Potting advice needed for giant aroid cutting

5 years ago

I purchased this cutting from a seller in Hawaii about a month ago. I think we all know that plants grow very large in the beauty of Hawaii. Well this "cutting" lived up to that expectation.

Here's a picture of when I received it. Banana for scale.

I put it in sphagnum moss in a vase and wrapped the top with plastic wrap to keep it damp until I could decide what to do with it. Well that day has come.

The growth point with the leaves is healthy and has even put out a new leaf. But the top of the cutting is drying and withering. The cutting has two sets of roots.

I'm just not sure if I should bury the whole stem trying to put both sets of roots into soil or consider chopping the cutting in half and only placing the top half in soil.

I'm sort of at a loss and hoping someone here with more aroid cutting experience could offer some advice and help me decide what to do!

Featured Answer

tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)

5 years ago

last modified: 5 years ago

The stem has leaf scars along it's length, which means there are dormant buds along its entire length. The top of the cutting is simply dying back to a viable node, which almost always occurs when you make a pruning cut through an internode.

If you look at the stub of this ^^^ ficus cutting, you can see it too is dying back to a viable node. You can even see where a collar is starting to form around the base of the stub. Any future pruning cut to remove the stub should be as close to that collar as possible w/o removing it. That collar will eventually roll over the small scar left where the stub is removed.

A very large scar which is mostly healed ^^^

I would cut the stem in half with a very sharp tool and dip the ends in fungicide, flowers of sulfur (drugstore), or cinnamon before potting the pieces/ propagules. Pot the propagule with the green stem so the bottom of the stem is at the soil line. Later, you will be able to remove the unsightly stub sticking out of the grow medium, or it might produce some additional bud breaks for you. The other propagule, the one w/o a stem should be potted at an angle so several nodes stick up above the top of the medium and the medium kept damp.

Why pot it at an angle: Perched water often occupies the lower reaches of the pot. Planting the propagules deep enough that the roots are submerged in the water that makes up the perched water table can deprive the roots of oxygen necessary for normal root growth. That's why a light/ airy medium is best, and 'damp'/ 'moist' are the operational words. Planting the propagules at an angle helps to ensure they will not be immersed in water. Cutting the propagule in half does the same thing.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (9)

popmama (Colorado, USDA z5)
Original Author
5 years ago
Al, thank you SO much. I had to read the instructions a few times. But I think I understand.

1) Don't worry about that withering node end.

2) Make a cut here? Add fungicide or cinnamon to the cut ends.

3) Then plant the piece with leaves at this angle, but making sure the roots are under the soil level.

Something like this:

Then take that second piece and plant it at an angle also with some of the leafless stem sticking out above soil.

I hope I got that right.

I'm so glad you took the time to answer! This one really had me stumped (no pun intended)!
Related Professionals
Athens Landscape Architects & Landscape Designers · Boston Landscape Architects & Landscape Designers · San Bernardino Landscape Architects & Landscape Designers · Greensboro Landscape Contractors · Dayton Landscape Contractors · Auburn Landscape Contractors · Santa Fe Landscape Contractors · Billings Landscape Contractors · Quincy Interior Designers & Decorators · Springfield Interior Designers & Decorators · Wilmington Interior Designers & Decorators · Newburyport Interior Designers & Decorators · Kalamazoo Interior Designers & Decorators · Pocatello Interior Designers & Decorators · York Interior Designers & Decorators
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
5 years ago
You got it.

I'd plant both at an angle unless potting the one with greenery at an angle makes the position of the green part look awkward.

Best luck. Let us know how you fare.

Al
popmama (Colorado, USDA z5) thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
popmama (Colorado, USDA z5)
Original Author
5 years ago
I will post a picture once I get them potted. Do you think it would be fine to pot them both together?
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
5 years ago
That would be great. You'll be able to easily separate them for several years going forward if you see the need or have the inclination.

Al
popmama (Colorado, USDA z5)
Original Author
5 years ago
Awesome! Thank you again!
popmama (Colorado, USDA z5)
Original Author
5 years ago
Here's my update. Last night, I made the cut with my sharpest knife and put cinnamon on the cut ends. I let the cut ends sit out overnight but I wrapped the roots in some sphagnum moss with plastic wrap just to keep them hydrated. Today I repotted both sides. Hopefully I did this right!

This is the leafless end. I potted it in a smaller pot and I decided that it could be in Houseplant Summer camp outside. This spot gets no direct sun but it will get watered each day, plus whenever it rains, and it's nice and warm outside for the next couple months.

It's planted at an angle with the root side about an inch under the soil level. The sphagnum moss on top is just for appearance and helps retain some moisture during our hot, dry days.

Here it is with its friends in Summer Camp.

I potted the leafy chunk in a larger pot because it needed more stability. It's also planted at an angle. It was a little tricky to get the roots in soil so they do sort of stick out above the soil line, but hopefully with time it will produce more roots under. I am also hopeful it will sort of "right" itself as it grows more leaves and stems at some point.
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
5 years ago
Looks good. Don't be afraid to use more sphagnum moss on the surface. It's important that the roots don't dry out. Sphagnum moss has been used as bandages during wars because it's absorbent and has anti-microbial/ anti-fungal properties. It also seems to stimulate rooting, which is why it's the favorite medium for air layers.

I'm glad for the auto-update feature so I'll be able to see how things go.

Al
popmama (Colorado, USDA z5)
Original Author
5 years ago
Before I put it in soil, the cutting had lived in nothing but sphagnum moss since I got it. I'll add some more on top. Thanks for the tips!