Lighting Design (Lumens, Beam Spread, quantity)

last year

This is a work in progress:

Kitchen can/wafer lights.

I am designing my recessed lighting that will be in addition to pendants, and sconces, and undercabinet lighting. How many lumens per light is bright enough? I am trying to decide between 2" (907 lumens/bulb) or 4" (1100 lumens/bulb) for the kitchen, but also throughout the house. I know I can use a combo, but what should be my primary size? And, are these "deep regressed downlights" deep enough to reduce glare, or do I need to use the old trusty can light?

https://juno.acuitybrands.com/products/detail/1853294/juno/canless-wafer-downlight/2-4-and-6-led-canless-downlight-with-switchable-white-cct-adjustable-lumen-outputs-no-housing-required

RED DOTS are where I am thinking to put these lights.

Update: I am now considering also using these Maxxima 2" and 4" lights with a 36 degree beam spread. The juno lights I found have a 90 degree beam spread. Any advise on when the two different beam spreads might be better than the other is appreciated. (Shower, bedroom, bathroom ect)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Maxxima-2-in-Slim-Round-Recessed-Anti-Glare-LED-Downlight-White-Trim-Canless-IC-Rated-600-Lumens-5-CCT-2700K-to-5000K-MRL-S20803/321473668

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Maxxima-4-in-Slim-Round-Recessed-Anti-Glare-LED-Downlight-White-Trim-Canless-IC-Rated-1200-Lumens-5-CCT-2700K-5000K-MRL-S41503/321288508?MERCH=REC--fbt_test--321473668--1--n/a--n/a--n/a--n/a--n/a

Featured Answer

wdccruise

last year

last modified: last year

I would advise against the Juno "flat" (aka wafer) lights as their lenses will be flush with the ceiling resulting in glare. Instead, choose a Juno "deep regressed" or Maxxima lights. Flat lights are okay in garage.

I used 2" lights in the hallway and above the shower and 4" everywhere else.
I'd center the light in front of the closet on the second drawing.
Don't put a light in front of a range hood if the light could reflect off the hood.
LED strips or step lights would be good solutions for the staircase.

Follow dark sky principles for outdoor lighting:

Casement windows are more efficient than sliders and have the advantage of being able to catch the wind to improve ventilation

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Comments (7)

Amyandmby
last year
In the same boat here… Hoping to see good advice on your post :)
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3onthetree
last year
This is just a quick cursory review of things that stood out (believe it or not):

General:

- You have to choose ceiling mounted fixtures ahead of time, at least in terms of say 2-light vs 4-light, or say 1x4 vs 2x4 panel. This foremost affects amount of different lighting types in a room. Selection of recessed 2" vs 4" vs 6" beforehand is not as critical as it is easier to adjust.

- In general, choosing 2" lighting is a more aesthetic statement, and thus far is typically found in higher value houses. That may change as more value based 2" lighting is on the shelves, but the trim design for those are not at the same level as you would choose for high value houses.

- Side note I disagree with Juno calling this entire line "wafers." Only the slim with no regress is a wafer, and those springs are too large to function where "wafers" were conceived for.

- In general Lumens for a single fixture will range from 750-1100, any are fine and can be spaced appropriately. For a typical home, don't worry about calculators you see on the internet for ambient lumens of a space. You will arrive there naturally if you space recessed and provide layered lighting appropriately for the space.

Basement:

- Stairs/hall are underlit, no Wet Bar lighting, Family Rm can have a grid closer together for flexible furniture arrangements.

- Bedroom bed goes on other wall which makes a difference with required switched outlets.

- Mechanical Rm assume open ceiling, ditch the wafers. Maybe (4) 4' ceiling/hanging fixtures.

Main:

- No switch coming in from garage, underlit Mudrm

- Powder ceiling mount unnecessary with wall mount

- Kitchen is underlit if even 6" recessed, needs better layout regardless. Pantry might want ceiling mount for higher shelves.

- Living Rm is rudimentary. Lay out furniture and notice where they line up. Could use accents on FP.

- Covered Deck underlit. Curious about the roof form, but lay out furniture to see how your ceiling fan lines up. Might need two.

Upper:

- Master look at where the recessed hits you laying on the bed, one elbow on each of you. Tray ceilings are better to have cove lighting, accents on a wall/window, and table lamps. And if you don't like 1950's center bedroom lights, fan lights are the very same concept.

- Ensuite no hanging fixture allowed over a tub. Sconces on both sides of a 36" vanity is very crowded for this bathroom.

- Bath2/Laundry this is where choice of wall mount/ceiling mount size will make a difference.

Non lighting:

- Why are casements on the 1st floor (maybe tilt/turn?), but then sliders on the walkout basement and upper floor? Sliders are IMO entry level value. Also, it appears the drawing convention in Bath2 and Laundry are glass block. Also I don't know why 1/3 Living Rm window is different.

- Powder Rm toilet and vanity are flipped for some reason.

- Why does one garage door appear to be 18' and the other 16'.

- Why is the Dining Rm above grade (basically built like a deck).

- Stair access from Covered Deck down to grade is way far away from Basement walkout.

- Wet Bar has a faux beam slicing the ceiling for some reason.
Blue
Original Author
last year
Thank you!.. I have changed many things based off of your comments. Regarding the master, if I use Cove lighting, and lamps on the end tables, do you think I"ll still need some cans somewhere? There will not be a light in the fan.
Blue
Original Author
last year
Also, with the 2" only being 600 lumens, will those be bright enough?
3onthetree
last year
I don't see anywhere on your current layout where a 2" would be adequate except for maybe the stair landing in the basement.

You can choose to put some recessed lighting in the Master either to highlight a wall or window, a lot of people like to highlight the 4 corners for some reason. Just make sure they don't interfere with lamps, put a hotspot on the tv, or cause strobing with the fan.
wdccruise
last year
last modified: last year
"Also, with the 2" only being 600 lumens, will those be bright enough?"

The Juno WF2 2" regressed lights emit ~900+ lumens, depending on the setting.

But for comparison:
- I have five 4" recessed lights in the living room that use 500 lumen PAR20 LED bulbs
- I have four old 6" recessed lights in the kitchen whose fluorescent bulbs I replaced with 500 lumen LED.
The kitchen is overlit (you could film a movie) and the living room lights are on a dimmer. So, yes. (And don't use the ugly, old-fashioned 6" recessed lights. Blecch.)