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Satco vs. Soraa LEDs

5 years ago

Any feedback on either of these brands? Comparisons would be great for those of you who have used both brands. Looking at PAR30 60 degree beams for recessed cans, prefer the short neck but okay with long neck, they don't bother me. I'm having a hard time swallowing $30/bulb for the Soraa, but if they're the cat's meow and I never have to replace them I'll suck it up and pay it. Satco is much, much less expensive so if a good quality bulb am open to that, too.

Comments (17)

  • 5 years ago

    Bumping -- anyone?

  • 5 years ago

    I tried many PAR20 bulbs before settling on a Euri Lighting bulb. The PAR30 version is the High-CRI LED EP30-4000cecws-2. Euri Lighting makes two other versions, the EP30-11W5020cecs-2 and EP30-11W5000cecs-2. Unfortunately, it appears you have to be at least 10 of those two (at least from Home Depot). Note that all these bulbs have a 40-degree beam but that was suitable for my recessed fixtures.

  • 5 years ago

    I have these Phillips warm dim, they've got a really nice soft dimming effect, but I'm getting hot spots/shadows, I definitely need a wider beam angle. I tried BR30 bulbs and those about killed my eyes, so I think the best I can do is a 60-degree beam.

  • 5 years ago

    I tried those Phillips warm dim and found the light to become far too yellow as they were dimmed.

    I tried R20s and didn't like them because the curved lenses were visible...but my eyes are still alive.

    I don't have any "hot spots/shadows" or know what would cause them.

    The light from 40-degree bulbs already reflects off my recessed lights' trim. A wider beam would, I think, just increase glare.

  • 5 years ago

    How far apart are your cans? The only other thing I can think of being the problem is they are short neck bulbs, maybe there wouldn't be as much of an issue with long necks - ?

  • 5 years ago

    The lights are 6' apart and the bulb lenses are about 2-1/4" inches from the edge of the trim. Euri Lighting does make some long-neck bulbs. Examples:

  • 5 years ago

    I ended up ordering the Satco long necks 60-degree beam. Will see how those work. Much as I would like 95 CRI, I just couldn't justify $50 a bulb for the Soraa when just under $9 a bulb should meet my needs just fine -- I'm not lighting an art gallery here... If I really don't like the long necks, I might order the Soraa shorts -- they're only $30 a bulb. Only...


    I'm curious to know what about the Soraa commands such a high price.

  • 5 years ago

    Soraa bulbs are amazing and worth the price. They have many varieties including some that dim down to a warmer temperature. They are notable for not flickering like some other LEDs do. I have then in my kitchen recessed fixtures. If you need to make the decision again, look online for competitive pricing for Soraa bulbs.

  • 5 years ago

    Thanks, I will keep that in mind. I've read reports of fake Soraa's on *m*zon so prefer to steer clear of there. Unless they have a Soraa storefront on the site. I'll poke around later tonite, wouldn't hurt to order a few to try -- but I need a minimum of 22 bulbs plus a couple extra for good measure; that would be at least $1100. For lightbulbs.

  • 5 years ago

    I got mine from 1000Bulbs and was able to pick up on site. They gave me a free box of masks with my order. You don't need any extra bulbs with Soraa. If you order again, only get the exact number required. https://www.1000bulbs.com/pages/shipping.html

  • 5 years ago

    Well cr@p I spoke too soon.. They're buzzing. Didn't notice earlier because I had the radio on, but now that the house is quiet I can hear definitely hear it. Switched them back out for the Phillips and no more buzzing, so it's definitely the bulbs. Back they go...

  • 5 years ago

    "Switched them back out for the Phillips and no more buzzing, so it's definitely the bulbs. Back they go..."

    Did you try the bulbs without a dimmer? In my experience, buzzing is caused by incompatibility between the bulb and dimmer. In my experience the Lutron LED+ dimmers (e.g., Diva and Maestro) are the most compatible.

  • 5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    No, both lines in there on a dimmer. I'm having dimmer issues already, I think they're Leviton, and the undercabinet dimmer buzzes -- not the lights, but the dimmer itself. Electrician couldn't hear it unless his ear was right on top of it, but I can hear it across the kitchen when it's quiet in the house (which is usually is). He switched it out for another Leviton, thinking it was a bum unit, but that one buzzed too -- so for whatever reason they're not compatible w/the undercabinets. He was going to switch them out for LeGrand Radiant dimmers, but the problem right now is he had a medical emergency and won't be back for another couple months, so I'm stuck with them for now. He won't be back before the return window for the Satco, so I'll be out the money if they still buzz - at least the Phillips aren't buzzing. With these dimmers anyway.


    The LeGrand Radiant is a newer line, I believe -- I sure hope they figured out the LED incompatibility issue...I've read the complaint about the buzzing multiple times, you'd think they'd have a fix by now.


    ETA: The dimmers don't buzz with the Phillips, either -- just the undercabinets, which I believe are GE. Weird...

  • 5 years ago

    The listing I saw for those bulbs said only 950 lumens and not dimmable. Most are 100 lumens or more per watt. At 13 watts these aren't making it.

  • 5 years ago

    By "those bulbs", do you mean the Satco or the Philips? They are indeed both dimmable.



    LED PAR30 Long Neck, 12.5W, 75W Equal, 1000 Lumens, 3000K, 60 Deg. Wide Flood, 120V, Satco S29436 | 1000Bulbs.com



  • 5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    The transformer in the light fixture has to be compatible with both your dimmer and your bulb to prevent flickering and buzzing. Soraa tests all levels of compatibility among transformers and dimmers with their bulbs and publishes charts to guide your selections. You first need to check which transformer you have and then make sure your dimmer and bulb (also called lamp) is compatible with it. It's not guesswork; you can actually find out this type of thing in advance to prevent lost work or purchases. I am sorry your electrician was not of better assistance there.

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