A combination of his ‘no dig’ technique plus layered planting allows Levy to pack in the maximum number of plants. The layered approach cuts down on the need to water too. “Some plants retain moisture, and those plants that provide ground cover keep the soil moist too,” Levy says. “It saves you time and effort.”
7. Be ambitious with a small plot If your small patch has thwarted your dreams of being more self-sufficient, it could be time to reassess the situation. Esiah Levy of Urban Edible Garden Design has transformed this little garden in Croydon into a fertile wonderland. It’s just 4.5 x 2.7 metres, yet Levy has packed in 23 trees, and rotates other edible crops including kale, turnips, beetroot, carrots, soft fruit including raspberries and blackcurrants, and all kinds of apples, pears and more unusual orchard fruits.
Cleverly, the fence serves more than one function too; discreet panels open to reveal watertight storage spaces behind the fence, inside one of which the owner keeps garden tools. There’s even a planter embedded into the top of the fence, out of which the yew hedge is growing, boosting height and adding privacy.
4. Add a feature fence If you don’t have a sprawling outdoor patch, it’s likely your fence will be fairly visible, at least in parts of the garden. So make it a good one. Stefano Marinaz, the designer of this chic London patch, clad the two side walls and rear wall in the beautiful hardwood, iroko, choosing an unusual horizontal design with slats of varied sizes. “It’s strong and it lasts well,” says Marinaz. “It will eventually pale to more of a silver shade. We don’t like to treat the wood – we prefer to let the timber become its natural colour through weathering.”
3. Plant vertically to max a small garden Struggling for space for lots of planters or flowerbeds? This pocket-sized Sussex garden cleverly creates a sense of lushness despite its weeny footprint. Its owner, artist Jessica Zoob, planted lots of climbers, including honeysuckle, jasmine and climbing rose. “It’s a very vertical garden,” she says. “I chose mainly white planting, which looks very simple. I wanted plants that would keep coming back and look beautiful all year round.”
… which is a more exposed seating area with loungers tucked behind tall, whispering grasses (just visible on the right, here). Beyond that, Eyre created a play area for the children. But even if you only have room to create a little dining nook, let this one inspire you. The pergola provides intimacy within the overall space, making it more likely to be used regularly. Since the garden faces south, this also creates a space to eat, gather or have a cup of tea out of the direct glare of the sun.
2. Create a shady dining zone This inviting, jasmine-covered dining area is just one of the ‘zones’ garden designer and landscape architect Kate Eyre created in a reasonably large south London garden. The original garden was long, narrow and somewhat featureless, so Eyre broke it down into manageable spaces for the owners to enjoy – a trick that even owners of dinkier gardens can employ on a smaller scale, and one that typically will give the illusion of a larger space, since there’s more going on in it. This table area is part of a generous patio adjacent to the house, and in front of that a lawn stretches to zone two…
The planting in Hwang’s garden is soft, taking the sharp edges from the hard landscaping; Digitalis purpurea ‘alba’ and Eremurus screen the outdoor room, while ferns and grasses, including Stipa and Briza, add texture. Iris and poppy add to the cottage-garden feel. Yet none of this compromises the garden’s smart capabilities: circuits for lighting, irrigation and water features use WeMo Insight switches that connect to a phone app, allowing them to be controlled from anywhere. If you’re installing or replacing the electrics in your garden, it’s easy to add an app-controlled element like this, which simply plugs into a wall outlet. You could even add this capability to existing garden circuits, however, be aware that these wi-fi-enabled plugs are not for external use and should only be plugged into outdoor circuits that have indoor plug sockets.
1. Introduce ‘smart’ technology (while embracing nature) This enviable outside space was one of the show gardens at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show in 2016. The stylish Scandi-meets-English-country-garden outdoor room was designed by Hay Joung Hwang of Hay Designs, and built by Randle Siddeley for the technology company LG. Hwang’s idea, inspired by the smart technology used in many homes, was to add tech elements to the garden without losing any of its natural beauty.
Outdoor room Last but not least, make your landscaping a fabulous space to enjoy at night, as well as during the day. Choose from a variety of spotlights or concealed uplights, which can be recessed into the landscape’s architectural features. Choose the placement, amount of light (known as lumens) and how it will be directed to add dimension and interest to your space. Many options are available now for energy-efficient LED fittings with outdoor ratings. Solar-powered LED options are also available for outdoor lighting, with the added benefit of being DIY-friendly with no wiring.
10. The Silver Princess Finally, another tree not often thought of for courtyards is Eucalyptus caesia, commonly known as silver princess. This tree can often be seen staked out at the front of homes, showing off its brilliantly waxy bark and rose-pink flowers. As long as your courtyard receives enough light, this could be a great feature. One of the main problems with Eucalyptus caesia is its root instability and lack of wind resistance. Hopefully within your inner courtyard it will get all the wind protection it needs. Just make sure you have well-draining soil. Ultimately there are hundreds of trees suitable for your courtyard, just ensure you choose the right species for your site’s climate, ensure your footings are protected from any potential root damage, and enjoy the beautiful view.
8. Ornamental pear Pyrus calleryana is common throughout Melbourne, mainly due to it being economical and vigorous, making it a great screening tree. It is a resilient plant that copes well with water logging, compaction and moderate drought. Just make sure you get a quality cultivar, as some have weak branches that fall off. On that note, one of the strengths of the ornamental pear is also its weakness – it is cheap to buy and grows fast, but will require more maintenance over time. Allow for pruning once every 12 to 24 months, and a good sweeping after all its flowers have dropped.
7. Maidenhair tree Ginkgo Biloba is an ancient tree dating back millions of years. It’s not only an attractive and majestic tree, it has also been used for traditional medicine to enhance cognitive function within various cultures. Its leaves have a unique fan shape and fantastic autumn colouring. The tree is native to China, though it grows well in certain areas of Australia such as Melbourne. This ancient tree is slow growing but those with patience will be rewarded. Those with smaller courtyards will need to ensure the tree is pruned as it grows to quite a large size over time. If you do decide to plant one of these spectacular trees, ask your nursery if you are purchasing a male or female species, as the female’s fruit can produce unpleasant odours. For the sentimental reasons alone, this would be a great tree to plant for your future or current grandchildren to grow old with.
5. Chinese redbud Cercis chinensis is a beautiful tree that can be found in weeping varieties. It prefers full sun, so make sure your courtyard has plenty of it, and prepare to be blown away by its stunning blooming buds that cluster along the stems. Another great plant with a similar aesthetic is the Japanese flowering crabapple tree (Malus floribunda).
4. Ferns Ferns are a great start to sprucing up your inner courtyard; they are often slow growing and well suited to areas less exposed to direct sunlight and wind – perfect for a courtyard. Just make sure your courtyard walls are high enough, because if the fern grows above the roofline and into the direct sun it will start to struggle, as it goes from a shaded and sheltered environment into full sun. This of course depends on what type of climate you live in.
3. Bamboo Bamboo, while not technically a tree, is an easy growing courtyard plant; just make sure you don’t let it grow out of control. There are many different species and cultivars readily available, so choose one you like and ask your local nursery how often you will need to maintain it to keep it looking tidy and trim. Bamboo is also a great plant for down the sides of your house in order to screen off nosy neighbours.
2. Philodendrons These are classic courtyard plants, some of which are trees, and are well suited to indoor growing as well. They tend to do better in more tropical environments, so check with your nursery expert to see if they recommend the species of philodendron you’ve chosen. A good starting species is Philodendron bipinnatifidum which grows well in sheltered sites as far south as Melbourne, and is perfect for a small secluded courtyard.
Save Email 1. Japanese maple Acer palmatum, or the Japanese maple, is a common selection for inner courtyards, and rightly so. It is a relatively small tree, easy to prune and quite clean in its appearance. It does well in cooler shaded areas, making it suited to sheltered courtyards, and has beautiful foliage and autumn colours. Some cultivars even have bright red bark.
Outside, a shaded garden sits underneath the first-floor terrace. “We created this space so that it feels part of the surrounding garden, while being very private, and able to be used in all weather,” Pidcock says. Certainly privacy was a key concern in such a densely housed neighbourhood, with many houses and apartments overlooking the garden and windows.
The Deschampsia cespitosa is a woodland grass, so it works well in the shade here. Its brown, feathery appearance provides a backdrop for the tall, dramatic flowers of the wand loosestrife (Lythrum virgatum ‘Dropmore purple’) and the white petals of the Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’. “In its natural environment, the Lythrum virgatum is found close to water, so it works well next to the pond,” Davies says.
Davies also introduced grasses into the planting scheme, with a semi-pendulous and architectural Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) below the acer and some feathery tufted hair grass (Deschampsia cespitosa) at the back. “Texture is just as important as colour in the garden,” Davies says. “I’ve tried to combine solid domes, frothy grasses and scrappy leaves for a semi-natural and fulsome look, which softens the edges of the geometrical landscaping.”
The dark colour of the freestanding walls helps them to merge into the background, making the garden feel longer. “I like to use dark colours in small spaces,” Davies says. “It might feel counterintuitive, but dark shades are recessive in a garden so they make small spaces feel larger.” The tree on the left is a Japanese maple (Acer palmatum), which is umbrella-pruned to retain its lightness and show off the structure. The branches look stunning when lit up in the evening.
6. Break up the project Splitting a project into multiple phases may not save money in the long run, but it will certainly save you funds now and allow time for you to replenish your savings. Whether or not you’re working with a landscape designer or landscape architect, if you’d like to break your project into phases, come up with a master plan for the finished garden before you begin. This can be as simple as drawing a map of your backyard, including the size needed for your top priorities, like outdoor seating, a dining patio or a garden shed. “A master plan is key,” Mullins says, “so that work is not being redone later. Also, the client and contractor, if you’re hiring one, should be in sync about what size project and dollar amount makes sense for each phase.”
Don’t want to spend too much on maintenance going forward? Choose evergreen and shrub-heavy planting designs, and limit the number of labour-intensive flower beds. If you’re installing a lawn, consider reducing its size or choosing a no-mow turf blend to cut down on the need for frequent irrigating and mowing.
5. Plan according to your maintenance budget Different garden styles, hardscape materials and plants require different levels of care. Before you begin, consider how much of your budget – or your own time and effort – you’re willing to put toward keeping weeds at bay, plants trimmed, grassy areas mowed and walkways swept, and plan your design accordingly.
Worth splurging: Save your budget to size up on plants that make a big impact in your space. “It’s a good idea to get trees and slow growers in larger sizes – if budget allows – so you’re not waiting forever for those key plants to grow,” Mullins says. If you do choose to purchase a more mature tree, ask for the help of a professional for siting and installing in order to reduce the risk of the tree experiencing shock when transplanted.
3 factors to consider to maximise your plant budget ◦Plant type: Rely on evergreen trees and shrubs for structure. They fill beds and look good year-round. Choose perennials and flowering shrubs that bloom year after year, rather than annual flowers that will be replaced after a season. Adding plants native to your region, or those that are well-adapted to your region, will also cut back on irrigation and care requirements – native plants support local wildlife and pollinators to boot. ◦Number of plants: Landscape designer Beth Mullins advises clients to avoid the temptation for “instant gardening” – overfilling a bed with flowering plants, grasses and shrubs planted too close together. Instead, space plants, and purchase plants accordingly, for what the garden will look like in three to five years, taking into account the plants’ mature sizes. “Plant for the long term, in a way that is best for the plants to grow in over time,” Mullins says, “and avoid having to toss out or transplant plants that are planted too closely.” ◦Plant size: Plants such as ornamental grasses, many perennials, ground covers, vines, edible herbs, fruits and vegetables grow in quickly and can reach mature o...
4. Get smart on plant choices While hardscape will eat up the majority of your budget, purchasing plants to fill a backyard – or even a single garden bed – adds up quickly. While it’s easy to get carried away at the nursery, keep in mind that not all plants are created equal. Some plants take more water, fertiliser and care to look good – this can lead to higher long-term costs for maintenance. Other plants like annual flowers require replacing every year and require additional annual costs.
Garden size: 32 square metres Property: Terrace house Designer: Antonia Schofield Photos by Antonia Schofield and Sarah Cuttle “I’ve done classic gardens, romantic, contemporary, rustic – always working to the client’s brief – but this is very much my personal taste,” says garden designer Schofield of this glorious, pint-sized oasis. “I love exotic, jungly plants and they grow well in London because we’ve got a bit of a microclimate here.” Her clients, who are neighbours and have since become firm friends, are artist Graham Clayton and his partner. Clayton has been known to use the space as something of an alfresco gallery, displaying bronze casts of his work as part of the annual Artists’ Open House event in the area. Clearly a visual couple, the pair had plenty of ideas about what they wanted to see when they opened their kitchen doors. Schofield was happy to oblige. “Ninety nine per cent of my clients have no plant knowledge, but these guys really know their plants. If anything they pushed me to experiment and be bolder and find more unusual specimens.” A bamboo backdrop is punctuated by flame-coloured crocosmia. The huge white pot of purple agapanthus is often moved around...
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