Tiled in shower to tub conversion. Tile vs. tub surround?
This bathroom is the only room in the house that has not been stripped down to the studs and remodeled in the last 20 years. In the 7 years we have lived here, the mere thought of tackling this project has frightened us at the thought of breaking our concrete up and made our pocketbook shiver. We now have a 3 year old who has always bathed in a plastic tub filled with shower water (see picture), which is surely more humiliating for her parents than for her. A crack in the floor has also developed, allowing water to leak down the foundation (we see it when we go outside).
Our bathroom is 5x8. We received two bids this week. One for a local contractor for $15,000 which about made me faint upon opening the mail, and another from a bath design company for $10,000. Yes, this is for a complete gut, including all the plumbing necessary to move the drain and set a tub, however, in both cases, exorbitantly priced fixtures (the tub and surround alone were over $3,000) are being used. Both companies are very busy and in no need of work, leading me to believe we will likely not get a competitive bid from a 'do-it-all' installer.
So, we are now seeking the services of a plumber to do the hardest part (set the tub), and we will gradually do the rest ourselves as time allows. Eventually the rest of the tile will come down and we will re-finish the walls, get a new vanity/sink combo (20x24 is what we have to work with) and put in a new stool. Right now the floor is just painted concrete as there was carpet there before (yuck!) No sense putting tile down when it doesn't match the tile on the walls!
I would much rather do a tile surround than an acrylic surround, but do not know what kind of wall system to put up that would support it. I know regular drywall is not strong enough. I would probably want to do tile to the ceiling, however. Preferably neutral tones as we already have leftover floor tile to use that has been used elsewhere in the house.
We have only one bathroom and very little space so any suggestions would be appreciated! Thank you for listening to my lamentations!

Comments (51)
- 13 years agoFirst of all, this is the kind of job where you pretty much have to commit to tackling it all at once, not in stages. Find someone (possibly from the store where you buy the tub?) to get that tub set for you - and definitely have that leak dealt with. Secondly, there isn't a problem per se with tiling onto drywall because the drywall will hold the tile, but in a bathroom you wouldn't use regular drywall - at the very least, you would use aqua board, and there are a couple of other options also. They're not much more expensive than regular drywall, so not a big deal. Once you get to the tiling stage, it is actually not that difficult to learn how to tile. Just watch some tutorials, or maybe attend one of those Saturday tiling classes at Home Depot. Heck, you can even rent the wet saw from them to cut your tiles with. This much you could probably do as Step 1, and do the rest as money and budget allow. But bathroom and kitchen renos are really hard to live through, so it would be nice to just do it all at once and get it over with.Bethany thanked karemore55
- 13 years agoDo a little internet research or go to your home center, on the topic of waterproofing systems for tile. These have evolved over the years, and there are good options out there.
Tub prices are pretty crazy, it's true. Related Professionals
Bowling Green Interior Designers & Decorators · Shreveport Interior Designers & Decorators · Brooklyn Interior Designers & Decorators · Olean Interior Designers & Decorators · Covington Architects & Building Designers · Zanesville Architects & Building Designers · Cedar Rapids Architects & Building Designers · Las Cruces Architects & Building Designers · Sheridan Architects & Building Designers · Wichita Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · DeRidder Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Amherst Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Fergus Falls Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Lancaster Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Idaho Falls Kitchen & Bathroom Designers- 13 years agoDiedrichfam, don't feel bad - we had a green bathtub in our former home until just a year ago. Our realtor told us to change it to white or she wouldn't sell our house for us!
- 13 years agoI'm doing the reverse (taking out the tub for a shower) but we'll be doing the majority of the work ourselves and just using the plumber for the plumbing work. You can't use regular drywall because water seeps in behind paint, plumbing fixtures, cracks in mortar and would destroy it. You can use cement board or green board. There's Kerdi systems for placing on the wall on top of the drywall to create a moisture barrier under the tile too. Start doing LOTS of research so you know how to place tile, grout, what types of tile need what kind of underlayment etc. Also make sure you know how to properly place a toilet since you'll need to do it once tile is on the floor. Personally, I'm going to use greenboard throughout the rest of the bathroom because it gets moist, haven't decided on the area that's actually in the shower. The hubster has installed cabinetry before and has done drywall install, plastering so not too worried about that. But definitely get some books, research on the internet, and learn the proper way to do things. The rest is elbow grease and not letting yourself go "eh, that's good enough". Water is the enemy of the home.
- 13 years agoI feel your pain. We just redid our 5 x 8 bath for about $5000, most all of the work ourselves except for finishing up the tile because we got too busy. We had another bath, which you do not have. Can you live with a relative for 4-5 days while the major work is done? We replaced the window and gutted the whole room. New plumbing, wiring, everything. Got a cute sink and vanity from IKEA which save space. Put a floor heater in so that we can have warm tile under our feet in the winter.
- 13 years agoI had a mauve and grey 80's nightmare myself. My hubs and are just finishing up two bathroom diy remodels. We brought the rooms down to the studs. Hired a plumber. Lucked out with a family member for the electrical. We are doing everything else ourselves. The demo wasn't bad and the tile work was fun. We used cement board in and near wet areas with a coating of red guard on top of that. For better details, I'd suggest you check out John Whipple on this site. He is like the guru of waterproofing and gives wonderful advice! I'm here if you wish to learn from our success and mistakes. Best of luck
Bethany
Original Author13 years agoThank you @karemore55! I agree with you on preferring to do it all at once. We have a place to stay during all the reno thankfully if it comes to that, but that is a last resort. I think I'm just getting hung up on the process of things. All that tile all over the place just screams "tear everything off and start over" since it is literally covering 70% of the walls. Do we just demo everything, have the plumber come in and do his thing, then have someone else come in and put up the aqua board and new drywall on the other walls, then finish up after that with the fixtures/toilet, etc? I know that by managing this project ourselves we're taking on the headaches that a full-service contractor would take care of (that's what costs so much!) :-)
My husband says I'm making this alot more complicated than it needs to be. I mean, it took 7 years just to ask someone to do an estimate because I was convinced nobody could help us! Ha!Bethany
Original Author13 years agoThank you for all the wonderful ideas! I haven't thought about electrical yet. One of the contractors said that the GFCI was installed incorrectly when it was redone a few years back (so THAT'S why I can't have the fan on with the light off!) so he would redo that when he put the new exhaust fan in. I wonder if we will need to hire someone for electrical too then instead of just "living with it." Lots of reading to do!- 13 years agoTake it down to the studs, and do it right. I can not believe you lived with this for so long. You can DO THIS!!!!
- 13 years agoI don't think you want to use regular drywall in the bathroom at all. Use mould and moisture resistant drywall, and behind tile you might need cement board(?) Also Kerdi - Schluter have a good system for tile walls and floors and a good website with instructions. We used it in basement bathroom and the installer (my husband) felt it was easy to use. Good luck.
BTW - I was just in Home depot today - drop-in tubs only $200-$300. Only a basic tub - does nothing but hold water (hopefully drains as well - lol), but if you're trying to squeeze every penny... - 13 years agoYes, it's pretty much in that order, and yes it's a big headache when you have to line up the trades yourselves. It would be nice if you could find one guy (and they're out there) who is young and trying to build up his portfolio and can do all these early steps for you. Just start asking around - ask everyone you can think of, including the people at Home Depot, and make sure you can get references. Otherwise, there will be delays for sure as you wait on each trade, not to mention the phoning, emails and just being at the house to let people in. But people always say they're glad they went ahead and did it, so take your vitamins, drink lots of wine, whatever it takes to get through it!
- 13 years agolast modified: 13 years agoOk, I'm a pro, so you may not trust me, but trust me; $10,000 for a complete gut with moving plumbing and full tile surround is not exorbitant. The materials alone are going to be in the $5k range, and there's a lot of labor in that little room to get it all right. There are at least three major sub trades working in a 5x8 box all with overlapping coordination issues, and that's before they actually get at their tasks.
Could you DIY it? Certainly. If you know what you are doing, or don't and are handy and a good learner that can be a great personal journey and accomplishment. But if not... it could cost you what you put into it the first time plus the cost of the pro to come in and do it all over again AND fix other things that got worse as a result.
If you want them to do it, but to push down the bid costs, have them isolate out material costs as an allowance on: tub, toilet, sink, vanity, all fixtures, and tile material. Then have them price it with those materials "provided by owner, installed by contractor." You then get to pick the fixtures in your price range for them to install. They'll put in clauses about timely or even pre-work start delivery of owner materials, and it will be on you to get them there on time, but you can save costs by carrying all that ordering, pricing and delivery yourself (it's shopping, after all!) Get a nice contractor and they may even let you use their contractor price discount. And be sure to have cut sheets of all of them to give to the GC at work start to put it on them to "assure coordination and confirm compatibility of all owner provided products prior to rough-in." - 13 years agoI should mention that we have borrowed Mike Holmes' book Make It Right Kitchens and Bathrooms from the library a couple of times over the years. We have done a lot of renovating, flipped a house, etc. and hubby is pretty handy and can do some of the p,imbuing even. But we always left the electrical to a qualified electrician. This book will give you lots of tips and info, including what to farm out to the pros and what you can do yourself.
- 13 years agoI whole heartedly agree with the above comment from Re Square. I too am a pro who does dozens of jobs a year on small bathrooms. A lot of work can go into such a small space. Typical cost for a small bathroom like yours in my area would be 13-14k depending on selections.
I also agree with the commentors who recommend ripping it down to the studs. In my experience with bathroom renovations- is never pays to cut corners.
Good luck on your project!!! - 13 years agoI also agree with Harper and Re Square. Considering your house is the biggest investment you'll ever make and to take on DIY when you're not clued up to what you should be doing could be harmful to your investment. Al least go take some classes at your local Home Depot. You must research how to do this job. My view, it's a job for a PRO (a good one).
Bethany
Original Author13 years agoVery much appreciate all the weigh-ins from the pros out there. I do want to clarify that the $10,000 bid was for a tub with acrylic surround, not tile surround. That tub/surround combo alone was $3,000 before labor costs, so I realize adjustments could be made there. I by no means want to go the 'cheap' route, but there are quality products out there that will get the job done for less.
I know we could do the tile (wall and floor) ourselves and set the cabinet and sink ourselves when the time comes. I like Re Square's idea of isolating the material costs separately, but have been afraid to approach this route, as it has been cautioned against by the bath contractor. They design the bathroom (thus inflating the bottom line to pay for that design work on the back end) with materials they trust and that can be custom made by the manufacturers they have relationships built with. I've been told if I just buy stuff and ask them to install it, they can't warranty it and thus are hesitant to do it, period. I know I need to be assertive, but it's almost as if I don't know what my ultimate boundaries are as the "inexperienced" customer.
In an ideal world I would pick all my materials, order them/have them delivered, and then have someone put them in and fill in the blanks. Sounds so simple, right?
And yes I've lived with that bath way too long Anne! :)- 13 years agoThis may make you feel better diedrichfam. You are not alone! Here's one of my before bathrooms, tiny and EVERYTHING was tile including the ceiling! LOL

Bethany
Original Author13 years agoHere's my itemized bid for reference (all at recommendation of bath contractor, not our selections):
Tub - Americh Madison - $1,200
Acrylic Surround (ceiling height) - $1,650
Window Treatment (to go around a small glass block window) - $200
Corner Caddy (don't really want or need this) - $150
Crescent Rod - $130
Drain & Overflow - $100
Tub/shower fixtures - $264
Koehler Comfort Height Toilet - $416
Vanity - $313
Custom Onyx Counter Top - $207
Faucet - $206
Total Materials: $4,836
Side Note: This is exactly where I am seeing the division of need vs. want. I don't need a custom vanity that costs over $700 when I have seen many at Home Depot at Lowes for several hundred less, made of solid wood, that would fit the bill and include the sink top. I know there's a massive markup on several of the other items as I priced them out separately myself.
Labor:
Flooring (installing 20 s.f. of tile we already have with new trim baseboards) - $740
Plumbing (tear out of concrete and moving drain, setting tub, setting new vanity, etc.) - $2,475
Electrical (new exhaust fan install and new GCFI outlet) - $660
Misc. Labor (demo, drywall, etc.) - $2,070
Total Labor: $5,945
We were told we could chop off $800 if we did all the demo, but it hardly seems worth the savings at this point.
So maybe what I should be asking is...is it presumptuous or wrong to ask a company known for designing custom bathrooms to just do the labor and let us purchase our own materials?Bethany
Original Author13 years agoAmy, wow, that is insane! Do you have an after pic to raise my spirits and give me hope? ;-)- 13 years agoA lot of people will feel that these prices are not exorbitant; however, you neither want or need a lot of what is in the bid.
Ikea makes very good and inexpensive fixtures, with more style than the ones at the home center. Bethany
Original Author13 years agoTrue, I think that to get an idea of overall labor costs, we decided to have a GC bid the job. Problem is, those companies are going to hire subs anyways. The design element is what is bankrupting us on this estimate.- 13 years agoWell, I think you'll do all right by doing as much as you can yourselves, and hiring subs to do what you can't. I would run from that bath contractor, who is (understandably) inflating the cost with fees and arrangements with custom shops.
There are those of us here who design baths, who can assist if you like. - 13 years agoI would caution you on doing it yourself! I am a very handy DIYer, having completely redone my kitchen, fireplace, closets, and more. I also did some work on our bathroom. If you are doing it DIY, allow for thing to take 3x as long, if not longer than what a pro would take. If you have somewhere free to stay, then great, but otherwise that could get expensive. Tiling the floor means having no toilet on site! At all! For a minimum of 48 hours, more depending on materials. You have to put your backerboard down on the subfloor or ditra, that takes 24 hr to cure, then you can lay tile (which was a b!8(@$) in my tiny bathroom, you have to careful the leveling and getting things to slope correctly. Another 24 to cure the mortar, then grout, that also takes a few days ideally. You could put the toilet down, but we wanted to make sure it cured before sealing it. So rent a port a potty as karemore stated, you will need lots of wine during this process. I would suggest doing all the research to understand what's going on in the install, so you understand everything on the bid and get a pro to do it, at least the critical stuff. and get ALL the specs of the tiling installation. Depending on the tiling sub, as there are varying ways to install tile, and you want it done right, so use the good stuff!
Where we got lucky was I found a nice new vanity on CL sold by a contractor, as it was the wrong side for the install for a job, so he had to get rid of it. 60" vanity with solid wood finishing with solid wood dovetail drawers and all soft close hardware for $400
Ohh and don't forget to spec a toilet that had an all smooth base exterior! Those toilets with the plumbing system essentially exposed drive me nuts!! Cleaning them is the worst! Definitely not designed by women. If I could make one grand change in the fixture world I would ban all toilets with the old design and only allow the easy clean version. Concealed trap way is the technical term
Bethany thanked evamdesign - 13 years agoOh and saving the $800 on demo, definitely do that! Smashing that tile will be fun! Have you not dreamt of doing it before!?
;) - 13 years agoI often buy all the major materials for a project and then have contractor install.
We own several vacation rental properties and often have very little down time between renters to get a project done.
We have twice done bathrooms very similar in size in stages for time and money factors.
We had the contractor literally cut the acrylic or fiberglass tub and surround out, replaced wall board and installed a new tub and surround. We used a Sterling Accord model. We then had contractor use white subway tile on walls above the surround and had him install a ceiling light above the tub.
Previously, we had replaced the vanity and floor tile.
In one house, we did gut the whole room and he was able to get me a working tub within a day and a half. ( we did have a 1/2 bath for a toilet).
In the third house we had previously done a gut job, but shower (all tile) was installed very poorly and started to leak into crawl space. So same
Contractor just cut out the shower, made repairs to damaged floor under old shower and installed a new surround type shower. He did not have to touch the rest of the room.
So it can be done in stages. - 13 years agoAre tile surrounds or acrylic surrounds typical in your neighborhood? Is DIY typical or do people mostly use contractors?
In my area of California, both estimates (for what they include as materials and fixtures) are reasonable. You can certainly choose cheaper bathtub, toilet and vanity, but for the first two, stay with standard quality, not low budget quality. The vanity can be changed out far more easily than the tub. A mid range Moen faucet is going to run $150-$200 in my area.
I would also suggest that you find one more local contractor for an estimate. Pick the contractor carefully, talk to references first- you want someone who usually works in your budget range, not the luxury market.
Don't forget to add permit fees to your budget. - 13 years agoMaybe invest in an angie's list membership and look for smaller companies without the design experience. Sounds like you are confident with that part. Angie's list also has "deals" similiar to groupon. Even if you don't use those companies it will give you an idea of what is reasonable for your area. We gutted our bathroom in a day down to the studs and subfloor and it took about six hours and took it to the dump ourselves for about $40.
Bethany
Original Author13 years agoApple pie...we live in a midsized Iowa city and are in a lower priced home area and many likely DIY around here. We have a very unique situation compared to others as virtually nobody ripped out their only tub to do what was done here.
Thankfully we have no subfloor as it is a slab foundation with no basement. This made DIY tile in the kitchen a snap a couple years back.
Many have asked me if the housing market here supports our design plans. Our home is likely the most up to date in the neighborhood. We had to have an exception done to make the appraisal come in line with actual value since most houses in our street are worth about $20k less to start with.- 13 years agoThanks for explaining the location and situation wrt the housing market. Are most bathrooms in the neighborhood being remodelled with tile or acrylic bathtub surrounds? A quick look on the MLS may be helpful.
If most houses were built in 1952, some bathrooms would have needed to be redone if the finish wore off the (presumably) cast iron tubs after 50 years of Ajax and Comet. So there maybe examples in the MLS.
Then the big question is whether you prefer tile or acrylic. If your house is already the nicest in the neighborhood, you are making the choice for you, not for resale value. - 13 years agoI am not a DIY'er or a contractor. I am somewhere in between and I would strongly caution you not to try to do this yourself if you do not already know that you need to use special drywall in bathrooms. I mean this in the most sincere way. If you watch enough HGTV ( Renovation Realities), you will learn it is better to leave these kinds of jobs to professionals. If you are on a slab, than that means that moving any plumbing would entail jack-hammering the concrete to move drains/pipes. You must get your leaks and any repairs taken care of first and foremost and if your budget only allows for acrylic after that, then just use it. There are companies that can design an entire unit to fit in the existing space with out demo ( if no underlying problems) . It would be better to live with a functional acrylic bath tub than a hit or miss tile job that you tried to do yourselves to save money.
Also I think your yellow tile could look better if everything else was white or pale grey or other than purple. I really hope that you can find someone to do the job at a price you can live with now or later. Good luck. Bethany
Original Author13 years agoApple Pie...didn't think of the MLS for a reference guide. Good tip. Lots of tile surrounds is what I see typically for those that want to stand out. We do want to do this remodel for us, but we also want it to be appealing to a buyer in the event we sell...which is an option. We've gone back and forth between moving to a bigger house and staying here. Can't beat our cheap mortgage so it's tempting to just stay.
lkdrew, sorry for the poor picture quality. The wall color is actually a brownish grey, not purple. The floor is just painted concrete that came in a dark gray (Sherwin Williams Floor Enamel). We ripped the carpet up (yes, the previous owners thought THAT was a great idea), and painted as a temporary solution.
No offense taken at all at the recommendations. Really don't want to go the acrylic route, despite our budget constraints. I don't know if you read an earlier post, but a custom acrylic bath and surround was going to run $3,000, so hardly an economical option. It will also be easier to tile around the block window than to have a custom window treatment made and installed.
We have a plumber coming out Monday morning to give us an estimate on that part. Thankfully we know him and I work with his wife, which makes me a little less apprehensive.
Can you believe I work for a construction company? Obviously I'm on the administrative side, not operations. HAHA!Bethany
Original Author13 years agoJudy M...it's really hard to tell based on the average price estimator tool on Houzz. It says for Iowa the average price is $7,800, but of course that's not taking into account the extensive plumbing we will be doing.
You make me feel alot better about doing things in stages. I would rather have all the tub and tile surround done at once with the rest of the bathroom looking awful and be OK for the time being then having everything stripped down and have something happen and be completely up a creek. We can live without the floor being done (concrete is fine for now).
We took a family trip to Lowes this morning and got some ideas. Got a good look at mold resistant drywall and cement board for the tile backing. I'll start posting some of the design ideas here as well.Bethany
Original Author13 years agoevamdesign...Thank you for the toilet idea! I love the concealed trap and the "skinny toilet". Would that help with space saving?Bethany
Original Author13 years agoAlso evamdesign, no subfloor thankfully, so that saves a bit of time! :)- 13 years agoBest tile site on the Internet: http://www.johnbridge.com/
Please know that blue or green board is for DAMP areas only. For wet areas like tub surrounds, you need concrete underlayment.Bethany thanked groveraxle - 13 years agoHave you considered having the tile "re-colored"? Yes, you need a new tub/shower pan, but for about $700 (yes, that is hundred, not thousand), you can get those tiles sprayed to a nice neutral almond or white. We did this in one of our bathrooms, then did it in both of the bathrooms in our son's condo. (he is now renting the condo out and so far, no issues with it). If memory serves, I just googled 'repainting or resurfacing bathroom tubs and tile".
- 13 years agoDo plumbers in your area do "just the bathtub" replacement with moving the plumbing? I'd be inclined to ask the plumber for a price for a new plain jane American Standard or Kohler tub, appropirate plumbing moves, and leave most of the tile as is. You could get luck if the backerboard is in good shape to put in a new border of tile (I wouldnt bet on it, though).. Having the yellow coated white or almond as Laurence Tillett suggests could be a really good move. Add a waterproof vinyl curtain over the window for now.
You could also look on Craigslist for a used tub. It might take some waiting for the right kind to pop up. Right now I see several non-clawfoot tubs in various conditions for $20 to $600. A salvage yard may have more. - 13 years agoDo you dislike the tile, or just the color of it? I, too, was going to point out that it's possible to have it painted, and for less money. As for the acrylic tub surround, my mother put one in, and its outlived its day. It's cracked, and discolored. So, you'll be replacing it several times if you stay in the house for a long time. That's one thing about the tile, and that it will last-as you can see-barring any real abuse. If what you really want is the tub, you should have the repairs done, and it definitely would be wise to let a pro handle that. If you did decide to keep the tile you could just remove the tile from the bottom where you want to install the tub, have the space prepared for the tub, paint the remaining tiles, and then install the tub. If you still want tile, this might save you some money, as it also would take less time-and be a whole lot less messy-than tearing tile out, having to clean it up, and then installing the wallboard and a whole new set of tiles. I assume that you want to move that bar, but if you are painting, you would only be damaging the tiles that the bar is attached to, and you could buy some really inexpensive tile to replace them, since they will be painted anyway.
My son, my mom, and I went to Lowes the other day to get a kit to fix some lamps, and while we were there we did some "wish" shopping, and they have some nice vanities, with granite tops, for much less than your estimate. If you looked while you were there, I'm sure you saw that for yourself.
Concerning the toilet, my family decided several years ago not to invest in a toilet that was very expensive. Not because the toilet didn't live up to its cost, but toilets-as far as I know-are still very breakable, and we had an accident in the bath where a item hit the toilet and cracked it. So, we couldn't afford to replace the "fancier" toilet-this was when they came out with the "longer" ones. So, I realize that's not a problem for everyone, but we decided that the plain, utilitarian toilet that was good quality-but not very expensive-would be what we bought in the future. Understandably, you and your husband want to make the space as nice as you can, since this is more than likely an investment for the long haul(at least, for somebody, if you do sell it at some point)and that includes a nice toilet. I think I'd ask how sturdy the toilet would be in case of some unforeseen knocks. For the price, if it wasn't made of a stronger material that could take a pretty good whack from something, I'd give it some thought before I bought it. Bethany
Original Author13 years agoHere are two more pictures taken from the other side (really hard to do with an iPhone in a tiny bathroom!) The shot of the mirror with the lights off helps define the color a little better (it's really not bad by itself til' you add that ghastly yellow). We would ideally keep those as they are newer. As you look closely in the other picture, you can see little wisps of carpet fiber peeking out from under the door. That is what remains of when we slashed the carpet to get it out of the bathroom as it flowed in from the hallway. That will be next to go as it is poor grade and stained to heck in the remaining areas.
Now, to address the dreaded "Tilegate" question. Lucindalane, Apple Pie, Laurence Tillett - the short answer is, yes, I strongly dislike the tile. Not just the color, but the sheer amount of it. The thought of coloring it white or almond has been considered several times. I could probably do it and be somewhat happy with the result, but I feel I would always want to change it and rip it out anyways down the road. I know in the long haul it would be a cheaper, doable option that we could live with. I'd be quite depressed with it though. The only place I want tile is the shower area when everything is said and done, and an aesthetically pleasing tile at that. We're willing to suffer long prep times, in-depth research, and even hiring a professional if it comes down to it if it means getting it the heck out of there.
Lucindadale - There are not one, but three bars on the shower walls. One on the leftside wall (hidden in the picture), the long one at the back, and one that runs vertically to the right of the shower head that appears to have been used to hold some kind of bathing aid perhaps? Taking them all out and salvaging what is left, as you suspected, would probably devastate the tile behind it. If it was just one bar, it could be ok, but all three, in three different places...oy. :-)

- 13 years agoIf you have a bath showroom near you that carries Kohler products, I would suggest you look at the Sterling accord, it is made by Kohler, has great storage. Online photos don't do it justice.
With the subway above it (we also tiled ceiling and the ceiling light) it really looks good. We get lots of comments from renters about the update to the bathroom. - 13 years agoWell, in the final analysis, when a person knows what they want, most of the time one isn't going to be satisfied with anything less, unless there just isn't any alternative-and even then its just "making do." So, good luck with the re-hab. I hope that the plumbers and all the workmen can get the big problems solved for you so you can redo the bath with the confidence that nothing else should slip, break, or tear in the near future.
- 13 years agoBethany, sorry to take so long getting back to you. Below, please find some "almost" after shots. It is still a work in progress but I hope you agree it is already a huge improvement over the before.



- 13 years agoIf you decide to go the DIY route and tile your tub surround, check out Wedi waterproofing products. The Wedi system is a lot easier to use than the traditional method of waterproofing cement board. We have been using their products and have found they are easy to work with and pretty darn fool proof if installed correctly (which is really easy to do!) http://www.wedicorp.com/
Good luck with your project! - 13 years agoHave you been tempted to remove a tile just to see how easy or hard they are to remove?
- 13 years agoAt least the fixtures you have are white. On a tight budget, a white cast iron tub would be my splurge. Gut the room yourself, and have the tub, green or cement board walls and electrical done by professionals. Install the floor tile yourself. If money is really tight, get a fiberglass surround for now and paint the remaining walls. This will get rid of your chief complaint about the room, and buy you time to decide if you want to attempt the wall tile yourself (totally doable).
10-15k sounds reasonable, but if you don't have it, better to sink money into necessary repairs and save the rest for later. Tile is an investment- don't install something you don't love. - 9 years ago
@Bethany, how did your bathroom remodel turn out? Are you happy with the results? Were you able to get what you wanted, and lower the cost? Pictures would be great. I'm trying to decide what to do with my bathroom. https://www.houzz.com/discussions/replacing-a-stall-shower-surround-with-tile-dsvw-vd~4261896
Thanks - 9 years ago
funny, i loved the before and the after, to me, is boring and kinda ugly. just sayin. there's no accounting for taste. i would have bought that yellow tile from you.
- 4 years ago
You could leave the tile and cover the walls in white wainscoting floor to ceiling, move toilet to back right wall and vanity across from it. Then tub would go along right wall with Hardie board surround for a new tile base. You would only have to take out water stop on the floor. Tile or luxury vinyl wood plank for the floor. Good Luck! -Jan











BethanyOriginal Author