I have had excellent results with 4' LED lights. After I tried one fixture, I immediately went back to the store and bought enough to replace every fluorescent in my 3-car garage with these fixtures. Part of my garage is used as a wood shop and these provide excellent illumination for my projects. They also can be set to motion-activated, so I have two of them set up this way so I don't have to fumble when I come into the garage late at night with my arms full. They provide better light than fluorescents, they don't flicker when it gets cold in the garage, and I have yet to replace any of the bulbs after about 5 years. The brand I bought was Koda, and mine were about $30 apiece. However, they are popular and often out-of-stock on the Koda web site, so you may have to do some hunting. (They are available on eBay and Amazon from resellers, but at unreasonably high prices...like $100+.)

Thanks @kudzu9, I took a look at the Koda lights and it looks like they are plug in models. I should have mentioned that in looking for lights that can be direct hard wired into ceiling light fixture boxes. I think in just a little hesitant on integrated LED light bars as I would have to replace the entire light when the bulb goes out. I've had a number of regular LED bulbs die, way faster than the advertised 50k hours. Are the larger integrated LED fixtures more reliable than bulbs?

I used explosion proof fixtures in my garage.

I have had LED's in my house for 5 years and still haven't had to change a single bulb. (Hope I didn't just jinx myself.)

We used the same high quality recessed light that we used in the rest of the house.

LEDs are pretty good now and much nicer than fluorescents. My builder scoffed at them 8 years ago when we provided them but changed his mind after installation. And I bet the ones out now are even better.

I like this Lithonia CPANL LED light which can be surface mounted to the ceiling. It comes it various lengths, is dimmable, and at about $100/each appears to be reasonably priced. These Commercial Electric 4' x 10" "Wraparound" lights are an alternative at only $550 for eight BUT they require a 0-10volt dimmer and additional wires if you want to be able to dim them.

Here's another: Commercial Electric White 6 in. x 4 ft. FlushMount Light W/Color Changing CCT.

How much light do you need? T5HO fluorescents are very close to LEDs for lumens per watt, but they are very bright, which is great in my shop, overkill for the garage. They are on all day, every day and I've yet to replace a bulb after 9 years. For less intense lighting I'd probably get the 4ft LED shop lights from the Costco or home depot, figuring that the ones that come out in 5-10 years when they need replacing will be both better and cheaper. Plug-in lights are a lot easier to swap if you have a premature failure, though it's easy enough to hard wire lights that come with a cord, it just seems wasteful to throw it away, but similar quality plug in fixtures are often much cheaper than hardwire ones for some reason.

If you're doing things like finishing in the garage it's worthwhile to pay attention to CRI (color rendition index), and to pay more for a CRI in the 90+ region. If the fixture or bulb doesn't specify CRI you can be sure it's only 80, which makes for pretty wonky colors. This is independent of the trmperature rating of the bulbs, which range from very yellow to very blue in both high and low CRI bulbs

For woodworking you definitely want a mix of general and task lighting. I have a wide array of gooseneck fixtures at workstations and also track lighting with spotlight bulbs aimed at certain machines.

The very inexpensive 6" white remodel recessed can lights may be paired with an A19 standard screw-in led 17.5 watt bulb for 90 CRI and 1600 lumens. 8 of those spaced out would be over 12000 lumens. The Feit bulbs are from Costco with 15,000 hours life. A 4 pack is under $10. The 4' strip lights mentioned above are 1900 lumens each.

An A19 LED lamp without a heat sink is only 2.4" in diameter and has a small driver that is very sensitive to heat resulting in a 15,000 hour lifespan or less if it's in a recessed fixture. A more efficiently designed LED fixture should be rated for 50,000 hours.

Presuming that you're conditioning the space at least some of the year why have all the extra penetrations in the ceiling that cans require? I'm not sure of the requirements, but would expect that each penetration needs to have some provision for fire blocking in a garage. Unless you have a lot of cans the light tends to be uneven, not good for the general illumination in a shop-- your task lighting that you can control the angle on should be the source of raking light to allow you to see surface textures and imperfections. I'd stick with surface mount fixtures.

Recessed lighting is allowed by the IRC in a 5/8” type X GWB garage ceiling below a habitable space since it's not actually a fire rated assembly but it would be wise to avoid such penetrations if only for greater protection from CO from an idling vehicle.

Spray foam insulation is helpful too.

Not a very good photo but I have 4, 8’ LED fixtures to illuminste a 2-car garage. They were around $100 each when purchased. Really good lighting

"We are used to the 4 ft fluorescent light bars that are plenty bright. Is that still a good choice?"

The mercury in flourescent lamps can be difficult to safely clean up if a lamp breaks and the lamps are inconvenient to dispose of safely. In an unheated garage they may be slow to light and may remain dim. There really shouldn't be any in your home.