Hide the transformers at the back of the top shelves.

SuperBrightLEDs.com:

• 120V LED Strip Light - White Highlight Series Tape Light - Plug and Play - 5m / 25m - High CRI - IP65 Waterproof
• GIZA LED Strip Channel - Architectural - Aluminum Surface Mount 2m

Thanks for this. Looks like a great solution. Is the casing needed or could I just use the strips? I’m assuming the casing just provides a more finished look.

Greatly appreciate the share

How does a 120V tape light with an integral cord solve your problem? Now you have to have a receptacle to plug this 120V tape light into. How can you hide a receptacle and plug within the confines of a 1/2" light valance? The reason direct-wire fixtures are not so slim is because it is also acting as a junction box to house the 120V wiring connection while offering protection for the wires within the fixture.

Also, I question the code compliance of an unprotected 120V fixture that can be cut with scissors. This article is a bit old, but especially read the part on "Wiring:" https://www.ecmweb.com/national-electrical-code/code-basics/article/20897204/nec-rules-for-installing-lighting-on-circuits-greater-than-30v

Notice the tape light sold by SuperBrightLEDs is not UL listed. Such is the conundrum when ordering global parts, just because a product is sold somewhere doesn't mean it is code-compliant or safe.

You have a whip sticking out of the wall waiting for a fixture. Bore a hole in the cabinet, push the whip up into it, and install a receptacle. Then you can install thin low voltage tape lights and hide the transformer in the cabinet.

Also, under cabinet lighting is predominantly accent lighting. If you are relying on it as your main task lighting, then you need to address some ceiling fixtures for function.

@3onthetree: "This article is a bit old, but especially read the part on 'Wiring:'"

The Wiring section would seem to address cord-connected LEDs beginning with the text, "A luminaire can be cord-connected if:"

I didn’t notice the UL rating, or lack there of

Those lights looked like you could cut them and then there is a hard wired add on

We have pots in the entire kitchen, plus an overhead pendant. These are simply task/under mount lights for additional lighting

Looks like I need to keep looking for something low profile.

Thanks,

I used:

• RibbonFlex Home 16 ft. AC Dimmable LED Tape Light Kit
• RibbonFlex Aluminum LED Tape Light Flat Channel and Diffuser System Mounting Hardware

The transformer is small. You could put it, say, inside a cabinet and drill a hole for the wires.

The main reason I would assume why all direct-wire fixtures would be 1" thick or greater is because it will have a 1/2" knockout to make the direct-wire connection for 120V and it's internal AWG sizes, so the 1" thick allows that cable connector to fit onto the housing. So the size is the result of following NEC on manufacturer wired lumenaires.

If you are stuck for some reason with a direct wire fixture (whip too short or something like that) then maybe look at a new valance. A picture of why the valance, or a face frame if that's what it is, is so short may bring up some ideas.

@wdccruise the section of NEC 410.62 I was getting at was the "listed" requirement of having a cord-connected fixture. The 2011 NEC that was referenced in the article I linked to (sorry was lazy so just said it was an "old" article) was revised in 2017 to include 604.100(c). Section 604 covers manufactured wired lumenaires, and the fixture linked to sold by Superbright looks to be a bit thin in wire cover to allow cutting with scissors, on 120V. Which I would guess why it is ETL listed and not UL listed. I find most electrical products originating in (designed and meant for) China for sale there or to the E.U. to only be ETL listed, never being able to meet UL listed standards.

@3onthetree: "I find most electrical products originating in (designed and meant for) China for sale there or to the E.U. to only be ETL listed, never being able to meet UL listed standards."

From what I've (just) read, UL and ETL standards are basically the same. In addition to certifying products, UL develops the standards it uses for certification. ETL doesn't develop standards; it uses the UL ones.

A transformer need not be in the cabinet or valence area; it can be almost anywhere and the wiring brought to the cabinets. The wiring may need to be fused and properly protected* against damage, but it can extend some distance between transformer and lighting. Note that door bell wiring is 24Vac, as is thermostat wiring, and those wire paths are typically long.

* "Protected" means, for example, not leaving a wire-pair accessible somewhere that could end up bearing the load of having something hanging from it.