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matthew_swanson

Deciding on wood trim

13 years ago
I'm struggling with what type of trim to put in my house. I'm trying to keep the design very clean and have been trying to give the house a bit of a contemporary bend by keeping stair treads square and flat and using shaker three panel doors like those posted here. My stair railings will be a wire and wood hybrid. I want to pick the right wood trim to match this style. Unfortunately my contractor has given me quite a low allowance, as usual. I have 8 foot high ceilings but really like many of the pictures I see with a thicker baseboard. What type of wood trim would your use to achieve a clean contemporary look? Would it be weird to do one style wood trim on the first floor and upstairs hall and a different type on the bedrooms to save money? Please help me find the right look. This house is killing me.

Comments (17)

  • PRO
    13 years ago
    last modified: 13 years ago
    The more economical type of trim would be just a square edge peice of trim cut from 3/4" thick peice of solid poplar wood boards. They are easy to make, very modern and you can make them any height you like.
  • 13 years ago
    Would that be cheaper than pine? I priced straight pine today And it was double my budget.
  • 13 years ago
    Poplar is usually pricier than pine here in Maine, but check around.

    There are different grades of pine, so if you're willing to put the time in on priming and painting multiple coats over knots (and touching them up later if they bleed), you may be able to get away with a 1x4 or 1x5 number 2 grade of pine, which should be cheaper than Select (knot-free) grade.

    MDF might be another possibility, although I don't really care for it as a material and it's pretty soft.

    Maybe go find the nearest lumber mill (not lumber yard, they're the middle man) and see if they will sell direct to you?

    It's amazing how much these little details cost and how much it adds up. I'm also in the finishing stages of our cottage and it never really occurred to me that I'd have to buy all that baseboard...and door trim...and closet doors and poles...and doorknobs....etc. etc. etc.!
  • PRO
    13 years ago
    If you are painting you have a couple of options besides clear pine and poplar. I've used finger-jointed clear pine jamb stock (available in 20' lengths if necessary). At 5/8"X 4 9/16", it works well in an 8' ceiling room and then will have reveal against the square edge door casing...I recommend 1X4 door casing in a simple miter corner or picture frame style (1X4 is 3/4"X 3 1/2" net dimension). The same size jamb stock is available in MDF (shudder). pre-primed. Both are less costly than 1X6 in any solid material and when painted, look great. Just can't really get myself to do the MDF thing...
  • 13 years ago
    Sorry, I say PHOOEY to Ironwood and Noreaster who sounded exactly like my contractor when he pooh-poohed my choice to put in MDF crown moulding. My painted dentil MDF/compressed fiber moulding looks fantastic and I defy anybody to see the difference between my wood dentil moulding and my MDF dentil moulding. My contractor sort of harumped but conceded it looked excellent and was very easy to work with. There is some sort of male chromosomal issue with men and wood!!
  • 13 years ago
    Keep your trim the same size throughout your home. The amount of savings would be minimal. Most of the cost is install, not the wood or MDF itself. And I think thicker baseboards always look higher end.
  • 13 years ago
    Matthew, is this a solid wood door in your picture?
  • 13 years ago
    Thanks for all the input. Still on the fence. Definitely going thicker on baseboard. The door pictured is mdf. I'm going to have to look into all these ideas! Is the idea that pine boards will chip and debt easier a load of bull?
  • 13 years ago
    Well, mcbriec, I'm a woman, so there goes your theory!

    My problem with MDF as baseboard is that baseboard takes a beating (vacuums, toes, etc.) that your crown would not and it dents quite easily. Of course, so does pine, but it's a bit easier to fill and sand.

    Just MHO...plenty of good ideas here Matthew, so I hope you find a good deal that works for you.
  • 13 years ago
    Sorry, don't agree with MDF being soft and not easy to fill and sand and repaint if needed. Painted MDF baseboards and trim are fine.
  • 13 years ago
    Mathew: I did a quick google on mdf versus pine baseboards and there's a lot of good info out there. I did see this one article about lessons learned working with MDF baseboards that might be useful for you:

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?199922-If-you-are-using-MDF-Baseboards-casing-please-read
  • PRO
    13 years ago
    Consider using 5/8" thick baseboards and 3/4" thick door casings. You will like the way the door casings stand proud of the baseboard. I would use simple painted poplar everywhere.
  • 12 years ago
    Watch out for finger jointed trim. The finger joints on my casings are visible and of course ended up at eye level. I'm wondering if there are different qualities of finger jointed trim. If not I would steer clear of that for the casing around your doors. It might not matter as much on your floorboards. If you don't mind the gassing out from the MDF, you can use it for crown moldings. Our builder used everywhere in our house and I hate that stuff. I have so many dings on my trim I can't stand it!
  • PRO
    12 years ago
    It is really subjective. We have used mdf quite successfully for 14 years. Have it in our office and vacuum cleaner has not done any damage. Only have scuff marks which shows up on any painted trim. No breathing issues and always install on drywall over wood studs. Have also installed poplar, oak and fjp. Seen solid material twist & bend. Have also seen the finger joints appear-Kilz is recommended primer for that issue. So believe that any product has it's issues and it's fans. It may just come down to your budget.
  • 10 years ago

    Great discussion - I'm struggling with how thick the poplar should be. Too thick - not easy to clean. I like to have 3.5'' for trim and 5.5'' for baseboards - square edge modern poplar trim and baseboards. Would appreciate an advice on thickness - 1/2 or 3/4 or something different? Any rec for which primer is good for poplar? Cannot find a primed one.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Reviving this discussion: We have a 1920s home with nominal fir 7 1/4" baseboards elsewhere. For our kitchen remodel + 1/2 bath addition, our architect spec'd 2.5" x 3/4" square edged poplar as trim and baseboards.

    The GC says he'll use finger-jointed poplar. I can't tell if this was the architect's intention.

    Is finger jointed suboptimal around kitchen windows above a sink and cooktop? We trust the GC but don't want to be stuck with unglued joints in 5 years after a few steambaths.