" My husband thinks we should remove the tile and carpet and stain the concrete until I am ready to replace the entire downstairs with hardwood. "

The cost, mess and finished look of a 30 year old slab that was not meant for a finished floor will certainly make you wish you had not thrown that money away. The prep work alone will be a big dollar item without even getting to the finishing expense.

Thank you both for your comments! Very helpful as I wasn’t thinking from those angles.

How fussy are you? How crazy is a mismatch of varying degree going to drive you? Regret for spending money will abate; the floor isn't going anywhere.

I see no reason why you shouldn't be able to patch the floor and refinish. The issue with refinishing thinner engineered flooring is that higher spots could be sanded through, exposing the glue that binds layers together and the next layer that runs perpendicular to the top. If you sand through a dozen spots on the floor, it's likely nobody will even notice. The product is a three-ply, so the plies are thicker, giving a better chance at a successful refinish. If your contractor has a hard time finding a product to use for patching, there's a company in Dothan Alabama called Howell Hardwoods that makes this older style peeled veneer flooring.

Have you thought a bout unfinished for the new and just having it stained to match the old then no issue with how much sanding the old can take . I do this often for clients.

Id take the husbands idea of replacing all with hardwood. whats not to like about that...he knows its the best long term scenario. I dont think the grain or the stain on the existing is anything you will miss.

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Get a new engineered floor for ALL of it.

Engineered hardwood IS real wood, it is simply pre finished.

You're on a slab, you make certain it is a level slab, and you put in new flooring.

" Engineered hardwood IS real wood, it is simply pre finished "

There is unfinished engineered as well.

True that: ) !!

Just most often purchase pre finished, as otherwise unless unable, you'd sand on site with a non engineered wood? Sorry lol, lots of basements here in the N.E ! and not nearly as many slabs.

These are fabulous replies! Experience is so valuable.
I’ve showed this post to my husband and turned this one over to him to make the final decision. There’s pros and cons to each option.

Forget the lacing. Rip it put and start new. Many don't think about the bevel in an existing floor. It would have to be taken out completely..and with a Bruce 3/8" engineered, forget it.

Reasons are explained in the video below.

And what looks to be some leftovers is probably more trouble than it's worth. Is that stored in an attic?

Based on your floor layout. I would remove the floor in the area that is labeled stairs, all the way back to where the partition wall seperates the kitchen and living room. Then start the new flooring from there. Forget the lace-in.