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Blood orange tree issues

5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago



Hi I have a blood orange tree that is showing yellowing leaves it was outdoors all summer. l live in western new york so it cant stay out for the winter. i repoted it in sept. thinking it was a fertilizing and small container issue it was a little root bound. im using foxfarms ocean forest soil with added perlite and jobes citrus stakes 3 in the container. im thinking it may be lack of iron. any suggestions would be appreciated




Comments (9)

  • 5 years ago

    Your tree needs a lot more light. The lower leaves need as much light as the upper leaves. Blood oranges and Meyer lemon trees are more sensitive to low light levels than other citrus.

    Steve

    Andrew B thanked poncirusguy6b452xx
  • 5 years ago

    I don't see an iron deficiency. With an iron deficiency the leaves will have green veins on an otherwise yellowish leaf. Yellow veins is related to nitrogen deficiency. In the last picture the leaves at the top of the tree with wide darker green veins is from a manganese deficiency. As to the manganese deficiency I would do nothing, as the tree will take care of that on it own.

    Andrew B thanked Silica
  • 5 years ago

    Yeah im trying to figure out what kind of light I need without blinding myslef: i was thinking about maybe another one of those lamps but aimed lower on the tree. Last winter i had it i another room with just the sunlight and it kept green and nice till i was able to put it on the deck for summer. I started seeing some yellowing towards the end of summer when there was still good sumlnlight on it. What other type of light could I use besides the big ones that are used for hydro set ups ?

  • 5 years ago

    My blood is still outside (will be until mid to upper 30s are regular - or threat of frost). But it has some yellowing leaves, but that's kinda of it's nature with changing light conditions. When I bring it in, it will shed a bit (though not as bad as my meyer), then settle in with new huge leaves in the reduced light.

  • 5 years ago

    I thought I should of bring it in. The highs have been in the low 50’s for a week now with lows in the low 40’s. It hasn’t been very sunny either had a lot of rain past couple weeks too.

  • 5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    I would definitely ditch the fertilizer spikes, they only really feed the part of the soil where they spike. If you want to go organic, use the jobe's granular, sprinkle it into the soil and mix it in. There are other granular options as well that work with container trees. I, personally, have never had good luck with the spikes. Another thing on the organics is that you need to be using an organic mix that's pre-innoculated with the microbes to break down the organic fertilizers. If you use a sterilized and non-innoculated mix you won't have the microbiome to break down and utilize the fertilizer. I know jobes pre-innoculates theirs, but some of what I've read has indicated that best results come if you have both.


    Part of the issue, as was mentioned could be the change in light. It sounds, though, as though the yellowing leaves started before you brought it in?

  • 5 years ago

    Yes I started to notice the yellowing when they were outside a couple weeks before I brought them in. Maybe too much rain idk. I have 2 other kinds of citrus fertilizer that I could prolly use. I have Dr Earths citrus fruit tree fertilizer I’m issuing that on my ponderosa tree and it doubled in size this summer and I also have Down to Earth citrus mix fertilizer. I was trying a couple to see which ones had better results. I really haven’t seen much going on with the jobes so yeah I prolly should dig those out.

  • 5 years ago

    This is the soil I’m using plus I added some perlite

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