This may be more information than you were looking for but...
The wood is Eastern White Cedar -- left completely untreated. The keys to its working without staining are twofold. First, all of the pieces were rough-cut to size, completely soaked, and left to dry for several days. That process allowed some staining pigments to be drawn out to the surface. The boards were then planed and worked to exact sizes.
The second key relates to their not developing stains over time. Here the important factor is to design the shutter so that it is getting a relatively even water saturation, or one which is focused at mid-panel. This is important because staining is primarily caused by water being sucked in from a wet end to a dry portion further along in the board -- basically utilizing the same capillary process which fed the tree when it was alive. Keeping the board fully wet or more center-wet, avoids this capillary migration of pigments which causes stains.

While we're on the subject of the wood, you need to take into consideration that a panel of this type is getting wet only on one face. Since wood is a hydroscopic, as it gets wet it swells somewhat. The tendency therefore is that the front of the panel will bow towards the water, as the wet front expands, and the back remains dry and stable. In my design I reinforced the rear cedar hanger straps with 1" stainless angles, vertically for the full height. This has worked beautifully to keep them perfectly flat.

As for the metalwork, it is all grade 304 stainless steel. The rail hardware system is from Real Sliding Hardware. The model is the Swiss Rod Modern Sliding Hardware system. It's rather pricy, but for a good reason. The track bar is literally solid stainless steel! (I think that alone easily weighed 10 pounds or so!) You can easily move the door with your little pinky-- that's how frictionless the system really is. (This means that you really have to install the track dead level. If you don't, it will roll by itself to the low end.)

Another thing which you might want to be aware of, if you go this route, concerns balancing of the door. It is important when that the rollers are attached to the top of the shutter that they are at the center of gravity for the door panel. If you don't and say, mount the hardware towards the backside of the shutter, the bottom of the shutter will shift closer to the wall. The result you want is a shutter which is hanging truly plumb -- not akimbo!