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Knotty Pine Rehab Help Please

3 years ago

I have 1960's or 70's knotty pine tongue and grove paneling on my 4 season, fully insulated and heated, porch. It houses our farm coats, boots, dog supplies, and fridge. I want to freshen the paneling. My new fridge comes today and I will be getting a new flooring tile soon, luxury vinyl. I know from past experiences the new floor will make me want to tear out the paneling! But this old house probably has cracked plaster under the paneling, and may be why my inlaws put it up years ago.


BACKGROUND:

The paneling has been knocked about over the years on our working grain and livestock farm. I think the finish is polyurethane, as alcohol doesn't soften the finish. When DH gets back from the hardware store with some lacquer thinner, i'll be able to check if it has a lacquer finish. I gleaned these finish tests on another thread.


Because this room is a real mud room, I'm not interested in painting it, as the wood pattern disguises the nicks and dirt. Though, as a last resort I may change my mind and paint it. In my previous remodeling of rooms in this house, I have painted before I got the other things installed, such as cabinets, tubs, & sinks. A lot of planning allowed me to paint first then install. I am the messiest painter there is! This time I think I'll wait until the floor is in, to decide for sure if I use poly or paint.


PLAN:

What I want to do to maintain the wood look, is to clean the paneling very well, lightly sand all of the surface, but not down to bare wood then apply an oil modified polyurethane over all the paneling. BUT when I spot sanded a few spots, the wood is lighter. I don't want a polkadot finish. There are some windows and cabinets in the room that will be painted a trim color TBD. And of course the new floor covering.


Hard hand sanding of the paneling left lighter wood exposed:


QUESTION:

Do I need to knock the whole finish down to bare wood and start from there to apply the oil modified poly to have an acceptable finish?


This is the wall that the new fridge will go up against. I will caulk, prime, and paint the ceiling a ceiling white. The ceiling has the old fake paneling that is probably covering old plaster:


Comments (13)

  • 3 years ago

    If you choose the right flooring i dont think youll feel you need to change the paneling. Something like a near black slate


    enduring thanked sheloveslayouts
  • 3 years ago

    I like that floor Sheloveslayouts! What brand is that floor?

    I have a real black slate in my bathroom nearby. I like dark floors. The color I am stumped on is that I have a greenish fake slate floating floor in my kitchen which I love but I'm taking it all out to make the 3 rooms that come together all one color. And it will but up against a real, black slate in the bathroom.

  • 3 years ago

    Its just a google image of a “1960s slate”, i think. Are you settled on LVP rather than just carrying on with the tile you have?

  • 3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    The tile I have in the bathroom near by is brazilian slate, so sort of soft. The bathroom had joists added to accomodate the natural stone flooring. I tiled it myself and am very proud of the job. that was 10 years ago and Im 10 years older. I don't want to do any flooring work myself anymore.


    The kitchen & office have an old click together floor that I bought at the Habitat Restore 12-15 years ago. they are 2 different styles. One looks like natural red oak and the other a greenish brown gray. My kitchen is colored using that tile. Now I want to change all the floors to match. The porch floor is over 50 years old and starting to separate a a seam. You can see the old porch floor in the pic. I believe the new flooring will go over this old floor on the porch if I understand my installing company correctly. Or I could have it glued down.


    I considered a porcelain tile but I don't want that in the kitchen. On the porch it would work but the cement stairway to the basement will have the last step be higher than the other risers, and I worry about tripping. Porcelain Tile would raise the floor about 1/2" I think.



    This is the flooring I think I might get. Adura. The rust color is stronger, like the walls, and the blackish color isn't this prominent -this pic isn't a very good color rendition:


  • 3 years ago

    Are the basement stairs just exposed concrete right now? Stair safety is #1 in my opinion so youre right to be mindful of that.

    enduring thanked sheloveslayouts
  • 3 years ago

    I can't find a flooring that has less variability. This is a bit over the top for me.

  • 3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    I know LVP is all the rage right now, but if your existing floor is sheet vinyl you might keep an open mind about sheet vinyl and see if theres a black slate look product.

    if youre concerned about the flooring transition into the bathroom, check out sheet marmoleum.

    In 2015 i was overwhelmed with flooring options. Went with (wood look) sheet vinyl in the kitchen + mudroom. The way my spaces are laid out, i dont have a seam. Im very happy with it.


    Forbo Marmoleum in Slate:



    enduring thanked sheloveslayouts
  • 3 years ago

    It doesn't change finish with denatured alcohol. I have lacquer thinner Ill try next. But I think its probably polyurethane.

  • 3 years ago

    My paneling is now tested with the suggested alcohol and lacquer thinner. The paneling has lacquer in 50% of the room and Poly on the other 50%. Alcohol didn't touch the surface. Lacquer thinner did make parts of the room sticky. These areas looked different too. The poly area must have been done at another time to spuce things up? It is shinier.


    I don't know if I want to sand the poly down to bare wood. It is such a job. Is there a chemical product that can remove the poly? I dont want the dust in the home. I have access to a sander that I think has a vacuum attachement to it. Is that an option?

  • 3 years ago

    I still am thinking about the floor tile, but looked up some of the options listed above. I ordered a few samples from Coretec. My installer has that line. I want to stick with the installer I have lined up because of their long history of providing excellent lumber service to our community and my own excellent installations over the last 8 years.

  • PRO
    3 years ago

    It doesn’t look like there is any stain, just a clear finish. I would attack the worst board with 220 paper in an oscillating sander to lightly smooth the surface then put on a coat of poly. That might be enough to get everything to blend without making the project bigger than it needs to be. I would rather deal with some dust than stripper…

    enduring thanked HALLETT & Co.
  • 3 years ago

    Ok, so with the lacquer panels, do I just sand down to bare wood before poly, or can I just scuff the lacquer and put poly over it?


    With the poly panels, just scuff and reapply fresh poly?

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