Thanks. We do have a few other retailers (Lowes is actually closer than Home Depot for me) that I'll check with. I am familiar with the #1, #2 grades and usually don't have a job so big that it's impossible to choose straight lumber for the job. I'll need a little over 100 pieces for this job so I'll order a bundle and be stuck with what I have. I expect some crooked pieces, I can cut for places other than studs or clamp and nail at corners and other "stack" locations, but I need most to be good enough for wall studs.

While I'm price comparing and trying to look for wood species, dimensions, and grade, I'm aggravated to be confronted with a blending of terminology!

Look at the actual lumber at the big box stores and look at the lumber at the local lumber yards ; compare quality and prices, and make a decision. After the lumber arrives on site, it makes no difference how far it traveled.

I don't find the grades to be particularly useful for softwood lumber, especially when straight boards that aren't going to warp on you are the concern. I go to the store or lumber yard and actually look at the bundle my wood will come from If the boards on top of the pile that have dried a little hava all gone wacky I keep looking, similarly if the grain in the boards is all over the place. Boards with relatively even, straight grain seem much more likely to stay straight, even when they contain the pith (seems like half of all 2x4's have the pith in them these days).

When I want to be more sure I buy bigger boards, 2x10's or 2x12's and rip them down to 2x4 size. Seems that they are much higher quality to start with.

I've actually been pleasantly surprised while framing my son's bathrooms this summer that the more expensive 2x4's at both HD and Lowes were pretty darn good, at least of you got a fresh bundle to pick from. I do assume that any 2x4 that is not obviously defectve is strong enough to hold a framed wall up, I don't build airplanes.

" I do assume that any 2x4 that is not obviously defectve is strong enough to hold a framed wall up, I don't build airplanes. "

Yep, and the couple that may not be, typically get cut up for blocking.

Thanks for the comments....pretty much in line with my experiences.

I have no qualms picking and choosing from the budle in the store as long as I leave a neat stack for the next guy. I do have some reservations about returning lumber that was taken to my job site. An abuse of that "privelege" could end up costing us more from people bringing back pieces that aren't in new condition......plus the extra labor for the store to restock returns.

Anyhow, looks like we have new terminology mucking up some grades we once understood in at least general terms.

Premium or prime means pretty and little to do with the strength. It means there are fewer knots and wanes. A wane is when the stud is missing wood or untrimmed edges on the board cut from the edge of the log.

The grade 1 through 3 is determined by the percentage of the clear space between knots through the wood and not the species of wood. For a vertical stud the species used isn't critical but is very important when used to span a space, such as headers and floor joists because some are stronger than others.

So you are correct, premium and prime are all about appearance. A piece of clear cut pine would have no knots or wanes and considered #1 prime but no more stronger than a standard #1. The grade stamp will also have an abbreviation for the species , the grading agency including mill ID and a code for moisture content at manufacturing which mean nothing to me.

The actual GRADE stamped on the lumber will differ between certifying grading agencies. Some use just No 1-3, others stamp 1 or 2 STUD meaning they're suitable for load bearing studs. This is all I look for and get the cheapest number 2 for framing. Something Stamping select, premium or prime just means they are pretty and pricey.( FWI, grade #3 is allowed for studs up to 8 ft in height in the code book but you're going 12 foot so it doesn't matter.)

If you pick or order a bundle you aren't stuck with the junk and they will take them back, but so will an actual lumber yard. For the box stores the lumber prices are usually cheaper than lumber yards because they use dimensional lumber as a loss leader or low profit item to get people into the store to buy other high profit items people always buy, and where they really screw you.

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/woodworking/21015464/how-to-read-a-lumber-stamp

Lumber has had grading stamps forever. Not every stud can be used for a load bearing wall. And you can get red tagged if you choose No.3.

"Lumber has had grading stamps forever."

Forever is longer than you think.