I would transplant now rather than wait until spring, if you have the time. Fall is a terrific time to move things since top growth has slowed/stopped and the plants focus their energy on root growth -- warm days and cool nights facilitate this.

No special tips, per se -- sounds like a pretty routine move; rather, just a couple reminders:

Because it's been so dry (here, anyway), make sure the new planting area and the shrubs you're going to move are well-watered first -- it's hard to dig in dry soil. Of course, water the transplanted shrubs well, and check every couple days to make sure they don't dry out -- fall is prime root-growing time, but they'll struggle with that if it's too dry. Mulch the transplants well. Do NOT fertilize at this time -- wait until spring if you're going to do that.

Thanks porkchop. Yeah, that's pretty much the plan. LOL if I'm being honest I probably need encouragement more than tips! Moving a big shrub is only slightly less terrifying to me than pruning! My son-in-law says he will help me though so there is the brawn I need.

Actually, I starting clearing a spot for the laurel last weekend when I noticed an awful lot of hornets flying around. Then was very discouraged to see them going in and out of a hole in the ground - six inches away from my planned relocation spot! So I have to take care of that nest first. Another scary venture - since the time I got stung about 20 times after stepping in a nest I'm not keen to go anywhere neat those suckers.

:)

Dee

Ack! Yea, take care of the hornets first!

Yesterday I transplanted a very large potted hydrangea tree into the ground. I managed to do it with the help of a hand cart and removing as much of the potting soil I could but it was still quite heavy. Much as I hate to admit it, it's getting harder and harder to do the "big stuff" with each passing year. DH is still quite strong for his age but he's not always around to help.

Dee, We have moved just about every large shrub in the garden...lol. I have the same problem you have, constantly planting too close. I think if you arm yourself with the best information and use the best strategy, like taking care of the hornet's nest first, etc., I can't 'see why you would not have success. And then maybe do a few more big ones. The more you do the more success you have, the more confidence you will have to do it.

I used to worry about not getting enough roots, but that hasn't seemed to matter. I get a decent rootball and cut off any roots that go too deep that are holding the plant in the ground. I often will try to time it for a few days of cloudy weather, especially when it is a large shrub that is not easy to shade. I put a folding chair in front of it if the sun comes out. I never amend the planting hole. I had too many professionals tell me that the new recommendations are to plant it in native soil. If I want to add compost I topdress with it. The one thing I feel uncertain about is if you should prune the top when the roots have been reduced like that.

I will either use a hand cart to move it to the new location or I get a tarp and drag it over. Of course, it's much easier to have two people. I try to never dig the hole too deep, so you have a solid bottom so the plant won't sink later. A hole that is double the width of a large shrub, is not always that easy to do. If you can, it's great, but if you have to skimp a little, your plant will still make it. When I get it in the position I want it in the hole, I fill the hole with water to the top and let it drain before filling in the hole. And that's about it. Water it well again after the hole has been filled, make a rim to keep the water in when it is watered. Then it's just a matter of not letting it dry out and keeping it shaded from the sun for at least a couple of days, but I shoot for a whole week of shade. I will often mulch it being sure to keep the mulch away from the trunk.

You can do this easily. Especially if you have your son in law to help. :-)

Only dig the Calycanthus after fully dormant, as in, not growing and completely defoliated. (My Calycanthus here in Oregon is still growing vigorously) Tie up the entire plant so everything is out of your way for easier digging.

A recommended way to move plants is to use a spade to cut the roots at the widest part of the canopy around 50% of the plant. Do this in the fall, prefereably before the plant goes dormant. In the spring, dig them up the rest of the way and transplant. This gives the plant time to adjust to fewer roots. If it's tricky to transplant, do a half circle in the spring, another in the fall and transplant the next spring.

All great suggestions. I forgot to say, that I'm never sure if I'm supposed to prune the shrub because the root ball is now smaller. Sometimes I decide to take a little off, but I do remember times when I didn't. Maybe someone else can answer that.

The idea to cut into the roots at the drip line, the year before and wait until spring, to me, seems like a genius idea. Especially when it is your favorite shrub and you want to reduce the risk of losing it. I've done that a few times. But then, sometimes you need to move it quickly.

I'm a firm believer in shading plants for several days after transplanting to help them through the shock even if it's a sun loving plant. It's easier to find something to shade them with if they're small. I usually trim some tree or shrub branches and stick those in the ground around it. For something large, it might be easier to drape some shade cloth over the top. ?? I haven't tried that. Maybe you could think of a better way to shade them. Best of luck.

Thanks everyone! Most of this is stuff I already planned to do or had read up on but I feel better with it coming from you guys lol.

I don't think I want to wait till next year in this particular instance, as I've already put this off long enough and have other things trying to survive in pots, which are intended for the spots where these two shrubs are, but Sigrid, that is certainly good info to have on hand for future reference - which I definitely will need as I just can't seem to get my spacing right when I plant! And who knows? The way I operate my best-laid plans may go awry and I won't get to transplanting this fall. If so, I will know to at least go out and cut the roots now - lol that might FORCE me to move things in the spring! That's one way to get my act together lol.

artinnature thanks for the tip on the calycanthus. I was going to try to move it this weekend but I guess I should wait. I was just trying to give the shrubs enough temperate time in their new spots to acclimate. I was considering trying to tie up the calycanthus but I'm worried about breaking off branches. It's so darn wide - one of the reasons I'm moving it. It's much wider and shorter than I thought it would be.

christie thanks for the idea of the shade cloth. Maybe I can rig something up. I don't think the sun protection is as important now than in mid-summer, but the sun is indeed still warm.

PM2, I was wondering about pruning back too....

:)

Dee

I tried shadecloth once and it devolved into a tangled mess. someine with better cordination might succed. for smallish plants i used opened opened umbrellas. on a breezy day i had to occasionly chase an umbrella.

For bigger ones i had to find tall stakes and used clothespins to secure a sheet to as many stakes as i had.. i remember folks on the tree forum using some sun barrier just on side that got the most sun- maybe that would be S-SW.

Burlap would work. it is light and air can get through.

You dont wany to chase sheets that become sails in windy weather.This might be challenge where google would e useful. ”protect new planted trees from sun” or something like it. ”images ” would be helpfil to use