Sculpture can add a focal point to a garden, providing a visual and atmospheric feature — whether subtle or dramatic — and revealing a glimpse of the owner’s character. “Garden sculpture can add a dramatic, striking and unique element to most gardens if the right piece and position are carefully considered,” Taylor says. “It can also add a personal touch to a space. As artwork is an individual thing, your personality can be expressed through art.” This sphere in a London garden is actually a sundial. It is made from stainless steel and sits on a plinth surrounded by a box hedge.
Limit planting space. While I’m not advocating wall-to-wall hardscape from a design perspective, there’s no denying that it would cut down on the time spent mowing, mulching and general garden bed maintenance. Look at the ratio of planting space to patio in this backyard in Wiltshire, England. Despite its small square footage, the narrow planting bed bordering the seating area has big impact in the design by being lifted to waist-height in an L-shaped raised bed. The dwarf trees, trained to a standard form, and the mix of culinary herbs and perennial mourning bride flowers (Scabiosa atropurpurea) don’t require too much care to look good.
Consider doing away with the lawn. California has been suffering through a massive drought. If you live in an area that regularly experiences water shortages, it may be time to give up on the green lawn once and for all. A few large beds of perennials that are well suited to your climate, combined with wide gravel paths and seating areas, may be a better choice. The yard shown here has a small allée of trees and sculptures that draws the eye toward the house, for a look that is quite romantic — in a space as well designed as this one, you won’t even miss the grass!
WA-SO design -有限会社 和想- SaveEmail Plant Types Japanese maples. The graceful branch forms and delicate leaves of Acer palmatum have long been cherished by Japanese gardeners. The trees stay relatively small — 15 to 25 feet, smaller with pruning —making them beautiful additions to smaller backyards or courtyard gardens. Choose from varieties with leaf colors ranging from chartreuse to plum.
Rock gardens or Zen gardens. Originally designed as meditation gardens, dry landscapes made up of a composition of rocks, moss and small trees are also common elements of Japanese gardens. The pale sand or fine gravel spread to cover the ground represents water and is often raked into ripples. Even on a small scale in a home garden, these stylized landscapes can be very peaceful to gaze upon.
Typical project length: Installation time depends on the size of the path and complexity of the materials. Walkways made of custom poured concrete or those that require fitting together irregular flagstones will take longer than those using precast pavers. Project length can vary from multiple days for a simple installation to several weeks for more in-depth designs or difficult sites. Best time to start: Dry season. Ideally, paths should be installed start to finish on dry soil and, if using poured concrete, in relatively warm weather.
Grapes may be traditional for over arbors, but think outside the vine culture. Hops, that standard ingredient for beer, can work just as well, if not better, to cover an arbor or pergola or to train along a fence. You can even train hops, with support, as a small tree. They're vigorous climbers — great for quick coverage, but you will have to cut them back to keep them under control. The light-green leaves are large and decorative, and the flowers on the female plant are also green and cone-shape with some fragrance.
Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), another vigorous climber, is a perfect quick cover on a structure using a self-clinging climber. It is shown here in its green summer clothing, which makes an excellent background for paler plants, but its vinelike leaves give a dazzling autumn display of red and crimson.
Cover a Screen Some rampant climbers have a bad reputation, but used carefully and kept under control, they can be of great use as screening plants on suitable structures. The most rampant of these climbers in temperate climates is Russian Vine (Fallopia baldschuanica), but even this can be treated almost as a topiary through constant trimming and shaping of its shoots. It also has beautiful racemes of pink-tinged white flowers held in abundance over the late summer.
Save Space With Upward Growth Plants brighten up any boundary and make it a bit more interesting. If you don't have space for a hedge or wall shrub, climbers can be great space savers in a small garden — they climb vertically and won't protrude into the yard if you give them a little care and pruning. In this yard, a fast-growing free climber conserves space, and the planting now seems to flow from the beds to the top of the wall in one swift movement.
Of all the wall shrubs, Pyracantha is probably the most used. It is evergreen and produces white flowers in late spring, followed by sparkling berries. Here the Pyracantha has been carefully trimmed to link with the formal, minimalistic garden design. For a softer look, evergreen wall shrubs can be interplanted with climbers such as summer-flowering clematis or the herbaceous perennial Tropaeolum peregrinum, the 'Canary Creeper'. If you are planting a shrub-climber combination, make sure that the climber isn't too vigorous or it will overwhelm the shrub.
This garden exemplifies a good use of the two main groups of plants that can be used to cover and decorate walls. Wall shrubs, such as the Pyracantha forming the dramatic garden archway, tend to be slower growing than the other group — the climbers. Climbers can be divided into free climbers, such as ivy, that use aerial roots to self-attach, and clingy climbers, such as clematis, which need some sort of exterior support (like a trellis) to cling to with their tendrils or leaves.
Soften Imposing Hardscapes The boundaries of small, enclosed spaces can be overpowering, and through the use of plants we can soften and even decorate garden walls in the same way we use wallpaper in our homes. Here, evergreen ivy covers the wall and surrounds the outdoor fireplace, but is kept carefully under control. Create an even more decorative use of ivy by planting different varieties together, allowing them to grow and interweave for a kaleidoscope of colors.
Le jardinet SaveEmail Pruning and Deadheading Roses: Seek the advice of a rosarian for pruning recommendations for your rose variety. Generally, climbing roses do not need pruning except for shape or rejuvenation. If the rose blooms only once and then sets rose hips, do not cut off the dead flowers. If it is a repeat bloomer, you will need to remove old flowers to encourage a fresh flush of blooms later in the season. Clematis: It is important to know what type of clematis you have, as the timing and degree of pruning are crucial. Seek the advice of a local nursery professional or specialist. It is not necessary to deadhead clematis.
Planting tips. Both plants thrive in rich, moisture-retentive but well-drained soil in full sun. Clematis prefers shade at its roots, which can be provided by a ground cover. Dig a planting hole to a depth of 2 feet and work in some compost. The hole should be wide enough to accommodate the roots easily. Plant the rose no deeper than it was in the container. There are conflicting reports as to the benefit of planting a clematis deeper than it was in the pot; some suggest that planting deeper reduces the chance of fungal disease (wilt), while others refute that. Personally I do plant it 2 to 4 inches deeper and seem to get stronger growth as a result. Fertilizer. Both roses and clematises benefit from a handful of bonemeal being added to the hole at planting time to promote strong root development. A 2- to 3-inch layer of compost over the root zone in winter is also beneficial, but keep this away from the clematis stems. Alfalfa promotes the growth of new canes and stems from the base of both the rose and the clematis. Gently work a cupful into the soil surface in spring and again after the plants flower. Alternatively, use an organic rose fertilizer as directed; this will be s...
MJ McCabe-Garden Design SaveEmail 2. To frame a window. Shorter roses and clematises are ideal for framing windows, as shown here, although some occasional, judicious trimming may be necessary. An advantage of growing these two plants together is that with correct pruning, the clematis will flower from the base to the top, its flowers masking the inevitable “bare legs” of the climbing rose.
Le jardinet SaveEmail How to Use the Combination 1. To soften a home’s facade. Many homes feature a prominent two- or three-car garage that can be visually overwhelming. Sometimes a pocket of soil will be left at the base of each supporting column, which at first glance has little potential. Yet this is the perfect size to plant both a rose and a clematis to add color and drama to the facade. Here the intensely fragrant Westerland rose perfumes the air and acts as a support for the purple clematis (Clematis jackmanii ‘Superba’). These two are planted on either side of a wide garage, scrambling up a discreet trellis until they reach a decorative pergola that spans the top. Three years after their planting, both roses and clematises are mingling in a glorious colorful profusion, draping the pergola in midsummer — a truly unforgettable sight.
The backdrop of native trees adds depth without interfering visually with the seasonal display. Clusters of evergreen Japanese sedge grass (Carex morrowii 'Aureo-variegata', hardy to -20°F) are planted at intervals along both sides of the path while low-growing shrubs, including the purple leaf Royal Burgundy barberry (Berberis thunbergii 'Royal Burgundy', hardy to -30°F), provide a middle tier of interest without vying for dominance.
It could easily have seemed disjointed and busy, but Matisse’s skill is once again his ability to get the scale, balance and proportions just right. The sinuous shape of this otherwise simple gravel path works well for the same reason — it is balanced within the context of the space. The placing of the pavers within the pathway would be a great exercise for using cutouts in the design process.
General gravel notes: Buy in bulk or by the yard, rather than by the bag, to save money. Always inquire about delivery fees when ordering. Gravels are typically available by bags at home improvement stores and by the bag, yard or ton at landscape supply yards. Consider installing a contractor-grade landscape fabric underneath your gravel area. It suppresses weeds and allows rain to penetrate while keeping the rock from sinking into the ground. There is some conversation among gardeners about the efficacy and value of this fabric, and although I have always found it helpful, I encourage you to read up about the pros and cons before making your decision. Shown: A pea gravel patio bordering a tropical garden
The basics: These are some of my favorite small rocks. Mexican beach pebbles are smooth and rounded and have a grayish-black uniform color. I like to use this rock decoratively in the garden — to topdress container plantings, to puddle around boulders and to line borders of patios and beds. Cost: This material is sold by the bag for $20 and up, by the pound for 35 cents and up and by the ton for $700 and up, making it a fairly pricey option. Advantages: It's an elegant and sophisticated rock option. Disadvantages: It is fairly expensive and can be difficult to locate if you don't live in a large urban area. Special considerations: With such a distinctive look, Mexican beach pebbles are ideal for contemporary or Zen-like gardens. Maintenance: Similar to that for gravel and river rock — keep on top of the weeds and use a blower to clean up fallen debris.
Crushed Granite Gravel The basics: This one is closely related to decomposed granite, but it's a bit chunkier in texture and size. While DG has quite a bit of silt and almost sand-like particles, crushed granite gravel has larger particles. The texture is not smooth like pea gravel, but this choice is perfect for walkways and patios, as well as for setting off xeric plants. Cost: Crushed granite gravel is sold by the yard for $60 and up, depending upon your location and the size. Those living in more rural areas may pay more for this material, as it's more expensive to truck in than more readily available materials like DG. Advantages: It provides great texture in the garden, and is a step up from DG for gardeners who want a more refined or contemporary look. Disadvantages: It can be hard to locate a source if you live in a more rural area, and it can be twice the cost of the similar but more humble decomposed granite. Special considerations: It's similar to decomposed granite. Maintenance: The upkeep for crushed granite gravel is similar to that for decomposed granite and pea gravel, as it has some of the same qualities as each of those materials.
River Rock The basics: River rocks are larger than pea gravel, typically 1 inch and larger in diameter. They're available in a variety of colors, costs and sizes, and are used to create dry creek beds or to direct drainage through a property. Cost: This type of rock is sold by the pound or by the ton. Per-pound costs range from 5 cents to 35 cents, and per-ton costs run $100 to $700, depending upon variety. Advantages: It's readily available in different types and costs. Disadvantages: It can be difficult to weed through this type of rock; maintenance should be consistent so you can avoid unpleasant cleanups. Special considerations: To create a realistic-looking dry creek bed, use different sizes of river rock with some small and large boulder accents — Mother Nature doesn't limit herself to just one size rock. Maintenance: As with other types of rock, stay on top of weeding, as once weeds get out of control, it's very difficult to remove them. Use a blower to remove seasonal debris, like fallen leaves and soil. Installing landscape fabric underneath river rock is a great way to keep this heavier rock from settling into the soil below.
This flagstone walkway has pea gravel in the crevices.
Pea Gravel The basics: Pea gravel is a small, rounded rock that got its name because the rocks are about the size of a pea. In reality pea gravel comes in different sizes — 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch and 5/8 inch are common sizes. It typically comes in a range of tan, brown and white color mixes, but do your homework to learn the cost of each. Use pea gravel for patio areas, pathways and filling in between flat rock, like flagstone. Cost: Pea gravel is sold by the bag for around $3 or by the cubic yard for $33 to $50 and up. Advantages: Most kinds are fairly inexpensive and readily available. Disadvantages: It can be difficult to push a lawn mower or any wheeled equipment over a gravel path, as the wheels tend to sink into the gravel. It can stray out of place if not properly edged. Special considerations: There are several different types of pea gravel, and some are significantly more expensive (rainbow gravel, for example). Be sure you know the difference when you are choosing your gravel to avoid sticker shock upon checkout. Maintenance: Stay on top of weeding so it doesn't become a maintenance issue. Pea gravel can have a tendency to stray out of its area if there's no barrier ...
Here's a mix of decomposed granite (top) and pea gravel (bottom), separated by a line of blue fescue (Festuca glauca).
I love rock in the garden, but I particularly love gravel and other small rocks. I work them into nearly every design I create for my clients, as well as in my own landscape. Why the love affair with gravel? It serves many purposes, from solving drainage issues to lending textural appeal; it crunches under your feet; and it comes in many different colors and forms. Check out my favorites and see which one will work for you in your landscape. Traditional Landscape by www.KarlGercens.com www.KarlGercens.com SaveEmail Decomposed Granite The basics: Decomposed granite, or DG, is a granitic rock that has weathered to the point of breaking into very small pieces and silt-like particles. It comes in a reddish-tan color that will fade to a lighter tan over time. Decomposed granite is ideal for pathways and rustic patios, and can also be used as a topdressing around arid plants. It's sold by the cubic yard. Cost: DG is sold by the bag for around $3 if you simply need to add to or fill in a small area, or by the cubic yard for $35 to $50. One cubic yard (a 3-foot cube) will fill the back of a standard pickup truck. Advantages: It's relatively inexpensive and readily available. Disadvant...
Cassy Aoyagi, FormLA Landscaping SaveEmail A calming Buddhist statue sits atop a recycled-concrete garden wall in front of vibrant purple Cedros Island verbena (Verbena lilacina). There are numerous variations on each of these styles, and you can celebrate your own cultural heritage or the history of your region by incorporating objects or stylistic accents that have symbolic meaning and significance. Next: Maintaining your native garden
Eclectic. An eclectic garden by definition is a combination of other styles. Going for an eclectic look can free you up to express your taste and personality. But eclectic can quickly slide into chaotic if design principles are not followed. Be sure to use repetition of the same plants for a sense of harmony, and avoid an overly long list of plants. And includes places for the eye to rest, such as hardscapes or ground covers. Try to create a theme for the objects in your landscape to prevent a sense of randomness. But have fun with introducing unexpected elements. Rules, after all, are meant to be broken sometimes.
The purple flowers of Cedros Island verbena (Verbena lilacina) mix with vibrant yellow and orange monkey flowers (Diplacus sp.) and vibrant pink Clarkia wildflowers in this California native cottage garden. An Australian native bottlebrush tree provides a vibrant red nectar source for hummingbirds nearly year-round. Cottage. A native cottage garden evokes a sense of abundance, emphasizing a profusion of color and blooms and including numerous plant species with different textures. This style allows for a more diverse plant palette and is achieved by planting to fill a garden space. For example, you’ll want to know that the mature size of a ceanothus is 10 feet by 10 feet, and space the next plant roughly 5 feet from the center of your ceanothus. There is less emphasis on negative space in a cottage garden, though carving out spaces for the eye to rest can still be beneficial. Use warm, rustic materials for hardscapes, such as aged wood for fencing and aged brick or stone for a walkway, and incorporate garden objects that draw the eye to important areas of your garden. Vintage garden furniture also makes an excellent complement to a native cottage garden. Wildflowers absolutely...
Dune sedge (Carex pansa) makes for a lovely ground cover and provides plenty of space for the eye to rest in this classical garden designed by Wynne Wilson. Classical. Classical garden style emphasizes balance, proportions and symmetry, and evokes the ancient architecture of Greece and Italy. This effect can be achieved with native plants — just be sure to use a limited plant palette and consider plants that can be pruned into more formal shapes, such as rounded shrubs, boxy hedges or columnar plantings. In Southern California, Catalina cherry (Prunus ilicifolia lyonii), native to the Channel Islands, makes an excellent formal hedge.
The red tubular flowers of California native snapdragon dangle over square pavers here, with a fine gravel neatly edging the path. Negative space is an important part of architectural landscape design. This means leaving some empty space for the eye to rest between, in front of or around and behind plants. Negative space can be created with low-growing native ground cover plants or with inorganic materials such as gravel or mulch. Spacing your plants so you can see the full shape of each plant is another way to utilize negative space. Create a sense of spaciousness by shaping hardscape areas, such as walkways or seating areas, with clearly defined lines.
This modernist backyard utilizes clean, delineated hardscape materials of gravel, decomposed granite and concrete. Native penstemons are planted in squares, while a palo verde tree casts delicate shadows on the decomposed granite. Young ceanothus is planted as a screen against an aluminum fence. Modern. An architectural or a more modern design emphasizes plant shapes and foliage textures over flowers — though you can certainly include flowering plants. A key rule of thumb is to keep the number of plant species you are using to a minimum. Less is more. That doesn’t mean you can’t create a garden that feels full, alive and lush. Rather, it means choosing a minimalist palette of three to five species of plants, for example, and repeating them throughout the space. Pick plants that are well-scaled to the space: For a small space, pick smaller native grasses, ground covers and shrubs that reach a mature size no larger than 4 feet tall and wide. If you have the space, one courtyard-size tree or large shrub pruned into a tree can be a nice focal point or shade creator. For larger areas, you can pick larger-scale plants, but stick to the principle of a restrained palette with an emphasi...
Basic Garden Styles If you are in the position of creating a native garden from scratch, here are some stylistic approaches to consider as you plan. These principles are also helpful to keep in mind when editing or updating an existing garden. Your landscape style choice might be influenced by the architecture of your home, the history of your area or garden spaces you find inspiring.
This dry creek interplanted with a mix of California native grasses directs and captures rainwater. Design by Richard Grigsby of The Great Outdoors Landscape Design & Construction. Most of us live in urban or suburban areas, where our landscapes have a visual impact on many other people, and it’s important to utilize design principles when creating your native garden. In the end, you will be much happier with the result. As a general rule of thumb, almost all beautiful landscapes utilize repetition of the same species, or a variation of the same species, to create a sense of cohesion and harmony. You’ll notice lots of repetition in gardens designed by Mother Nature too. By picking one or two plants to repeat throughout your native landscape — among your other plants — you will create a sense of calm and order.
Witch alder (Fothergilla x gardenii) For gardeners in the Northeastern U.S., Fothergilla is a great selection that offers unparalleled color in October and November. This is 'Mt. Airy', which was named by the great plantsman Michael Dirr for a sport he found at the Mt. Airy Arboretum in Cincinnati, and it's one of the best. USDA zones: 4 to 8 Water requirement: Average Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 5 to 6 feet tall Planting tips: Nothing seems to bother this plant — neither insects nor diseases — and it holds up well in areas where winter temperatures can dip to 20 degrees below.
Staghorn Sumac (Rhus typhina) No other word for it but "crazy"! A shrub that definitely stands out, the cultivar 'Laciniata' goes from ordinary green during the summer to this shade in late October in my Vermont garden. It looks kind of spooky, turning blood red right around Halloween. USDA zones: 4 to 8 Water requirement: Needs regular watering (weekly); water more in hot conditions Light requirement: Full sun to partial shade Mature size: 10 to 12 feet tall Planting tips: I grow this shrub on the edge of a wooded area, where it receives partial sun. Use it in areas where it can sprawl, as its branching is irregular.
Smooth Witherod (Viburnum nudum 'Winterthur') Viburnum 'Winterthur' is one of my favorite shrubs and the earliest to turn color in my garden once the thermometer dips below 35 degrees Fahrenheit. The glossy, elliptical leaves are simply stunning with the small, dark blue fruit clusters, and they hold their burgundy color in the fall for a really long time. USDA zones: 5 to 9 Water requirement: Average Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 6 to 8 feet tall Planting tips: Cold-climate gardeners on the edge of USDA zone 5 can grow this shrub best in protected microclimates.
Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia 'Brilliantissima') Native chokeberry is an underused shrub that will dress up a border with its display of carmine fruit and glossy foliage in late fall. Go for maximum impact by planting evergreens for contrast. USDA zones: 4 to 9 Water requirement: Average Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 6 to 10 feet tall Planting tips: A member of the rose family, Aronias produce a delicate white flower in June followed by a fruit display in October. The fruit persists after the leaves fall, making this a great plant for winter interest.
Coral Bell (Heuchera macrorhiza) Semievergreen coral bells make tough ground covers. This is the cultivar 'Autumn Bride', which blooms late and then turns color around bulb-planting time. In my garden it makes a great companion with purple ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius 'Diablo'). USDA zones: 3 to 9 Water requirement: Average Light requirement: Full sun to partial shade Mature size: 'Autumn Bride' grows to 12 inches tall. Planting tips: Adaptable to different soil types. Grow coral bells as a versatile ground cover around taller shrubs for year-round interest.
Strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa) Strawberry plants make a good ground cover, standing up to frost and light snow. They turn delicious shades of crimson once cold weather hits. USDA zones: 3 to 8 Water requirement: Average, but may need supplemental watering in warmer zones Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: Plants are low growing; they spread by runners and form clumps to 8 inches tall. Planting tips: Plant crowns in early spring in well-drained soil amended with compost. Keep the plants within bounds by cutting out runners and transplanting them (or giving them to grateful neighbors).
Showy Stonecrop (Sedum 'Autumn Joy') A must for the fall garden. Pair it with a contrasting plant like fountain grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides) for a knockout combination. The cut flowers are great for arrangements, too — put them in a vase without water and let them dry for a Thanksgiving display. USDA zones: 3 to 8 Water requirement: Average Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 18 inches tall Planting tips: Stonecrops are clump forming and benefit from regular divisions to keep within bounds. Dig and divide in spring when foliage first appears.
Winterberry (Ilex verticillata) Winterberry is a deciduous North American shrub that's adaptable, easy to grow and one of the best for cold-weather conditions. This is 'Berry Nice', which needs the male plant 'Southern Gentleman' for pollination (the shrubs are dioecious, with both female and male plants needed for optimal fruit set). USDA zones: 3 to 9 (find your zone) Water requirement: Average Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 6 to 8 feet tall Planting tips: Especially good for low, wet areas where drainage is an issue; winterberry also makes a good hedge or wildlife border, as its fruit is favored by birds.
Enjoy the fruits of fall planting. With the right timing, a little research, healthy plants, wide holes, proper watering and mulch, those plants you added in the fall will soon grow into their beautifully mature shapes, fulfilling your vision of a beautiful landscape. Shown: The same landscape two years after planting, filled with flowering damianita, firecracker penstemon and purple trailing lantana (Lantana montevidensis).
Be patient while new plants grow. This can be the hardest tip of all to follow. After all the work we put into selecting and planting our new landscape, we want to see instant results — not small, scrawny plants with large amounts of empty space. The temptation at this point is to overplant the area. If you do this, your garden will look great at the beginning, but as your plants grow to their mature size, they will quickly become overcrowded, ruining the nicely designed landscape you worked so hard on. If those empty spots in your new landscape keep bothering you, plant short-lived perennials or annuals in between young plants until your new plants fill out. Shown: A newly planted fall landscape
Add a layer of mulch around new plants. Mulch adds an extra layer of protection for plants — especially new ones. A 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch will help retain soil moisture, keep the soil cool in summer and warm in winter, and help keep weeds away. When applying mulch it is important not to let it touch the base of your tree or plant, because it can create a warm, moist area where disease and insects can flourish. A general rule is to keep mulch at least 3 to 6 inches away from the base of a plant.
Don’t add fertilizer to newly planted plants right away. When a plant is first transplanted, it devotes most of its energy toward growing more roots. Once it has a good root system, the plant then begins to focus on its top growth (the part we see aboveground). When you add fertilizer just after planting, you disrupt the natural cycle and force the plant to concentrate on its top growth when it doesn’t have the roots to support it. For nonnative plants wait until you see new growth before adding fertilizer. For fruit trees it is best to wait until one year after planting before adding fertilizer. Native plants usually do not need any fertilizer, even once established. Adding fertilizer to native plants can actually have the opposite result of what you want — it will promote the growth of more foliage, but you’ll get fewer flowers. Water new plants deeply and often. New plants need more water than plants that have been in the landscape for more than a year. You may need to water every day during the first week after planting, gradually reducing the frequency until your plant has been in the ground for one year and can then be watered on the same schedule as your other plants. The...
Improve the soil with compost when planting nonnative plants. Compost improves the water-holding capabilities of sandy soils while helping to lighten clay soils. It also adds nutrients and microorganisms to the soil, which benefits nonnative plants. A good guideline is to add one part compost to one part native soil to the planting hole and mix them together before planting. Adding soil amendments is generally not necessary for native plants, which are adapted to the soil in your area, unless you need to improve the drainage or water-holding capacity of your soil. Shown: Blackfoot daisy, which is native to the Southwest
Dig your hole three times as wide as the root ball. Contrary to popular belief, the majority of a plant’s roots grow outward. Digging a hole that is wider than the root ball helps the roots grow more quickly, and as a result the plant will become established more quickly. It’s important to note that the depth of the hole should be the same depth as the root ball or even 2 inches shallower, as settling can occur after planting. Shown: A proper-size hole, three times as wide as the root ball
Choose smaller trees and plants for easier transplanting. While you may be tempted to plant the largest tree in the nursery, you may be surprised to find that larger plants take a longer time to become established after being transplanted in comparison to smaller ones. The reason is that smaller plants are younger and don’t need as many roots to support their top growth. Once they’re planted, their roots will grow outward and top growth will soon follow. The same plant in a bigger size has a larger amount of top growth for its roots to support, and containers limit how much its roots can grow. Because of the plant’s age and large size, it can take a longer time for it become established in the landscape. This is a popular tip because it not only saves money but also makes digging holes easier.
Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting SaveEmail There is more to examine than the top in regard to a plant’s health. You should also check out the roots before buying a plant. Sometimes nursery plants have been sitting around for a long time in their containers, and as a result the roots have grown around the root ball in a circular pattern, slowly causing the plant to become root-bound (shown). Root-bound plants have a hard time when planted because the roots keep growing around themselves instead of out into the soil, where they would have access to water and nutrients. Eventually, root-bound plants can die. If you do have a root-bound plant, you can try to correct the problem by taking a sharp knife and making vertical cuts about 2 to 3 inches apart around the entire root ball, extending from the top to the bottom of the root ball. This helps to disrupt the circular growth pattern and will help the roots grow outward into the soil.
Select healthy plants. This particular tip may sound quite simple, but you need to look at both the top and bottom of the plant to determine how healthy it is. Look for healthy foliage without brown or yellowing leaves, which can be a sign of under- or overwatering. If the soil in the container is soggy or smells, leave it alone and walk away. Check for signs of insects or disease on the foliage and stems. Chewed leaves and webbing can be signs of insect damage. Plants with pale or dark spots on the leaves can be infected with a disease, and it’s best to avoid them and keep them from inadvertently contaminating the existing plants in your garden. While you may be tempted to purchase a plant that is in full flower, it’s best to skip it in favor of the one that has unopened flowers or none at all. At first that doesn’t make much sense, because we all want a beautiful flowering plant rather than one without blooms. The reason to select the plant that is not in full bloom: The flowers will usually drop soon after planting due to the stress of transplanting. Besides, a good portion of the bloom time was already used up while the plant sat at the nursery. Once in the ground, the plan...
How large will it grow? Once in the ground for a few years, that small plant in a nursery container can grow exponentially. A 1-foot-tall and -wide shrub can quickly grow to over 6 feet tall and wide, leaving you with an overplanted landscape. Make sure you are prepared for the mature size of the plant you select and allow enough room for it to grow. 4. What type of maintenance will the plant require? Most native plants are generally low maintenance, but those that aren’t may require a lot of pruning, watering and fertilizing that you may not want to do. The answer to these questions can often be found on the plant label. Your local nursery professional can be a good resource to ask these questions of as well. Local cooperative extension offices and master gardeners have lists of plants that do well in your area.
Research plants before buying. Taking some time to research plants before you buy will save you time, money, maintenance and buyer’s remorse more than anything else you do. Find out the answers to these important questions before purchasing a plant for your garden: 1. Is it native or adapted to your climate? Plants that are ill suited for your climate will require a lot more resources (water, fertilizer, maintenance) to keep them alive, often with disappointing results. 2. What exposure does it require: full sun, partial shade or total shade? One of the most common gardening mistakes is placing a new plant in the wrong light exposure, where it struggles to survive.
Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens SaveEmail How long into fall that you can plant obviously varies by location: In the northern regions or at higher elevations, you’ll want to be digging in August and September, whereas toward the coasts and the southern regions you might be able to go into December (Christmas presents!). Over the years I’ve come to do most of my planting and dividing in fall, so that when spring comes, all I have to do is go outside and enjoy the fruits of my autumn labor. The plants will thank you with more robust root systems and hopefully a show worth savoring from the nearest garden bench.
It’s easier to see where you need to add plants. Of course, you should leave your plants up for winter to help the garden insulate itself, capture moisture and protect overwintering pollinators, but it also will help you see where the gaps between plants are. Maybe a grass is needed in an open spot, or you realize you want some spring blooms to pop in one bed. Now’s the time to make those changes while the mosquitoes and leaves are gone. You can actually see the ground and get to it through the skeletons of the year’s growth.
Smaller sizes make for better plants. This is a bit of a generalization, but overall you might as well save money and buy smaller plants — 3-inch pots and plugs, trees in gallon containers etc. With a smaller root zone that, hopefully, isn’t spun round and round the root ball, you’ll get a plant that will suffer less from transplant shock and become established as fast as, or faster than, a larger specimen. I love the small pots pictured here. It’s easier to tease out the roots so they make contact with the new soil in my garden, and they’re easier to haul around. After a few hard freezes, make sure you have a few inches of mulch tucked in around your plants to prevent frost heaving (if you live in an area where the ground freezes).
Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting SaveEmail You can plant later. Let’s say you buy a tree at 50 percent off before the nursery closes for winter in mid-October. Ideally, you’d plant it right away, but really you’re fine waiting several weeks, so feel free to go watch some football. Again, I’m in zone 5, and we garden mavericks dig shrubs and trees into late November. In fact, it might be easier on the trees once their leaves are gone. There’s less pressure to devote resources to keeping them alive, and all of their effort is dedicated to growing roots. That’s the benefit of fall digging for all plants: You’re helping them concentrate on roots, so when they come back in spring, they’re ready to put on more top growth in the form of lovely foliage and stunning blooms. If you plant in spring or summer, you have to wait an entire year to see those results.
Less watering means lower maintenance. If you plant in spring or summer, more often than not you have to dutifully keep up with watering during those first few weeks or months. Constant observation of your new darlings gets tedious as the heat ramps ups. When planting in fall, I water the plants in their pots a few hours before digging so they can soak up what they need, then I stick them in the ground and leave until forever. Now, I’m talking perennials here. For shrubs and trees, it’s good to thoroughly water the soil in the new hole to get it nice and tight around the new roots you’ve teased out from the root ball, and a warm day in January might be perfect for watering if it’s been a dry winter. But I easily plant perennials into early November here in zone 5, in Nebraska (find your zone).
Garden centers have us tricked, and we help them trick us. After a long winter of reading magazines full of tantalizing plants and flowers, we itch for the first warm day. Nurseries make most of their annual income in the spring, which almost everyone considers to be the best time to plant a garden. But it isn’t. Fall is the best time to garden, and it’s about time we realized this. Not only is cooler weather easier on new plants and tired bones, but planting in a spent garden with rain on the horizon also has advantages. Here’s more on why planting in fall can make spring gardens more robust than we might have imagined.
"Winter interest" is a landscape term that means there's something beautiful to look at during the cold season. Usually, that means grasses or redtwig dogwoods, but any old perennial will do — like the ones shown here. Winter interest isn't just for us, though; it's for birds, butterflies, frogs and soil microbes munching on leaves and making the garden healthier for summer. A lot will be going on if you leave the garden up until a spring cut-down — get out there and enjoy it this winter!
Gardens thrive in all four seasons. When the first spring blooms arise, you won't feel like you missed them (as much), because so much was going on in your garden all winter long — leaving the plants up makes winter seem shorter. Those first spring flowers won't seem as much like a relief as a confirmation that a garden never really sleeps, and you'll be seeing that firsthand in all four seasons.
Even robin redbreasts will stop by and surprise you. Did you know there are robins around in winter? They tend to roost in groups, going about only when thirsty or hungry. A heated birdbath is great, but so are all of those fermenting berries on shrubs and trees. Lots of other songbirds will also be enjoying seeds from standing perennial cover, too.
Enjoy new neighbors. Leaving up your plants welcomes all sorts of wildlife you'd never see, even though they're quite common. One year this sharp-shinned hawk visited because juncos were taking refuge in the thick garden cover. The hawk did eventually nab a meal, but that's OK — the garden was helping everyone, doing what nature does best and right out the back door. What a cure for seasonal affective disorder.
Discover a new dimension. You won't want to miss frosty mornings when every leaf, stem and seed head is accented with fascinating patterns of silvery shadows — halos of ice and snow that make the garden exquisite. And did you know that a snowflake is a fractal — a mathematical equation — just like coastlines, mountain ranges, trees, sunflowers and even the human circulatory system? Everything in nature can be mapped out with math, and nowhere is that more obvious than with a winter frost. Take your kids outside and expose them to a healthy double groan — math and nature.
Protect your plants. Leaving the perennials standing will help them gather snow. That snow in turn will insulate the roots when it gets really cold and also add moisture to the soil. That’s a double win for low-maintenance gardening. Besides, isn’t this image just gorgeous? Viva snow!
Use organic mulches. A 3-inch layer of mulch will help reduce water evaporation, stabilize soil temperatures, slow soil erosion and compaction, and reduce weeds. Mulch also adds color and texture to the landscape — include it in your planning process.
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