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cmichellewin

Heating and cooling crawlspace?

2 years ago

We are in TN, and our house (built in 2010) is on a crawlspace. We’ve never had any issues with our floors or air quality, though my dad did once mention it was a little humid down there and we might think of getting a dehumidifier. Well, we had a water leak that forced us to replace the floor on the first level of our home. Our contractor—clearly without doing any humidity testing on our subfloor—recommended solid hardwood, which we unfortunately agreed to, not knowing how difficult it was to deal with and how unstable, finicky and annoying. 🥲

Well as soon as they were installed, the brand new floors became cupped (raised on the sides of each floor board). Apparently our crawlspace is currently around 70-80% humidity. So not only are our super expensive new hardwoods ruined, we have a brand new 10-15k expense in order to *hopefully* keep them from cupping again after they’re resanded and refinished. Needless to say, we’re a little frustrated. 😓

All of that being said, my question is—apparently we have two different ways of fixing the humidity issue in the crawlspace. One is with a dehumidifier and one is by installing HVAC vents to heat and cool the crawlspace. We try to use our AC/heat as little as possible to minimize our energy usage. Same reason we have a hybrid vehicle and use LED bulbs. Just trying to do our part. It seems ridiculous to me that we would use energy heating and cooling a space we do not live in. Plus, in spring and fall, there would be no airflow since the HVAC will be mostly off due to the nice weather. What do we do about humidity then, because it of course rains a ton in spring?? I’m just quite confused about that as a recommendation, and I can’t believe people would waste energy not to mention money to heat and cool their crawlspaces.

I’ll have quotes back from 2-4 vendors in the next couple of days that I’d also love opinions on. Thanks in advance for any help or explanation or suggestions!

Comments (5)

  • PRO
    2 years ago

    Obviously he’s paying for all the flooring repair costs since he didn’t test the humidity.

    I’m in savannah Georgia so a similar climate. How is your crawlspace finished currently? Just dirt? Vapor barrier loose on the surface? Completely sealed with vapor barrier up the walls?

  • PRO
    2 years ago

    Best practices for remedying wet crawl spaces are well documented; see https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/insulation/fixing-a-wet-crawlspace_o In our mixed-humid (coastal VA) climate,

    I find that supplying conditioned air from the living space at a rate of 1 cfm/50 SF of living area obviates the need for a dehumidifier, provided there is an adequate soil moisture vapor retarder in place and storm water is appropriately managed to direct it away from the foundation.


  • 2 years ago

    @hallett currently 6mm vapor barrier on the ground only, over gravel

  • 2 years ago

    CR Homes, how to supply conditioned air to crawlspace without resulting in negative pressure in the structure interior? Surely you don't put a return in the crawlspace?

  • PRO
    2 years ago
    last modified: 2 years ago

    @Elmer,

    I've been building homes with "unvented" (sealed, conditioned) crawl spaces since 1999--long before they were allowed by prescriptive code. I don't know where the adults were when the prescriptive code requirements were written for unvented crawl spaces. Section 408.3 of the 2108 IRC requires a return air path for air supplied to the crawl. The last thing you want to do, in my opinion, is to introduce air that's been in the crawl space back into the living area. I don't do it. I'd rather live with the modest negative pressure resulting from continuous air flow from the living space to the crawl. Let's do some numbers: Let's say a home constructed over an unvented crawl space has 2,500 SF of living area. The required ventilation rate for the "unvented" crawl is 1 cfm per 50 SF of living area. 2,500/50 = 50 cfm. That's the flow rate you expect from a powder room vent fan in a cheap townhouse. If the ceiling height in the living space is 9 ft. , then the indoor air volume is 2,500 x 9 = 22,500 cubic ft. The 50 cfm flow rate would result in a single air change in 450 minutes (7.5 hours) By contrast, the maximum allowable air infiltration rate per code in my climate zone is 3 air changes per hour at 50 Pa differential (ACH50) which is a total of 22.5 air changes in the same 7.5 hour period. I can live with that.


    E.T.A. The above calcs are for a single-story 2,500 SF home. The flow rate is based on the area of the crawl.