Si me ha pasado te recomiendo la guia de cuidado de plantas https://www.idplantae.com/cultivo-de-plantas-de-0-a-100/

Try watering with filtered water and make sure it's lukewarm

l understand this post is a year old. If Prakash still has his trees, it should be helpful, if not, A) I already have most of the info saved as word documents, so it takes but a few minutes to post the info. B) I know people regularly search for resolution for problems they are dealing with in their own plants, and come across threads like this one.

The cause of chlorotic foliage is far from being linked exclusively to over-watering. Over-watering, under-watering, a high level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil solution, nutritional deficiencies (especially of nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, or magnesium), nutritional toxicities, soil compaction, root congestion, inappropriate irrigation water, natural senescence (aging), low light, too much light (especially sudden increases), low temperatures, sudden chill, insect herbivory, disease pathogens, and more, are other potential causes.

The key element supporting the over-watering theory is not that leaves are yellowing; rather, it's due to the fact the plant presents evidence of a physiological disorder called oedema/ edema. I'll leave something about that below.

The best course forward should include making sure you're watering correctly, getting watering intervals under control, and making sure the irrigation water is appropriate. (Is the water you use for the plants routed through an ionic exchange water softening system [uses salt])? Fertilizing regularly should also be a part of the care regimen, Watering about every 4th time you water in winter and about every 3rd time in summer, with an appropriate fertilizer (Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 is an excellent product for trees and houseplants). If you still need help or more clarity, just ask.

About Oedema

Oedema (aka edema) is a physiological disorder that can affect all terrestrial plants. It occurs when the plant takes up more water than it can rid itself of via the process of transpiration. The word itself means 'swelling', which is usually the first symptom, and comes in the form of pale blisters or water-filled bumps on foliage. Under a variety of circumstances/cultural conditions, a plant's internal water pressure (turgidity) can become so high that some leaf cells rupture and leak their contents into inter-cellular spaces in leaf tissue, creating wet or weepy areas. Symptoms vary by plant, but as the malady progresses, areas of the leaf turn yellow, brown, brown with reddish overtones or even black, with older damage appearing as corky/ scaly/ ridged patches, or wart/gall-like bumpy growth. Symptoms are seen more frequently in plants that are fleshy, are usually more pronounced on the underside of leaves, and older/lower leaves are more likely to be affected than younger/upper leaves.

Oedema is most common in houseplants during the winter/early spring months, is driven primarily by excessive water retention in the soil, and can be intensified via several additional cultural influences. Cool temperatures, high humidity levels, low light conditions, or partial defoliation can individually or collectively act to intensify the problem, as can anything else that slows transpiration. Nutritional deficiencies of Ca and Mg are also known contributors to the malady.

Some things that can help you prevent oedema:

* Increase light levels and temperature

* Monitor water needs carefully – avoid over-watering. I'd heartily recommend a soil with drainage so sharp (fast) that when you to water to beyond the saturation point you needn't worry about prolonged periods of soil saturation wrecking root health/function. Your soil choice should be a key that unlocks the solutions to many potential problems.

* Avoid misting or getting water on foliage. It slows transpiration and increases turgidity.

* Water as soon as you get up in the AM. When stomata close in preparation for the dark cycle, turgidity builds. If you water early in the day, it gives the plant an opportunity to remove (for its own needs) some of the excess water in the soil.

* Put a fan in the room or otherwise increase air flow/circulation. Avoid over-crowding your plants.

Getting Watering Intervals Under Control

Using a 'tell'

Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant.

Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor.

In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water.

Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'.

One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue.

Al

More frequently, brown spots are a good sign that you've been overwatering the plant but with rubber plants, this is rarely due to a dry plant. Although brown spots are usually associated with a dry plant, scorching or underwatering, with a rubber plant can be a common sign. Local citations

Brown spots on rubber plant leaves can be caused by over-fertilization, especially after adding vermicompost. It may have stressed the roots. Flush the soil with water to remove excess nutrients. Also, ensure proper airflow and avoid direct harsh sunlight. Monitor watering and check for pests or fungal infections

There are many potential causes of necrotic leaf spotting in ficus, but that really isn't helpful.. Images of the spots can help determine the probable cause, and an outline of your care regimen might also be helpful:

How do you decide when it's time to water"

What grow medium are you using?

What Fertilizer product are you using? Include NPK %s. How often/ how much?

Do you use any type of supplement or add anything for nutrition other than fertilizer?

Al