying the spaces with neutrals might be best, let the accent pieces carry the color. And blue is my favorite color. I have a bathroom in the Rainwashed color, though the Sherwin Williams version. It's a gorgeous color to be sure.

Would just doing the island in a different finish than the rest of the cabinets be a better choice? Would this still be too.much for this size kitchen?

Just the island in blue would be a better option imo.

I agree the Island only in blue. This picture has Chantilly lace cabinets with a similar blue island.

Have you already closed a new light fixture or are you looking for input on that or not?

I haven't picked a new fixture. The one on he ceiling is fairly new. I needed something that would give off a lot of light because that's the only one in the kitchen right now. The previous one was a dome that had the single screw in the middle, which I really don't like.

go with your gut. if you thought of it, it must be a look you are interested in. In your "minds eye" can you see it done? It will look better than you imagine. Go for it.

Is your current on over the island or the floor? if over the island is it over the one side?

Have you oicked out hardware and a faucet yet?

thanks lyn. I think I've decided to do the uppers and pantry on Antique white, the lowers and island in deep navy. I'm not going to take the cabinets to the ceiling because it's not quite level

I would change the countertops and paint the white cabinets first before you start in with the blue lower cabinets. You may be able to see at that point that the blue doesn't work in there.

I'm having them refaced so doing the uppers first isn't an option, unfortunately. The only reason I'm balking at white on the bottom is because I have people in the house who are not very careful about spills. And I couldn't find a stain that i liked. Because of the floor it would have to be something real light.

It's pretty hard to spill on lower cabinets. I wouldn't use that as a reason to avoid white.

Calidesign, you don't know my grandson. Peanut butter and jelly get spilled on the lower cabinets the most often.

For you to see:

Cypress Hills Drive · More Info

Cypress Hills Drive · More Info

Cypress Hills Drive · More Info

These folks chose green:

Riddargatan · More Info

Riddargatan · More Info

Riddargatan · More Info

White frig, and this muted color look ok together.

"The cabinets are SW6192 Coastal Plain (inspired by the color of the eggs), the door is SW2909 Redwing, and the walls and exterior are SW7005 Pure White... It's soapstone in a honed finish. The surface is not sealed or treated in any way and will darken over time with use."

Farmhouse Kitchen · More Info

• The mineral oils are used to accelerate the darkening (oxidation process), but are not required. Super heat resistant also. Only down side, it is soft and can etch, but you can usually remove any such marks with very light grit sand paper and a little mineral oil.
• PROwww.Natural-Stone-Interiors.com
  Soap stone is very soft though and very susceptible to scratching.

I like how they're mixing brass with stainless steel.

Lower Cabinets and Island-SW 6249, Storm Cloud
Upper Cabinets and Trim-SW 7004, Snowbound
Interior of Upper cabinets with glass-SW 6249, Storm Cloud

Farrow and Ball French Gray. Benjamin Moore's Moon Shadow is similar.

Monticello Drive · More Info

Here are two kitchen designs we did for clients. Notice the blue in both.

Julius Street New Build · More Info

Camelot New Build: Kitchen · More Info

A side point, but pro's post with blocks of 2 different colors [art] seems a contemporary approach.

yes the first of Bandd's images isn't quite my style but it is very nice.

do some simple trim work on that island panel so that it looks finished

And I strongly urge you not to use Antique White. Go w/Simply White. It will look better

Or, Cloud White. that's what they used here. The blue is Ocean Floor. notice how they finished off the island panel.

I had my cabs refaced and painted white. even I spill on the lowers. It wipes up easily enough, so don't worry.

remove the cab above the stove and do a proper vent hood that will match the cabs.

but please don't go w/a dingy white.

Alabaster would be the darkest white I'd use. trust me on this.

especially w/this color countertop. Don't do Antique white!!

beth, thanks for the tip about the white cabinets. Alabaster shows as yellow in my lighting so that's out. I've done all my trim in a very bright white so that may be a better match, even though the SW Antique White cabinets are pretty light.

if something is showing as yellow, and it's not actually yellow, then your bulbs probably are too dim. try a 4000 K bulb in the kitchen. anything warmer lends a yellow hue.

There is no way Alabaster is going to look yellow in your space, and not Antique White! I mean, look at the two together!

Paint a sample on one of doors! antique white is wayyyy too dingy. And against your white trim and white countertop? super yellow. you've been warned.

Do cloud white. like in the pic above w/the blue island.

and do you plan on doing some proper lighting? all you have is that center light. everything will look dim.

the cabinet company references SW as their colors but that shade of antique white definitely isn't the same as the sample I saw so maybe they're renaming the colors?

why would they? have them paint a sample for you on your door so you can see exactly what it looks like.

are your cabs a solid oak? real wood? they look very shiny.

are they spraying?

do they do a conversion lacquer?

what are their prepping techniques? very important to know this. have them tell you exactly what their process is.

are they removing everything to do back at their shop?

is there a guarantee on chipping and peeling?

i had mine painted a year ago. they did a very good job, but it wasn't cheap.

are yours costing more than 5K?

make sure they trim out that island for you. some simple 1x3 trim shouldn't take them long to do

This is actually a cabinet refacing so the doors come factory finished and then a laminate is applied to the frames. I'm reconsidering though because, by the time they do what I'm looking for, the cost is getting pretty close to a total replacement.

doors come factory finished and then a laminate is applied to the frames.

So, are the doors a laminate too??

so when you say they're doing a laminate, why? are your current cabs a laminate or real wood?

I had mine refaced and they are solid maple rails/stiles, and center panel MDF. my frames were sprayed on site.

to have all mine refaced was only an extra 2K. (i have 50 handles if that gives you an idea of how many cabs I have) Painting the cabs wasn't cheap, but an extra 2K for all new drawers and doors was a no brainer

and they removed all the rope trim, build me a vent hood, drawers, etc.

since you're refacing, have them build some boxes on top and take it to the ceiling. you'll hide the gaps w/crown

that's what they did here

If you're getting up towards a total reface, for laminate! , then you should look at other places.

who did you get the quote from? If you say lowes or HD, that's why. they're a rip off

what is the quote you got to redo your kitchen? all new drawers/doors, and what else?

My cabinets are oak frames but they're not plywood boxes. I wanted to have them taken to the ceiling but the contractor discouraged me from doing that because my cabinets are off level by about 3/4 inch from the corner to each end and I was told it was problematic, for some reason.

They are not repainting the frames. Instead, they are applying some type of material over them to match the factory painted doors. I called that a laminate but that may not be the right term.

It's becoming more expensive than I had planned for, 13k just for the cabinet reface, and that's not including countertops, backsplash, sink, painting or vent work for the range hood. Is that the typical cost for refacing?

If my cabinets were top quality, I wouldn't be doubting it, but they're not, and I'm having to compromise on a lot of things on my wish list.. My one splurge will be quartz countertops so I have to be sure that keeping my current cabinets is the right decision. I have consults scheduled with kitchen designers to see what the cost would be for new cabinetry.

13K to reface what's there in that kitchen?? whoa. that's out of line.

what company are you using?

you have 1/3rd the cabinets I do. I had my entire kitchen repainted, and completely refaced

let me show you a larger pic. (it included all of that desk area too. they made two doors w/the mirror inserts, built out the vent hood to custom fit, moved the micro and modified the wall space for it, removed old trim/fluted molding, replaced w/flat molding where needed, built those two drawers you see in the island, all new toe kick,

everything that you see that's painted white, plus the island, was refaced and painted.

Also this double pantry.

before and after of these

Oh, plus the shaker style I got is the 45 degree beveled edge. easier for cleaning.

All of what is pictured, plus the vent hood, making the two deep drawers on the island, removing all of the dated trim/molding and corbels, refacing w/solid maple drawer faces, and solid maple rails/stiles on the doors, all new soft close hinges, and a few other minor things, and I paid 15K. That's only 2K more and I got the vent hood, the wood trim in my island

And the company I hired is one of the top rated finishing cabinet guys in the area. He was more expensive than the others.

So, take your 13K quote for what you're getting (laminate overlay?? ) and factory finished refacing? What are the factory finished doors/drawers made of ??

The doors that I got were raw maple wood and my guys sprayed them to match.

If you're getting factory finished, how does that work w/your custom color choice?

Are these factory finished doors all wood/mdf center panel? or what are they made of.

Any way, compare what i've posted and shown you, and then compare what you're getting for exactly the same price. (actually my quote was 13K. For 2K more, I got all new doors/drawers. that's how much my refacing actually cost. 2K. the painting price was already included in the 13K quote, because I was going to have my solid wood doors/drawers painted)

hell, you could have a custom cabinet maker reface all of your cabs for half that price, and it would be solid wood.