Do you know what the pH of your soil is? Did you bare root it or plant it with the rootball intact?

It's close to 7 to 7.5. Planted it with rootball intact but a little loosened. Had to dig an inch to expose the root flare (trimmed a few roots in the process)

did i miss a pic of the whole plant in situ????

i would not expect a plant one month form the grower to be lacking any fert ...

i wonder if you put landscape fabric under the stone... interfering with movement of air and water thru teh soil ...

i wonder about retained heat in all the stone..

and i wonder about reflected heat from the wall... baking the plant that is stressed due to the transplant and minor root surgery ...

and i wonder if you are overwatering ... trees should NEAR DRY after a deep watering ... not stay soggy at 12 inches ... which also makes me wonder about proper drainage ...

ken

Nice Advice Ken))

So, did the problem correct itself? Any updates? I hate that when people come here and ask for help and then just disappear!

Still the same, it did not get worse though. Still waiting to see if there are any changes

Update: No improvements after two months. Fruits have gotten slightly bigger, but the plant looks weak. Leaves have lost their gloss. Zero new leaf growth. I tried foliar spray for micro nutrients, but didn't help.

Any ideas what I can do? Should I just remove all the fruits (there are about 6), and let it focus on root and leaf development?

Your tree is to small to support and feed grapefruit. I would remove them. The leaves won't improve but they still function and make food for the tree,

Thanks, I ll do that. Any other suggestions?

Just checked the PH again. It's more like 7.5 to 8.

Your tree can not access nutrients at ph above 7 and prefer around 6.5 PH or lower.

Other citrous trees near by are doing fine (blood orange and lime). Any suggestions on how to make it better: sulphur, acidic fertilizer, vinegar etc is what I have generally heard

I thought pH was the issue to start, what's the pH of your tap water? You can get a cheap pH of pen from Amazon for like $20

https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-0-05ph-Accuracy-Readout-Temperature/dp/B06XKMH86J/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=ph+pen&qid=1627246174&sprefix=+ph+p&sr=8-6

Use some vinegar to get water to around 6 before u water, others can help you for inground help to lower pH.....maybe aluminum sulfate? I don't have any inground trees.

The citrus leaf pattern for an iron deficiency is a yellowish green leaf with darker green veins. It is not surprising that your tree shows an iron deficiency growing in a medium with a pH of 8.

Thanks. Should I go for chellated iron or sulfur based acidifier or both?

acidify your soil with Sulfur product. you can also go to your roofing suppler an get a gallon of phosphoric acid ad add to your water to feed your tree. Once done your iron will come thru.

Steve

I honestly just think it needs some time to establish and grow roots. Could you have disturbed and/or damaged some roots when you planted it? Is it getting adequate drainage?

Root system was definitely weak to begin with for the size is the trunk (1.5 inch in diameter), plus I did some pruning of roots above the root flare. It's possible that it needs to establish. Which is why I was wondering if I should remove the fruits from it.

As for drainage, I water it once or twice a week with drip irrigation. I had added some garden soil and amend around the hole before planting. The water certainly drains, but it's possible that its clogged deeper since it's heavy clay. The moisture meter at one feet shows wet when watered and moist after a few days of watering.

My course of action now:
a. Reduce to watering manually once a week with vinegar, through the course of winter
b. Add chellated iron around drip line, to see if the plant is able to absorb and show immediate improvements
c. Acidify the soil with sulfur and check the pH after a month or so.
d. If no improvements from above, remove the fruits and let it establish on itself and see how it does next spring.

I am really looking forward to it showing some improvements.

Let me know what you all think. Thanks again

Feed with Ammonium sulfate. instead lf vinegar.

Steve

"Should I consider foliar feeding?"

- Yes, complete mineral fertilizer with trace elements. In the evening when there is no sun.

NPK 20-10-15 - This fertilizer is for growth.

NPK 15-10-25 - This fertilizer is for autumn.

"I tried foliar spray for micro nutrients, but didn't help."

- After that, there were spots on the leaves?

Do you know what kind of rootstock this tree has?

Do you know what kind of rootstock the Other citrus trees nearby (red orange and lime) have?

What are these, white stones?

I would replace it with granite.

"My course of action now:"

a. Bad option. Nitric acid is best, but IT'S DANGEROUS. A good option is phosphoric acid. (one may Ammonium sulfate, but this is a weak remedy. Use in conjunction with complex fertilizer NPK 5-10-25)

b. Bad option chellated iron (EDTA). Good option chellated iron (EDDHA) or (DTPA). Important. I do not see green veins on the yellow leaves. I think the problem is not related with iron.

c. A good option, along with phosphoric acid.