Finishing unfinished engineered white oak with LOBA products

3 years ago

First, the Pros-especially @G&S Floor Service and SJ McCarthy, but many others, on here have taught me so much, and in owner building our home, I owe many of my successes to your sound, careful advice (refinished doors, building/finishing cabinets, choosing stains.finishes, etc..)We are in the final stages—the floors. After tons of sampling, we are going with Loba A.T products. For numerous reasons, we purchased square-edge, unfinished engineered, live sawn white oak. Salesperson said, “Yeah, give them a quick buff before coating, but they don’t need a full sand on install.”

Of course, we have a few questions.

Not many pros around our area who have installed/ finished such a product. Several flooring blogs say do not use any grit below 220 on unfinished engineered floors. Any recommendations on best tools and grits, screens, etc. for once they are laid before they are coated? Pole sander? Trio orbital? What about screen/buff before final coat?
As many of the HOUZZ posts illustrate, Loba has plenty of conflicting info online about timing/numbers of coats. We will be using Loba 2K InvisibleProtect AT for first coat. 2K Supra AT SATIN for last coat.

One place on their website says we only need two coats total with AT. But then they have some directions that also (and pros) say three. Which is it? (We are tough on floors...)
We want a satin finish, but the natural benefit of the invisible. (All my tests, this one altered the tone the least.) Do you have an opinion on which order to lay three coats if we do three? Inv AT, Inv AT, Supra AT Satin, or Inv AT, Supra AT Satin, Supra AT Satin? And based on suggestions elsewhere, is there a benefit of doing, Inv AT, Supra AT semigloss, then Supra AT satin (to avoid too much white additive) but end with a Satin finish? That sentence looks like a logic puzzle doesn’t it…
Final words on How long between whatever sequence of coats we choose…before next coat? And do we Buff between all…?

Thanks again. You’re bringing me into the home stretch!

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Keen B
Original Author

3 years ago

Update for anyone arriving late... 1 coat Loba Invisible AT, 2 coats 2k Supra AT Satin. LOVE this stuff!

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Comments (7)

PRO
G & S Floor Service
3 years ago
Congratulations on making it to the final stage of your renovations!

To answer your question regarding two versus three coats. It is always recommended to do a minimum of three total coats for a water base system. It can be any of the combos:

1 seal and two top coats

1 stain and two top coats

3 of the same top coats

or

A Frankenstein system with 1 top coat from brand "A" and two top coats from brand "B". Of, course this can be the same brand but with two different product lines.

A couple of exceptions where a thrid top coat should be considered.

High traffic areas

Contractor applies below coverage

Do you have an opinion on which order to lay three coats if we do three? Inv AT, Inv AT, Supra AT Satin, or Inv AT, Supra AT Satin, Supra AT Satin?

If, Invisble can be applied evenly, go ahead with two coats of Supra AT. If, Invisble cannot be applied evenly, you may need two coats of Invisible instead of one, then two coats of Supra AT on top afterwards. Which makes it a total of four.

If, you are doing a whole house refinish. I recommend doing one coat per day. This will allow each coat plenty of time to dry and have all the chemicals off gas. This helps prevent bubbles and nibs in the next coat.

With the Frankenstein system you are using. i would abrade in between each coat for the smoothest result. Light abrasion with 220 grit for the first coat and a more aggressive abrasion with 220 grit prior to the final coat.
Keen B thanked G & S Floor Service
Keen B
Original Author
3 years ago
@G & S Thank you. Yes, we've been building our own home (DH is in the Biz) but the closest LOBA dealer to that area is 300 miles away. My greatest concern is the prep of the engineered before the coats. I don't want to take off a ply!
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dan1888
3 years ago
Contact the manufacturer about prep before the first coat.
Keen B thanked dan1888
User
3 years ago
This is where it PAYS to spend the money on a pro. There is no recovery for a badly sanded engineered job.
PRO
G & S Floor Service
3 years ago
Unfinished engineered flooring always need some sanding. Unless, you want to live with over and under wood, glue spots or contaminants under your finish. You will need sanding. The sanding will need to start at 80 grit and then progress to 120 grit. Doing the bare minimum with just a screening will not give you a flat and good looking surface.

I once gave into a client to do bare minimum sanding on a floor. They purchased pre-sanded floors, which the client installed themselves. I regret it after the seal coat was applied. Client complained about glue spots and over/underwood, which required a much more aggressive sanding to address these issues. Never will I do it again. I will walk away next instead.
Keen B thanked G & S Floor Service
Keen B
Original Author
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
@User As I said in my question, no pros nearby familiar with unfinished engineered. But you are right.

Thank-you, @G&S.