If the leaves were wilted and the soil column was completely dry to the bottom of the pot, it's logical to believe the plant was under-watered; however, if you did not determine whether or not the soil column was completely dry, you can't be certain the wilting was due to under-watering. This, because over-watering and/or a high level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil solution (water in the soil) can also cause wilting. Also, lyrata's leaves are heavy and often assume a pendulous attitude, and, it's well known that leaves of lyrata, after having wilted, are frequently unable to regain their former attitude (can't return to their former spatial position after wilting).

Your best bet would be to flush the soil thoroughly, get the plant started on an appropriate nutritional supplementation program ASAP, and get control of your watering intervals by using a "tell" (see below).

I did notice the tree's basal flare (thickening of the trunk at the root to shoot transition) is buried beneath the grow medium. This should be corrected.

If I can assume you potted the plant up (as opposed to a full repot which consists of bare-rooting, root pruning, and a change of soil) you should plan on doing a repot in June if you live in the Northern Hemisphere. Where you live is important information and should be included with every post in which you're looking for guidance.

Hopefully you'll have questions, as I provided an outline with little in the way of specifics re most topics.

Some of the damage on leaves is due to mechanical injury and some damage is a manifestation of past (or current) physiological issues.

Using a 'tell'

Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant.

Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor.

In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water.

Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'.

One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue.

Al