Thanks much bill would you reccomend Dyno grow7-9-5?

Gosh Janice, I'm not familiar at all with that brand name. Sounds like some kind of low strength formula probably sold to "encourage" blooming, based strictly on the analysis. Sorry I can't help more.

Found it on afew forumsandan african violet farm website

Billsc, I so enjoyed your comment! So right on, lol, especially that last paragraph, oh I smiled!

Janice, re DynaGro 7-9-5. This is what I use because it contains a number of micronutrients that are not part of the water source I have. I use freshwater from the lake I live next to, and I bottle up many gallons of it to last me over the winter, for watering the AVs. Otherwise I would only have access to softened wellwater, or RO water I would have to buy from the grocery store. Not-softened well water would probably contain the required micronutrients, so I could just use a plain NPK formula, but what comes out of my tap is all softened. "City" water might likewise come from groundwater; maybe you have that? You just have to know what the origin of your tap water is, to know what it's likely to carry in it.

But even city water is softened in many households, and softened water is a definite no-no for many plants: the salts in it make plants incapable of absorbing nutrients in the soil/water, even if they're present.

For me, my *only* option is to use the natural soft water that is available to me, and to enrich it with Dyna-Gro. Another option would be the "Feed Me" orchid formula from Michigan State University. See https://www.repotme.com/collections/fertilizers (look for the formula that suits the kind of water you have, being aware that their RO/rain/tap water fertilizer might not suit *your* tap water - know your source and how it's been treated!).

For a more complete understanding of how to choose a fertilizer based on water source, please go to avsa.org and click on the "learn" link, go to "Violets 101," then drill down to the fertilizer FAQ. All these issues are thoroughly and efficiently discussed there.

I've been using Dyna-Gro for at least 18 months, with such extraordinary success that at least half of my collection are in bloom at any given time, and sometimes the proportion is up to 3/4ths of the collection. I find that there is no need for any "blossom booster" type of formulation.

Edit, backstory: I was using a plain NPK formulation with my natural soft water for several months, and I noticed that several of my AVs - probably the most picky/sensitive ones - were becoming unhappy. Did some research at optimara.com and elsewhere, which pointed me toward immediate action: #1, repot in fresh soil. (Former soil was probably not the problem, it wasn't that old, but it's always a first line of remediation when you notice ill health as in unhappy leaves, and you're sure it's not pests or disease.) #2, consider watering practices and especially fertilizer. AVs are definitely fussy about both. Mine are wick-watered, which I was hesitant to start doing because I'm Billsc's "I've had a greenhouse for XX years and worked in the industry" person, and this seemed to me like over-watering. But I set my past experience aside and opted for the advice of experienced growers, and danged if it didn't work. My problem was *definitely* with the lack of micronutrients in what I offered my plants.

Thank you for the extensive advise im a novice will AV and your advice is most welcome. what do you think abour optimara av plant food? Their formula is granula and time released.

The npk numbers seem to be on the whole pretty even. What im a little confused about is how aften should i water? i assume thst when soil is approaching dry? As an asside, im using distilled water which i use on all my orchids. i have well water but since our water table

Sorry about that i was using my mic on my ipad and everything went screwy. i was saying

That our water table is way down so i will onl distilled waterter. i have have three orchids in 2” pots which was obtained from the orcihid barn. since i wont be transplanting until 6 months, i wont be using self watering pots until then. ANY advise is welcome since Im a reletively an obsessed newbie. i started with one orchid now i have 12. When i move I will need a separate truck for my

Changing the subject slightly ... my mom grew African Violets when I was a kid; she always had a ton of them, and they really thrived. She always said the #1 necessity was Eastern sunlight.

Thank you

Janice, Ref. your post of 13 hrs ago.....Your subject shifted to orchids, and I'm a lot more comfortable with them than African Violets, so let me jump in with a suggestion. You mentioned orchids and "self watering pots" in the same sentence, so bear with me while I deliver my short "orchid 101" course.

There are basically two kinds of orchids, terrestrials,(grow in soil), and epiphytes,("air" plants) The epiphytes usually grow attached to a tree, or a crevice in a rock face, but usually high above the ground. The roots of these plants are really wanders, and grow among all the other plants, mosses, and lichens that live on these tree limbs and rocks. When it rains, these plants get soaked, but immediately after the rain they begin to dry, and other than dew at night, and the normally high humidity of their tropical habitat, they don't get soaked again until the next rain. We normally grow the epiphytes in medium that consists of sphagnum moss, or mixes of fir bark. (the most popular with home growers is usually the bark mixes. This allows one to thoroughly soak the plant when it is dry, then allow it to become nearly completely dry before watering again. Allowing an orchid plant to remain in a constantly wet condition around its roots is an almost certain invitation to a quick death by root rot. I would suggest unglazed clay pots with a bark mix for most orchids you purchase in the USA. There are exceptions to this basic rule, so you need to know what kind of orchids you have and modify your culture as necessary, but for epephytes, constantly wet roots is pretty much a consistent "no, no".

Bill

You are absokurey right abd sirry for the confusion what i meant to say is i cant transplant AV until 6 months and then it will be into a wick watering pot would you consider oncidiybs abd dendriviyns epiphytes

Hi Janice,

I have not used the Optimara formula. From reading the label it seems to be a basic NPK formula, better suited to watering with ground or well water (which some city water is, for those who have city water). It does not appear to have the extra minerals - calcium and magnesium especially, as well as quite a few other trace elements, that are absolutely essential if you're using distilled water. It's also very expensive to buy.

In your situation I would strongly recommend Dyna-Gro - very easy to get - or the MSU formula for RO/rainwater, from repotme.com. Of the two, Dyna-Gro will be the cheaper, and has worked so well for me I don't feel any need to go experimenting with anything else.

Joan

P.S. Janice, there is no "rule" that says you have to wait 6 months to repot your violets. I'd do it as soon as the plants reach a size where their root ball pretty much fills the pot and then move on to the next size up pot. Probably from a 2" to a 3," or a 2.5" square, before going all the way to a 4". (Edit: this is advice I was given by the famous Irina. Hang around or read enough on this board and you will see stuff from her: a true expert grower, knowledgeable about everything AV. So I feel like I should pass it on, and give her the credit.)

Be sure to read up on appropriate potting mixes. Wick watering systems usually require anywhere from 40-60% perlite. I've seen personal recommendations from other growers on everything in that range, I usually go around 50-60% and it works well.

Thank you so much! i will be sure to follow your reccommendations