I'd consider IKEA 36" drawer units for bottom cabinets where possible. Door and narrow drawer lowers aren't as functional. An induction range like a slide-in Frigidaire or Bosch industrial with a 36" exhaust hood to replace the existing appliance. 4" led cans 6" in from the edge of the counter for task lighting need to produce minimum 450 lumens at the counter surface.

olive green seems too dark for space shown. but you will obviously get more light when door is placed. Id spend on a lighting plan /do the door insertion before anything remove fan too. You want to get lighting before choice of paint colors for large project like your idea. Personally I'd probably want to work with those cabinets and wait for a bigger replacement project. the medium oak seems ok ......cant identify from your picture what " not best shape" really means.

They’re just super moldy.

mold hides and grows but the onset usually has to do with moisture. Id be more inclined to deal with the moisture problem first. Is it an active problem ? or has the moisture creep been adressed and halted? If you dry something out cleaning can work. but if the mold has made the cabinets unstable due to wood fibers broken down and degraded I'd look at replacement. Again we cant really see "super moldy" from your pic. Did the inspection make a comment. Mold can be a health problem.

I would first try to clean cabinets with bleach. It kills mold.

Then I would paint with white matt ceiling, walls with off-white. Then paint cabinets with white or off-white but lighter than walls, so they do not look dingy.

Some option

You don't want to paint til you have addressed and remediated the mold. Even then, I would not paint oak - the heavy grains shows through.

As for olive cabinets....I think it would be dark. I do not like it .

Just to compare

If you're trying to get a more upscale look:

• I would consider replacing the cabinets with IKEA cabinets. IKEA cabinets are very reasonable and will look (and perform!) much better than painted-over cabinets, especially if you don't have it done professionally (or at least using the same processes & materials professionals do).
• I would also eliminate the over-the-range MW and replace it with a true hood -- either standalone or under a cabinet. But. get a decent one; it doesn't have to be a top-of-the-line hood, but it should do a decent job. (Ideally, it should be 6" wider than the cooking appliance and 24" deep, especially if the hood isn't flanked by upper cabinets on both sides.)
• You seem to have enough room on the far right for a coffee/tea center and a MW either sitting on the counter (in the corner) or one on a shelf under an upper cabinet in that area. with the refrigerator there, it makes a good place for the MW since most MW'd foods come from either the refrigerator or freezer.
• You didn't say, but if you're planning to add an island, be sure you have enough room for decent aisles all around the island -- see the next several points.
• You should have at least 42" b/w the handle on the oven and the counter overhang on the island. The same b/w the counter overhang on the sink perimeter run and the counter overhang on the island.
• You also need at least 44" behind the island with no seats on the back b/c of the door & doorway there. Where does the door lead? If it's a pantry or other seldom-used area, then you may only need 36". You might be able to fit a single seat on the end of the island (opposite end from the sink/DW end).
• The aisles around the island assume there is no overlap with the refrigerator. If there is or the refrigerator is close to the island, be sure you have at least 42" b/w the refrigerator's handles and the island overhang. If there's room and I were putting an island in, I would probably have it start b/w the door and doorway and continue to near the end of the range perimeter run -- assuming it doesn't interfere with whatever is beyond the Kitchen. If it's Family Room or Dining Room, plan for 54" or more b/w furniture (e.g., sofa, table) and the end of the island, especially if it's a table.
• If the Kitchen is the only place for eating (i.e., no other table space or separate Dining Room), I would stick with a table, not an island. Tables are more flexible and the seating is more comfortable in the long term.

Honestly, I would question whether all the mold was removed and not rear it's ugly head later. I would rather replace the cabinets and not have to worry about it!

Have you checked for mold in the rest of the home? Six (6) years is a long time to be sitting untended and, likely, without climate control (e.g., air conditioning).

You can only clean the mold from the visible surfaces. The cabinets would have to go and I would need to be sure that whatever caused the mold had been completely fixed.

The cause for the mold has been fixed and other areas with mold have been cleaned intensively or are being replaced.

Okay - given that the mold has been erradicated and the cabinets are left in a paintable condition . . . Why Olive Green?

You have multiple things that need to all coordinate and look good together. The flooring in the kitchen, the flooring in the family room, the countertops, the cabinets, the walls and the trim.

Does the family room flooring look good against the kitchen flooring? What color is the kitchen flooring when clean and dry? Show us pictures of the two floorings together.

Are you keeping the countertops? What counter are you choosing? How does the counter work with the flooring in the two rooms? Only after that decision is done will you look at paint colors for the walls and cabinets., then after the wall and cabinet color is selected you pick a white that works with everything above (floors, counter tops, cabinets and wall color)

I would be worried that mold has infiltrated the wood or has grown behind the cabinets. Wiping the surface won't affect that. If you are certain it's been eradicated, then you will still need to paint the cabinets to seal them with something like Kilz or similar to seal in any mold spores before you paint with your preferred color.

Where does the refer go?

I think lots of us imagine olive green as been dark and dull. But there are some greens that lean toward olive that would be pretty.

I like this wall color with the green cabs:

Your kitchen needs a bit more lighting, and also some new bulbs in the older lightning. Try daylight type bulbs Led at least 3500, and I would prefer 4000. Once you get some more lighting in there, give the ceiling a good coat of bright white paint, and pick your cabinet color. Make sure you use a bonding sealing primer on your cabinets, after you thoroughly clean and sand them. Painting cabinets is a lot of work, and the outcome depends upon how much work you put into that prep. I see no reason, you cant have olive cabinets, if that is what your preference. Its your kitchen, and you should be the one thats happy with it. Pick an olive, with a bit of brightness to it, similar to the top picture Olychick, just posted above this picture. I think, the bottom picture is too grayed and will look too dark in your kitchen. You might want to check into under cabinet lighting too.

I think darker colors in kitchens are fine, and can be striking, as long as you have plenty of light (natural and artificial). I’d look at adding more light fixtures. That one center light isn’t much.

(I just painted my kitchen dark blue, and am very glad I have a lot of light.)

Painting cabinets is hard to do well. Hiring a house painter almost certainly won’t get you a ”factory finish” that is smooth, durable, uniform, looks they came that way. Hiring a cabinet refinisher should, but $$$.

Still, if this isn’t your “dream/forever/etc kitchen”, and you simply want to try olive cabinets to see how you might like them in said future kitchen - or if you’re not nutso about it, it’s just a kitchen after all - then why not?

I’d remove all drawers and doors and hardware, sand and spray them, with the primer, paint, and clearcoat that your local paint shop recommends. If you don’t want grain to show, ask them about filling primer; I’ve had some luck with skim coating too. But its wood, not plastic, so what’s wrong with grain? I’d either mask and spray the bodies or thin the paint and brush. It won’t be “perfect” or even “very good”, but it might be good enough.

One more thing. If you paint those cabinets, do not use regular paint on them, buy paint that is meant for cabinets, and it can be brushed on, or use a small foam roller meant for cabinet painting, if you are not handy with a spray gun.

I've always liked the IKEA Bodarp Gray-Green cabinet color. Someone measured the Hex Code of this color at an IKEA store as "636F65". You can find paints that roughly match this color by:

1. Browse to Easy RGB website.
2. Select Data Type "HTML 0-FFFFFF"
3. Enter the code into the Color Data field.
4. Select the brand and type of paint; click 'Match'. (Example: Behr Pinecone Hill is similar.)

I'm Italian developer, based in Italy.

I think the cabinet will looks great in green! I think your idea is very good, the walls should be in my modest opinion: cream, very light. To give a sophisticate atmosphere.

Thank you everyone! We decided to keep the cabinets as they are for now & purchase from ikea within the next year!