What did your painter suggest?

You should not need to tell the painters anything.

I've used a floor mop to go over dirty walls.

The existing paint will prevent damage to the drywall.

Painter did not suggest anything. I want to make sure they are not cutting corners to make the job easier and faster.

I will get multiple quotes and I want all the quotes to be for the same amount of work or comparing prices won’t mean much.

" How should I tell the painters to prep for repainting? "

You do not tell them anythin. If they are painters and do not know, find someone else. Plain and simple. You hire the right people and trust them to do the correct job.

I agree, one need not advise a “professional” painter. That said, I’m a DIY’er. When preparing to paint a room where contamination is expected such as a kitchen, I first wash with a mild cleaner like Spic & Span. Wall repairs or dry spots are primed before finish paint.

I may be getting a general contractor handyman that can paint rather than a dedicated painting company.

The garage painting job may not be a large enough job to interest some of the local painting companies.

However, I have a list of 20+ things including the painting that would make it a sizable enough job for a general contractor that can do everything.

Someone who doesn’t specialize only in painting may cut corners if I don’t specify more details of what I want done in the work order.

From Copilot Ai:

Question: "How to prepare interior garage drywall for repainting after 20 years?"

Answer:

The short answer: after 20 years, you must treat the garage drywall as a degraded substrate—expect accumulated dust, oxidized paint, minor cracking, and possible moisture staining. The correct prep sequence is: deep cleaning → mechanical abrasion → defect repair → spot-priming → full priming → repainting.

Below is the full, structured, technically precise workflow tailored to an interior garage environment (temperature swings, vehicle exhaust particulates, and high dust load).

1. Initial assessment (5 minutes)

You’re looking for:

• Peeling or flaking paint → indicates poor adhesion or past moisture.
• Hairline cracks at seams → tape fatigue.
• Yellow/brown stains → water intrusion history.
• Chalky surface → oxidized latex paint.
• Efflorescence (white powder) → moisture through masonry walls adjoining drywall.

This determines how aggressive the prep must be.

2. Deep cleaning (critical step)

Garage walls accumulate hydrophobic grime (vehicle exhaust, oils, fine dust). Paint will not bond until this is removed.

Use this sequence:

• Dry dust removal: Vacuum with a brush head.
• Wet cleaning: Mix TSP substitute (not real TSP; modern paints dislike phosphate residue) in warm water. Wash walls with a microfiber mop or sponge. Rinse with clean water to remove surfactant residue.
• Degreasing: For visible oil spots, use Krud Kutter Original or Simple Green; rinse thoroughly.

Let dry overnight.

3. Mechanical abrasion (sanding)

After 20 years, the paint film is oxidized and must be reprofiled.

• Use 120–150 grit on a pole sander. Goal: remove gloss, knock down bumps, and expose sound substrate.
• For chalking: sand until the surface no longer leaves residue on your hand.
• For peeling edges: feather with 100 grit, then finish with 150 grit.

Vacuum again.

4. Repairing defects

Drywall dents, dings, and screw pops

• Re-seat any popped screws.
• Fill dents with lightweight joint compound.
• Sand smooth with 180 grit.

Cracked seams

If the tape has failed:

• Cut out loose tape.
• Apply new paper tape (stronger than mesh for seams).
• Two coats of joint compound, sand between coats.

Water stains

If stains are present but the drywall is structurally sound:

• Spot-prime with oil-based stain blocker (BIN or Kilz Original). Latex primers will not block tannins or rust bleed-through.

5. Priming (non‑optional after 20 years)

Even if the old paint looks “fine,” the surface chemistry has changed. Primer is mandatory.

Choose based on condition:

If walls are sound, no stains:

• High-quality latex bonding primer (e.g., Benjamin Moore STIX, Zinsser 123).

If there is chalking, old glossy paint, or unknown paint type:

• Acrylic bonding primer (STIX is best-in-class).

If there are stains or past moisture:

• Oil-based stain-blocking primer (Kilz Original or BIN shellac).

Apply one full coat. Let dry per manufacturer spec (usually 1–4 hours).

6. Repainting

Garage interiors benefit from paints with higher durability and washability.

Recommended:

• Acrylic latex in eggshell or satin (flat shows dirt too easily).

Two coats, with 2–4 hours between coats.

7. Optional upgrades

Add corner protection

Install metal or PVC corner guards on outside corners to prevent future chipping.

Seal gaps

Use paintable acrylic caulk at trim, baseboards, and penetrations.

Improve light reflectance

Use light gray instead of pure white; hides scuffs better but still brightens the garage.

8. Summary workflow (chronological)

1. Vacuum dust.
2. Wash with TSP substitute; rinse.
3. Degrease spots.
4. Sand entire surface (120–150 grit).
5. Repair dents, cracks, tape failures.
6. Spot-prime stains.
7. Full prime coat.
8. Two finish coats.

I depends on what you consider a paint company. There are many fine independent people who paint. Some are a husband and wife team, others may be friends who paint together. It is hard to say exactly but they may be a better deal than a "professional" paint company.

We used a local painter with a very good reputation and good reviews. We first used them to drywall and paint the inside the garage. We eventually used them to paint the stair well and hall and finally our bedroom. I feel they did an excellent job.

Depending on the job, you may wish to insure they carry insurance to cover accidental damage and liability, and coverage if they get hurt on the job.