bumping this to get response. :)

Depending upon the climber, it may likely do well there. The light out in the center of the yard will pull the growth out into the yard, so you will need to keep directing it back to the wall. If there is any light penetrating through the trees over the wall, it will pull some growth through the trees into the yard behind. Growth pulls toward the light.

I have some climbing roses growing in much shadier spots than that, and I'm way north of where you are. So, I think many climbers should do fine there.

If you're worried you can look on HMF or Rogue Valley Rose's website to find roses that do well in relative shade...although that spot doesn't look too extremely shady to me.

I think Roseseek's observations are accurate, you'll need to control the growth if you want to keep it on the wall.

Which way does the wall face??? And how much sun shines on it?

I have planted no few roses against block walls like that, so I know there are pitfalls. My walls are south-west-facing and they can get a lot of hot sun. That reflects back against the plants and can really burn them. If you don't have that issue, OK.

Another issue is . . . How much of a footing does that wall have??? Does it extend outward from the wall? If so, you may have to take that space into consideration. Try to keep the roots away from the footing, as it can leach ?lime? which can cause chlorosis.

I have a 'Fourth of July' that has been against a wall here since its introduction in 1999, and it blooms it's heart out, despite a good deal of shade. I might think to stick to a single or semi-double rose, if there's a lot of shade.

Well .. I’m in the temecula area with a south facing situation exactly as yours . We have the sound wall and the park trees on the other side.

I just checked my compass on the phone and it is exactly south .

When we first moved here this wall bed was filled with trumpeter red roses . We also have palm trees and on the other side of the wall are some flowering mess and pines .

We actually looked at the house two years ago this weekend. The roses were fantastic and loaded up . I was very excited to yank them and put in my own.

So I did that and planted 40ish roses . I had big dreams !!

Unfortunately, the sun shifts and we get the strongest spring sun ( still not strong) so I did get a nice spring flush last year . But nothing after that the whole year and I watched and waited and fertilized and pruned palms the best I could . The roses just weren’t happy past spring . So most have been moved to pots where it showed the roots hardly grew ( dont forget I had palms too and they really seem to root thickly ) . They also grew out reaching for sun .

So if a spring show only with maybe some other blooms here and there will work for you .. it will work .

Honestly I was told the same thing but I needed to find out for myself. I only left 4 roses and only tamora is happy there . I have a pair of “ perpetually yours “ climbers on an arbor and it has grown to the top but no buds even yet !! Last year I got 3 or 4 flowers . ( of course I didn’t select roses for shade tolerance bc I wasn’t thinking of it .

I did just plant a Lyda rose in there and it has some buds so maybe it’ll work .

All this to say , it dosnt hurt to try ( maybe large pots but they prefer the ground ) and I always ask for advice but try myself too !

I’m looking for pics for you .

When we offered on the house

It was a very nice spring show .

Thanks a lot everyone for your response.

@jerijen The walls face north but since the backyard is in the southern part of the house, it gets sun the whole day. I am not sure about the wall footing situation. Thats a great point. I will find that out.

@Lilyfinch z9a Murrieta Ca Thanks for sharing your experience. Your bushes look lovely and I notice they are farther away from the wall than what I intended my climbers to be in. I will try to keep some pots and see how they grow. It hurts to leave out this extra space when I am buying roses mindlessly and running our of space where I can keep them.. ugh :(

Forgive me for being an absolute dunce about directions and the compass but if it gets full sun they will be happy . My bed right now gets mostly sun but the sun position shifts later in the season and gives shade. So really my advice may be terrible! And I’d say to you , give it a try . Worse is in two years you move them . Lol

also I had climbers as close to the wall as I could . I just don’t have pics bc they were not happy at all .

@lily please don’t be. I am really bad at explaining directions too. I hope i was able to give the right direction to you all.

Basically the picture that you see, the wall in it is facing north and i am facing south while taking a picture. Lol

I am not super sure how much sun would this area get in other seasons. I will try seeing how the rose containers would do.

You should try Don Juan. Mine is to the north of my house, and is in mostly shade to a little afternoon sun come summer.
Today's photos of my 7(?) Year old (it's leaning toward the sun), it smells divine and the blooms last a long time.
[My camera doesn't do blues, it is true red with dark edges]
Carla in Sac

Some of the David Austin climbers do well with partial shade: Claire Austin, Mortimer Sackler, James Galway.

My garden has a dozen trees. Tree' roots extend FAR BEYOND its canopy. In the pic. your neighbor's tree is too close to the wall. I would dig holes first to CHECK FOR TREE ROOTS, before planting. Trees' roots are hard to stop. Chopping them off is not enough, I put down THICK plastic guards .. roots went through that. So I used cement blocks (retaining wall), and roots went between the blocks (stacked on top of each other). So I have to do a second wall of blocks (dug down 1.5 feet). Then I have to do a 1 foot wide & deep trench. Then I put square patio blocks on top of the dug-down retaining walls to prevent rain water from seeping down. So it's 4 layers of protection to stop trees' roots:

double-layer of cement blocks, a deep trench, plus more cement patio blocks on top.

Even pots are not immune from trees' roots, they crawl up the pots. So I always put pots on top of cement blocks.

I agree with strawchicago that tree roots can be a problem, but it really depends on the type of tree. Some trees have aggressive roots and some don't. The best thing would be to find out the kind of tree and look it up in a database such as https://selectree.calpoly.edu/, which has data about the aggressiveness of that species' roots.

Also, I'd beware of cutting off significant tree roots even if they do come onto your property. You may have the legal right to do it, but it may damage or even kill your neighbor's tree; or make it unstable so it blows down in a storm, which could lead to legal troubles. I would definitely consult an arborist first.

CHECK FOR TREE ROOTS, before planting. Trees' roots are hard to stop.

**** Good point. We decided to expand an existing rose bed, and discovered that we have to work around roots from an old, old seedling avocado tree. It's apparent that those roots go WAY farther than we had thought.

The tree has now been heavily pruned . . . But the roots go far past the X point.

Oh wow! Thanks a ton @jerijen @slumgullion in southern OR @strawchicago z5

I had no idea about tree roots being that invasive. Yes, the neighbor's trees are very old and right behind the wall. So there is a strong possibility of the roots being on our end significantly. I will see what the situation is with the roots.

You can always make a raised bed for your roses. This would not only make room to avoid roots, but it would raise the roses up, further away from any footing for the wall.

And you could also ask the neighbors if they are aware of whether that wall has a footing. It'd be good to know.

Thanks @jerijen Can you show me an example of a raised bed that would work well for my situation? How high should it be, etc? Sorry I am a newbie and don't have any experience or knowledge of raised beds. :(

I have a 2 feet tall raised bed which is 20 feet away from the canopy of the tree, and the dwarf cherry's tree roots crawled up into this bed. Tree roots can extend beyond its canopy and CRAWL UPWARD INTO ANY RAISED BED. That's why I dig DEEP trench around raised bed to stop tree roots, plus rabbits can't jump over the trench. Raised bed doesn't solve the problem. What helps is to put thick patio-blocks down, then pots on top. Google and you'll see tree roots can push through a rock, rather than going around it.

Well, I've never seen tree roots do that . . . And in fact, in the photo I posted above, that IS a raised bed. We're just adding roses in front of it. That raised bed has been there for more than 30 years, and it's pretty clear that tree roots have grown UNDER it, but never up through it. It was made when we were younger and stronger, using river rocks, cemented in place.

Here is another example of a higher raised bed, with roses planted behind it. This was done very simply, using stackable blocks.

In your case, something like the stackables would be the front, and the bed would be backed by the wall.

The heavy rain here makes my clay soft enough to tree roots to go UP into raised bed. Another poster in NY (sandy soil) also reported the neighbor's tree roots went up into her raised bed. Tree roots in a high rain climate are much more aggressive than a dry climate.

I have lots and lots of roses and other kinds of plants planted at the base of trees, including in raised beds, and including trees with very aggressive roots (e.g. sycamores), and haven't had problems as long as I don't try to dig a hole right where a big tree root is.

I think RoseBeginner is in a dry climate? As are Jeri and myself...perhaps that explains the difference between what Jeri and myself have experienced (dry climate) vs strawchicago (wet climate), and suggests RoseBeginner may see the same results that we do...

Seriously, I would start by researching the type of tree to see if it is even a kind that is known to have aggressive roots, before starting on all kinds of physical engineering....and even if it is a kind with aggressive roots, I still probably wouldn't worry about it very much. I'd give it a try putting in a few roses, then after a few years decide whether they're doing ok or whether other interventions are needed.

I'd be more worried about the fact that the wall is a concrete block wall, which will leach calcium carbonate into the soil...I would make sure to choose rose types that do well in relatively alkaline conditions.

I also agree that the concrete block wall is a bigger concern, but because it will exude oven-like radiant heat far into the night Spring, Summer and Fall
Carla in Sac

What Slumgullion said.

You're right Carla, unless RoseBeginner is near the coast, the heat from the wall may be intense. In that case, having the tree shading the south side of the wall could be a big benefit.

Thank you all!!
I am roughly 15 miles away from the cost. Summers would be harsh, especially during the heatwave.

Yeah. We're maybe 3 miles from the ocean. Nowadays, our summers are not only dry, but dreadfully hot.

And then, there's drought.

Your climbers will flourish. I’m in 9a (Santa Clarita). A desert in all but name.

Here’s Raspberry Cream Twirl. In its 3rd year.

Flamingo Dancer from Burling, exquisite. Superfast climber.

It’s over the wall .

Good luck!

Does anyone know the hardiness of flamingo dancer?