I think you have to trim off the parts with no foliage and leave what foliage you have. The bushes will grow more new canes and look great in 6 weeks or so.

For the smaller one that would be most of the plant to cut back with no foliage. Would it grow back and bloom this year???

Yes, it will grow and bloom as things warm up more. What variety are those?

They are Sevillana roses , so I should cut them all back without foliage? Or will leaves grow as it gets warmer?

It does not look like the canes that do not have foliage are dead they just do not have any leaves (yet) so do I still cut those back as well. Sorry just want to do this the right way.

Saturn

Are you sure? Some of those don't look very alive to me... Have you tried cutting into them at all to see what it looks like inside the cane?

You can tell if a cane that has not yet pushed out new green growth is alive or not, but not making growth yet, by looking at the pith of a fresh cut. If the pith is any color other than a creamy off-white color, something like caramel to brown colored, that section of cane above and at the cut is dead/soon to die.

Moses

Thanks to all for all your help I will check the canes and cut back the ones that look dead after seeing the color inside

Lastly of the canes with no foliage should I cut them halfway back or all the way back to the stem of the plant

Saturn

I think that depends on how the inside of the can looks. Have you cut into any yet?

Frank,

You have Sevillana one of the healthiest roses on the market regarding vigor and disease resistance. It's an ADR winner, a tough European rose trial that really puts entered roses through their paces. I remember when Meilland, the French rose breeding establishment introduced Sevillana back in the 1980's. It took the market then by storm as the perfect, disease free shrub rose in its flower color and bush form. The deep burgundy/bronze shiny foliage is a perfect background for the electric red/orange blooms.

When a rose breaks dormancy in early spring, the buds at its canes' tips are first to grow because of apical dominance, even if the cane's tip is coat hanger thin. Unfortunately, that vigorous growth has to be pruned back to a location below the cane's tip that is at least pencil thick (thicker is still better, but pencil thick is still v. good), and also shows healthy, creamy white pith. At that healthy, thick point on a cane there may be no starting growth at all below the cut.

Have no fear! There are dormant buds there that will shortly kick into action and begin robust, healthy growth that will have a thick cane from whence to emerge, which thick cane can support the new growth very well, and keep it from flopping over when the flowers come.

After you finish pruning, you will see what looks like a disaster. So much of the bush's cane tip end growth is pruned away. The remaining well pruned bush looks like it was over pruned. It wasn't! Sometimes I prune back 2/3+ of last year's growth (dead canes, crossing branches, spindly growth, tip growth above the pencil thick location on the cane), but in no time it is apparent I did the right thing.

Enjoy your Sevillana. I planted one for a cousin over 30 years ago, and by its 2nd. year I couldn't believe how magnificently it grew and bloomed, especially since it was growing in very poor soil, but it was given good care by my cousin, was generously mulched (like yours are), and was growing in full sun.

Moses

A few cuts to show pith

Eh, could you try again? The cut is out of focus on every photo. But again I think you should just be braver with your pruning.