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paris6836

Very difficult garden problem to solve!

5 years ago

Hi:

I'm not sure if this is is the correct category to ask this question? If not let me know where I should post.

I'm trying to figure out what to do in my backyard. I have a cinder block wall that had various vines growing from my neighbors side. He took the vines out which killed them on my side.

Now, what to do?

The wall faces East. I live in Sacramento. In the summer the wall gets about 6-7 hours of sun. The big problem is the cinder block planter box, which has a cement bottom! :s (photos attached).

Also, It's a problem that there's only 18" from the top of the cinder block box to the cement bottom. There's 17" of room (depth) from the back wall to the front wall of the cinder block. The length of the box is 26 feet.

I wanted to plant bougainvillea, roses or Japanese euonymus. The problem is no drainage; root rot; little room for roots to grow, roots getting steamed in summer since the box is all cement!

Any suggestions for the type of plants that might work as-is OR how to modify the cement box so there will be enough drainage and height for roots?

Thank you!



Comments (14)

  • 5 years ago

    i dont do CA... nor tropicals.. but bougainvillea comes to mind ...


    and you might want to work in pots. .in that trough of yours.. i hesitate to call it a bed ...


    but i have no idea about bougainvillea in pots ....


    ken

  • 5 years ago

    I would imagine there are some type of plant that don't require much water that would grow in your bed, but you would would need to fill it to the top with the proper medium. Perhaps you could visit a local garden center and get more information on what would grow there.

  • 5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    Are you sure your drainage issues are not related to the irrigation system? If you water by hand and not on a schedule, you could keep your plants healthy. Bougainvillea actually blooms better when the roots are crowded -- you just have to be vigilant about watering only after the soil dries out. Also, you can replace the existing soil with something like a raised-bed mix that's less moisture-retentive than real soil.

    OR, forget about the planter box. Fill it to the top with nice pea gravel, arrange pillows and knickknacks on top, and plant in containers -- the largest you can find (at least as tall as the planter).

  • 5 years ago

    it also struck me.. you might want to water blast and paint the wall.. before you plant any long term plants on it ...


    why decide to paint afterwards..


    ken

  • 5 years ago

    Thanks for the good ideas!


    I should have mentioned that, on Monday, I am having the wall power washed and painted a more neutral color (pyramid). I like the idea of pots but I have a few questions.

    I want a plant that will grow 6' or higher.


    How big should the pots be? How many gallons? There's room for a pot that's as big as 23" across the top.


    I would want a pot that's big enough so the plant doesn't need to be repotted in the future. I thought plants had to be repotted every so often, especially when they grow too big for the pot?

    But someone said Bougainvillea's like growing in areas with restricted root growth. Maybe that would work for me!


    Thanks!

  • 5 years ago

    I grow large plants (like this date palm that won't be repotted) in ficonstone containers from Rejuvenation. This one is 22" across and slightly taller. Very large with thick walls, but not as heavy, so you can still move them around if necessary.



  • 5 years ago

    Hi:

    Thanks for the ideas. I'm going to go with Debra's suggestion that I turn the problematic cement box (photos in earlier post) into a shelf that I'll put pots on.


    I'm thinking of something like Japonicus Euonymus Cone shaped. I love the way the Japonicus Euonymus Cone looks. For me the variegated (golden and green) leaves and most importantly the cone shape may work in the space.


    But I have a few questions.


    Are the Euonymus in the photos labeled "Cone" that shape because of the way they're pruned or do they naturally grow in a cone shape like a

    Christmas tree?


    The shelf I'll create will be 24" from the back wall to the front of the shelf. If I place the pot in the middle of the shelf that means there's only 12" between the wall and the middle of the Euonymus.


    Monrovia says it grows "quickly" to 12' tall 6' wide. Chollipo Euonymus (monrovia.com) Is there a problem with only 12" between the plant and the back wall?


    Most importantly can the plant stay in the pot for the next 20 years or will it need to be repotted?

    Thank you!

  • 5 years ago

    The euonymus is pruned into that shape. It doesn't grow that way naturally. And if it needs pretty frequent pruning attention to maintain that shape (and it will), you can keep it to a size where its proximity to the fence is not an issue.

    "Most importantly can the plant stay in the pot for the next 20 years or will it need to be repotted?"

    It will need to be repotted periodically, as will any container grown plant. Not only will the roots fill the pot in a couple of seasons and need to be trimmed/pruned but the potting media will also need to be replaced as it breaks down and collapses and compresses. Every 3-5 years for a large container; more frequently for a smaller one.

  • 5 years ago

    the most important thing in a pot is the media ... its a water management system.. and it wears out within a few years.. depending on how aggressively the plant grows roots in it ...


    and once it wears out.. you cant provided the requisite moisture and drainage .. and the plant dies ...


    ken

  • 5 years ago

    Doug, I strongly recommend visiting as many local nurseries as possible to get ideas (as opposed to looking online).

    Also, commit to a look/theme you like -- Mediterranean? tropical? Southwestern? Japanese? xeriscape? cottage? -- and stick with it. This will help you by narrowing your options, and the outcome will look less like a fix, and more like a design.

  • 5 years ago

    This is really bad news. Turning the cement planter into a shelf and putting decorative pots ... with a newly painted background wall ... on top of the shelf seemed like a great solution. But needing to re-pot every few years would not be good.


    How do people with 8-12 foot shrubs/small trees, in pots, like Japanese Maples re-pot every few years? It seems like it would be a major task!


    Maybe there's a service that does it?


    As far as nurseries, I have visited 2 and honestly you guys have been more helpful. I guess I can try a few more.


    Thanks for the input.

  • 5 years ago

    "How do people with 8-12 foot shrubs/small trees, in pots, like Japanese Maples re-pot every few years? It seems like it would be a major task!"

    It is!! Which is why I've decided to draw the line at increasing my collection of containterized JM's and dwarf conifers. The older I get, the less easy it is to accomplish :-) But even into my 7th decade, it's still doable.

  • 5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    Doug, don't give up too soon. Research plants that *tolerate* being root-bound. They may not reach their mature size (the container will have a dwarfing effect) but they will live for many years if you top them off with compost on a regular basis and make sure they are watered properly.

    I bet if you ask this question on this forum, people will be happy to give you examples. From my experience -- bay laurel, philodendron and dwarf date palms. A childhood friend had a philodendron that lived in the same (large) container for as long as anybody remembered. It was cared for but not repotted -- ever. So don't give up!