If the hoses are in the way, you'll have to cut into the wall to re-route them. As for that totally illegal electrical box, it needs to be surface-mounted, which probably would take up too much room, or it needs to be mounted in the wall like an electrical receptacle. If your new dishwasher is hard-wired, you can make the connections in that box after it's properly mounted; if it's a plug-in, you'll need to add a receptacle to the box. Bothe of the quotes seem reasonable...if they are competent to do this.

All dishwashers in the states are now required to have a cord with a plug. The outlet is typically located in the sink cabinet so it can be easily accessed by a repair person. The plumbing connections are usually made in this cabinet as well.

The gray line appears to be the existing dishwasher's drain. If so, it needs to loop high to the top of the cabinet wall, not low as it is. kudzu9 is correct.

@kudzu9 Thanks for the response. I went ahead and order different dishwasher today and wait period is 2month from now which gives me plenty of time to do the project. I have outlet which is being used for garbage disposal on the left of the photo (Can't be seen on the photo). The new dishwasher I've ordered plug in type. The one they delivered hard wired which was returned. So I am thinking about put a cover on that junction box, cut drywall, and put it in the drywall. but still will be powered due to this one has same connection with Garbage disposal outlet, and refrigerator. Thank you.

@HALLETT & Co. Thank you for your response. I found outlet under the sink which is being used by garbage disposal, and bought different dishwasher that has plug today and will be delivered in two month. Thank you!

@Joseph Corlett, LLC Thank you for your response, in that case, I have to make a another route near top area, any suggestion which tools need to be used??? Thank you

I'd use a Roto-Zip.

For a one-off need to cut drywall for a box, a cheap steak knife will work just fine.

If you just want to buy a new power tool, for the sometimes DIY homeowner, I would suggest an oscillating multi-tool instead of a Roto-Zip.

I almost always agree with Joseph.

Check the electrical code in your jurisdiction. The dishwasher usually needs to be on its own circuit, and can no longer share with a garbage disposal, for example.

That would be advice and that DW that was hard wired could have easily been changed to aplug but that electrical box cannot stay there spend the 450 get it done right and to code .

A couple things (U.S. not Canada):

- All dishwashers come as standard the ability to be "hard wired." As Hallett said, recently NEC has required (which may not have been adopted by your AHJ yet, but will be eventually) a DW to be plugged in via cord to a receptacle that is easily accessible in the adjacent space. So for any DW, you buy a rated cord (3' to 6.5') and "hard wire" it to your DW. You do NOT have to buy a different DW for this. You run the cord through the cabinet hole to under the sink to a receptacle.

- As latifolia said, this receptacle should be a dedicated 15A to the DW. You do not want to have the refrigerator and garbage disposal on the same circuit as it exists, even if you had a 20A.

- This receptacle is required to be GFCI per 2020 NEC. Again, probably not yet adopted, but will be eventually, so if you are wiring, might as well comply. And you probably understand a refrigerator on GFCI is a potential risk, but again a single circuit should not be shared by the DW/ref/GD anyway.

- The existing wiring in the DW space may or may not be to code, but it is certainly sloppy for sure. Code is up to local interpretation about what wiring is subject to damage. Behind a screwed-in DW most inspectors might say the exposed, loose cables are ok. Other inspectors may want the cables to at least be stapled out of the way instead of loose hanging, or be fully in the wall. The junction box though, needs to be permanent and accessible, so moving the existing box up into the wall may not be enough. Realize if an inspector would allow a junction box behind the DW, then they are saying that the area is accessible, thus cables can be subject to damage, so all those cables need conduit or put inside the wall. All this should be verified with your AHJ, but since you are altering the wiring the better thing for you to do now is put the cables in the wall, move the junction box to the sink cabinet, install one new dedicated GFCI receptacle under the sink for the DW and one for the GD, and run a cord to the DW.

- The DW drain needs a high loop, however it does NOT have to enter the sink cabinet up high. You can keep and use the same power cord/water supply hole locations down low - but inside the sink cabinet you loop the drain up high before you connect to the sink tailpiece.

I don't think most inspectors would pass a receptacle box lying loose under a dishwasher given the dangerous situation it would create if there was a water leak.

@3onthetree Thank you for your detailed information, we just moved in this house and since this area(Seattle, Bellevue, Issaquah, Sammamish), we had to waive everything in order to buy home we wanted. Luckily, we did not put 300-500k on top of listing price like others to win the bidding war. Previously, old DW was installed after we purchased this house, and inspection was conducted, I don't think inspector noticed this when he performed the inspection, I would look for licensed electrician to meet the Electric code requirement in my area, however, it sometimes kind of tough to find one without getting referral. Once again, thank you for your information and time!

ci_lantro Thank you, I will look into that!

A house inspector is not (usually) a licensed electrician. A good one may know the code, if they can see the area. For example, most would not pull out the dishwasher to see behind it. Generally they're looking for evidence of leaky or failed windows and the like.

Glad to hear you plan to hire a licensed electrician. Some people take a "code, schmode" attitude. It's unfortunate, and can backfire if, for example, there's a fire and the insurance company discovers negligence on the part of the homeowner.

The appliance store may have the name of an electrician or ask at your local builder's merchant. It's a small job, and they can sometimes squeeze it in between larger jobs.

FYI if you are in the Seattle area, the high-loop method will not be enough. Local codes require an airgap. A lot of people install an air gap to pass inspection, then take it out, change the DW drain to high loop, and then place an air switch for the garbage disposal in the former air gap hole. Might as well figure out how you want to handle all of that before your dishwasher arrives.

@mcarroll16 Previous Owner paid contractor to get the job done, before we moved in and all they did is wrong I am assuming, they installed new Garbage Disposal, and New Sink in the kitchen without Airgap. Does this mean, everything needs to be re-done?( Garbage Disposal, New Kitchen Sink, Air Gap, etc?)

You will probably need to do an air gap if you are getting an inspection. But you don't actually need to redo the garbage disposal switch. I brought that up so you know your options. You could leave the air gap in place. You could also replace it with a soap pump. Sorry the previous owner & contractor made such a mess of things!

"Previous Owner paid contractor to get the job done, before we moved in and all they did is wrong"

Or he paid his brother-in-law in cold beer, which he consumed before doing the work! Hard to believe a licensed contractor/electrician did this work. Sorry you have to deal with it, but glad you're getting it sorted.

Several times we have hired licensed electricians who have felt a permit was not required for the particular work they were doing. It's worth asking.

Air gaps are stupid and useless. A high loop accomplishes the same thing.

He is saying garbage disposal, and refrigerator and dishwasher on same circuit. Refrigerator needs to be on its own circuit too. It sounds like a bit of electrical needs to be done there.

@mcarroll16 I was told from my colleague, having a airgap is not required if you have garbage disposal in Washington State, what I experienced during buying a house lately, people even look at the house in-person, but buy property which creates bidding war. For example, there was really old house we looked at, with entire siding needs to be done, which costs at least $200k-300k for starting, was sold $500k above asking price which made us speechless. this house had open house and there was line to get in at least over 200-300 teams showed up each day during that open house. I am not saying this seller market will last forever. I have tons of stuff needs to be fixed, since this is our first house, I am so happy to have this house, but at the same time so stressed out.

@cat_ky so, DW, Garbage Disposal, and Refrigerator need to be all separate circuit?

where can I find these information?

@latifolia We have a biggest project needs to be done which is "SPIRAL STAIRS in the middle of Living room" my son and I feel fine, but my wife says she is scared going up and down stairs.

Yongberg, I truly hope you are correct! We're remodeling next month in Bellevue, and our designer said we would need an airgap. Local code says the same thing. But I would love that to not be true. I'll be sure to double check with our contractor and fabricator before the countertops go in.

Yes, local market is truly insane. It really doesn't matter how run down the house is, because the land value alone is stratospheric.

@{Yongberg} l U.S Life 용벅 you can view the basic codes here--WA more or less adopts the International Building & Residential codes wholesale. https://codes.iccsafe.org/. 

State amendments are available here: https://sbcc.wa.gov/state-codes-regulations-guidelines/state-building-code. 

For city amendments, check your city's building department's webpage. I know Bellevue has all local amendments posted there. I don't know what other King County departments put online.

@mcarroll16 It is great to meet you. We have been looking for Architect Designer and construction company lately since we moved in. Haven't found one yet, Would you recommend yours if you don't mind? Thanks for the links you provided!

Sure! I'll see if I can figure out how to send messages through Houzz.

Sorry, I can't figure out how to send a message through Houzz. Not sure about the etiquette of posting individual names on Houzz. If you can message me, I'll reply with our designer and contractor, and another contractor that I really liked but ultimately didn't go with. I don't have an architect name as our project didn't require one.

I am guessing your city can tell you what is code and what is not in your area, but, it has been code for many many years, that they all have own circuit. It was required for refrigerators, before there were even a lot of dishwashers being installed. The housing market seems to be the same everywhere. Prices are going up every day.

I'm drafting an email for you now. I've got your address posted into my email program. So you can delete now, if you don't want your email up on a public website for the spambots to find.

Thanks kudzu9! Would you mind helping me out with specific instructions on how to send a message? I found another post from several years back and turned on "let anyone message me." But there's no link or button I can find to start drafting a message to someone.

mcarroll16-

That's the easy part, as long as someone has messaging enabled. Just click on their screen name: if they have messaging turned on there will be a button showing that says "Message" in the upper right corner.

Ah, thanks! I feel a little silly now. I was trying to initiate a message from my inbox, like I would with an email program.

Not silly...Houzz makes this whole messaging business needlessly opaque and the message option doesn't get turned on by default, so people who haven't turned it on don't have that "Message" button, and often don't know about it or how to get it turned on. I've wanted to message some people in the past, but couldn't because they aren't set to receive messages and there was no easy way to tell them to go fiddle with their settings.