House 10.3 annotations

1/4" richlite countertops paired with walnut raised bar

Q

e.g. of rough boards to frame kitchen counter wall to 9' (creating light shelf below clerestory windows)

Q

The raised counter is 18" deep. There is about 3" of overlap over the island counter. You could think of this 3" overlap as solid (it contains elctrical and support structure). The clear functional depth of the island counter remaining is a standard 24". Therefore the out-to-out is 18+3+24 = 47". Raised counter is clear vert grain doug fir; counter is mid-black slate. Length of island is 12'6" on sink side, 13' on counter side.

Q

roof structure--here's Lake Flato's inspiration. Simplicity, utility.

Q

roof structure, with pipe supports for deep overhangs (see also barn structure that inspired these)

Q

e.g. of open framing as finish surface--poss for lower level (tho foundation would provide interior to 30", then framing would begin on top of that)

Q

In a Perfect World? Our river-side windows (LR & DR) would be like this--floor-to-ceiling sheets of glass. But this would require them to be tempered, and structural, and cost $$ beyond imagining. 10.3 plan compromises by raising them 18" off floor (so tempered not required). Adequate effect??

Q

OK, so not EXACTLY what 10.3's FP should model (ours will be gas, direct-vented, glass-enclosed) but this is the idea. Big 3-sided clear box, with hearth extending 18" or more on all sides.

Q

again, lower level open stud cavities? Here the 2x6 studs horizontally braced with regular 2x8s creating both shelving and rhythm

Q

thick wall (gorgeous stone that somehow manages to be both modern and rustic) and thin wall. Not 10.3 materials, but sim effect to sliced openings at kitchen, stairs, and high windows.

Q

chimney, if stone, something like this style and color tone

Q

. . . or this.

Q

How does the porch wanna feel? Something like this. But, you know, with screens. And a rain-proof roof.

Q

e.g. simple roof overhangs (though these much larger than ours)

Q

e.g. of how corrugated metal roof (but not Corten) could be handled on two main volumes? Simple detailing, deep overhangs

Q

e.g. another way to handle wooden cladding of entry

Q

another e.g. open-joist ceiling

Q

How raw could the downstairs be? Almost like this--if insulation around foundation is rigid board on exterior. Concrete foundation could rise to 30" and be exposed on interior; above 30" could be unclad wood framing. Ceiling would be open i-beam joists, painted white.

Q

another, simpler, e.g. of open-joist ceiling

Q

treatment for stairs. Dead simple. Stringers + treads

Q

open-joist ceiling -- for main (middle) level ceiling.

Q

cladding for street facade (and wrapping on east and west just as far as corner windows shown on rendering): black-stained Western Red Cedar slats installed as rainscreen. For area shown as dark gray on rendering. BUT question: How does this version of rainscreen work, given that there are spaces between all vertical members? Haven't been able to figure out what water-barrier sheathing is, or how to protect against bugs penetrating openings. . . .

Q

e.g. of slatted shutters imagined for west wall of porch -- creating privacy, channeling views, and protecting against west sun and weather.

Q

another example of simple corrugated metal roof -- for roof over small entry volume.

Q

corrugated metal roof (simpler/cheaper than standing seam)--for roof over entry volume. Roofs over main volumes could also be this if not too expensive; otherwise would be basic asphalt shingles.

Q

e.g. of wood cladding for small entry volume and "panels" between street-facade windows (high windows, kitchen windows, LR corner windows, all shown brown in rendering). This is ipe with Penofin Oil finish.

Q

e.g. of black painted fiber cement panels (large but lapped) -- for all sides of House 10.3 except street facade.

Q