how abut a pic of the whole plant ..

all plants shed the oldest leaves... its cyclical.. and usually annual ...

any stress can increase such ..

yours was moved from grower to seller.. to you ... and we should presume it was stressed along the way .. not much to do about all that ...

just continue to water properly.. and focus on the newest leaves .. as long as those remain unaffected ... you should be all set ...

a damaged leaf that still have green continues to do its work.. converting light into energy ... so no need to remove them all to fast ... but when you get a couple new leaves.. just snip off the uglies ..

its stressed... not hungry.. fert is not a response at this time ...

one thing that has changed for sure.. is light level ... and you dont mention all that ..so we cant comment on such ...

just dont panic... water properly.. and give it some time to settle down ...

ken

The images don't reflect natural leaf senescence (aging). The likely cause is over-watering, which might or might not have occurred prior to you acquiring the plant. The other potentiality is a high level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil (solution). Sometimes, a reduction in light levels can cause fertilizer burn w/o any change in the level of dissolved solids in the soil solution. E.g., if a plant was grown in full sun or 30% shade cloth and fertilized at luxury levels, changing the plant to a full shade position or moving it indoors, even w/o adding fertilizer, can cause the existing amount of fertilizer in the soil solution to cause plasmolysis, a fancy word for fertilizer burn, but I doubt that's the issue here.

It doesn't much matter how dry the top 2" of the soil column is in determining when to water unless the pot is less than 5" deep. If a plant is in a 10" deep pot and the grower is utilizing a commercially prepared grow medium based on all fine materials, the top 2 " can feel bone dry to the touch while the bottom 6" of the soil column is still 100% saturated with water. So unless a pot is very shallow, the oft repeated advice to "water when the top inch or two of the soil is dry" is a recipe for over-watering. What's important is, how much moisture the soil at/near the pots bottom is holding. You can determine this by using a "tell" to tell you when it's time to water. It works far better than the digital device (finger) most growers use, or the common and inexpensive water meters which actually measure electrical conductivity, not moisture.

This piece offers some helpful guidelines for Growing Ficus in Containers in case you would like to look it over.

Using a 'tell'

Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant.

Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor.

In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water.

Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'.

One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue.

Al