Being a garage floor, Roger had to account for the possibility of spillage of various fluids including oil. Roger chose premium grade MAPEI Kerapoxy due to its stain proof and chemical-resistant formula. It also provides the strength necessary for this environment.

The sealer we use is NEYRA FORCE Sealer . NEYRA FORCE Sealer is a Premium Alternative to Coal Tar and Asphalt Emulsion. Neyra Force is a water-based, petroleum resin sealer that outperforms traditional pavement sealers. While providing the benefits of coal tar sealer, it is also environmentally friendly and safe for your employees to apply. Neyra Force is a high performance alternative to both coal tar and asphalt emulsion sealers providing exceptional coverage, durability and color stability. Technical Information Neyra Force Marketing Piece A PREMIUM ALTERNATIVE A high performance alternative to both coal tar and asphalt emulsion sealers providing exceptional coverage, durability and color stability. DURABLE & LONG LASTING Proprietary engineered resin is formulated to create tough and long lasting protection. PROTECT & BEAUTIFIES A tight seal forms an impenetrable barrier to protect against the destructive affects of sun, oxidation, water and chemicals, giving pavement a jet black color. GAS & OIL RESISTANT Resists damage caused by gasoline, oil jet fuel leaks and spills. ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY A low VOC, non-flammable coating that contains NO coal tar. COOL WEATHER FORMULA AVAILABLE Neyra Force is also available in Neyra’s cool weather formula, providing exceptional curing in cooler temperatures down to 40°F. To learn more, contact Neyra Industries at customerservice@neyra.com or 1-800-543-7077. Or visits their website @ https://neyra.com/products/sealers/neyra-force/ Pavement Sealers Neyra AE Neyra Force GuardTop Tarconite PaveShield SunShield Jennite Jennite AE Additives Crack Fillers, Primers & Paint Supplies, Tools & Equipment Sports Surfacing Contractor Contractor Property Manager Property Manager Road Maintenance Road Maintenance Architect/Engineer Architect/Engineer Sport Surfacing Sport Surfacing Product Catalog Product Catalog Phone: 1-800-543-7077 Fax: 513-733-3989 customerservice@neyra.com Corporate Headquarters 10700 Evendale Drive Cincinnati, OH 45241 Neyra Logo © 2021 Neyra

Ever notice how your iron fence looks worse every spring after another Chicago winter? That slow deterioration is not cosmetic - it is active metal failure that compounds every freeze-thaw cycle until replacement becomes the only option. Windy City Painters works with homeowners across the Chicago North Side and Near West Side to restore original iron fencing on greystones, two-flats, Victorian brownstones, and coach houses before that point is reached. PROJECT OVERVIEW This iron fence restoration involved a classic Chicago residential property with original wrought iron fencing showing surface rust across the majority of pickets, flaking previous paint coats, and localized deep pitting near the base rails. A structural check identified two loose pickets requiring welding before any surface preparation or coating began. Total linear footage fell in the mid-range for a standard Chicago residential lot. MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS Windy City Painters selected Ospho rust converter for chemically neutralizing active iron oxide before priming. Ospho reacts with rust to form a stable phosphate compound that stops corrosion progression rather than simply sealing over it. Sherwin-Williams DTM rust-inhibitive primer was applied to all bare and converted surfaces, followed by two finish coats of Rust-Oleum DTM in satin black. DTM - direct to metal - formulas provide corrosion inhibitors built into the coating matrix, which matters significantly in Chicago's climate. THE PROCESS Step 1 - Structural Assessment and Welding Coordination. Before any surface preparation begins, Windy City Painters inspects every picket and rail connection for structural integrity. Loose or cracked iron must be welded before coating. Paint applied over a compromised joint will fail within one season as movement continues to break the bond. On this project, two pickets were tack-welded by a coordinating welder before prep started. Step 2 - Wire Wheel Grinding and Needle Gun Descaling. All rusted sections were ground to bare or near-bare metal using wire wheel attachments and needle gun descaling tools. This step removes loose scale, flaking previous coatings, and surface contamination that would prevent primer adhesion. Skipping mechanical prep is the single most common reason iron fence paint fails prematurely on Chicago properties. Step 3 - Ospho Rust Converter Application. Ospho was brushed into all pitted and converted areas and allowed to cure fully. The phosphoric acid chemistry converts iron oxide into iron phosphate, arresting active rust and creating a surface that accepts primer more effectively than bare metal alone. Corroseal is an equivalent alternative used on projects with heavier pitting. Step 4 - DTM Primer and Finish Coat Application. Sherwin-Williams DTM rust-inhibitive primer was applied across all prepared surfaces. Two topcoats of Rust-Oleum DTM in satin black followed after full primer cure. DTM finish coats add a second corrosion-inhibiting layer and provide the UV and weather resistance needed for Chicago exterior iron work. CHICAGO-SPECIFIC CHALLENGES Chicago iron fencing faces conditions that accelerate corrosion faster than most US markets. Lake humidity keeps metal surface moisture elevated through much of the year. Road salt splash from winter maintenance reaches fencing along parkways and sidewalk edges, introducing chlorides that aggressively attack iron. Freeze-thaw cycles expand any rust pocket that has formed under paint, lifting coatings from the inside and creating the classic bubbled-paint appearance homeowners notice every spring. WHAT TO EXPECT LONG-TERM With Ospho conversion, DTM primer, and two DTM finish coats properly applied over mechanically prepared surfaces, most Chicago residential iron fences hold 5-8 years before needing significant touch-up. Annual visual inspection for any chips or bare spots, with immediate touch-up using Rust-Oleum DTM, extends that window considerably. PRO TIPS Tip 1 - Address any bare metal spot the same season you notice it. A pinhole of exposed iron becomes a rust bubble within one Chicago winter and a flaking section by the following spring. Tip 2 - Never paint over active rust without a converter step. Ospho or Corroseal is inexpensive insurance against a complete repaint two years early. Tip 3 - Check picket bases at grade level every spring. Ground contact accelerates corrosion at the base faster than anywhere else on the fence. Catching it early keeps welding out of the equation. Contact Windy City Painters at windypainters.com for a project estimate. FAQ Q: What does iron fence painting cost in Chicago? A: Residential iron fence painting with proper rust prep typically runs $300-$900 for standard lot footage. Windy City Painters provides itemized estimates based on linear footage, rust severity, and whether structural welding is required before surface preparation begins. Q: Do you paint over rust or remove it first? A: Windy City Painters always addresses active rust before priming. Ospho or Corroseal rust converter chemically neutralizes iron oxide, and wire wheel grinding removes loose scale - coating over unaddressed rust guarantees early failure on Chicago iron fences. Q: When does an iron fence need welding before painting? A: Loose pickets, cracked rails, or connections with visible movement require welding before any coating work begins. Paint cannot stabilize a structural joint - Windy City Painters coordinates with welders when this condition is identified during initial assessment. Q: How long does iron fence paint last in Chicago? A: With mechanical prep, Ospho conversion, and Sherwin-Williams or Rust-Oleum DTM coatings, properly restored iron fencing holds 5-8 years in Chicago's freeze-thaw climate before needing significant maintenance. Q: Is Ospho better than Corroseal for Chicago iron fences? A: Both are effective rust converters. Ospho is a liquid phosphoric acid treatment suited for moderate rust and pitting. Corroseal is a latex-based converter-primer hybrid better suited to heavier rust profiles. Windy City Painters selects based on site conditions. Q: What finish sheen works best on iron fencing? A: Satin or semi-gloss black is the traditional and most durable choice for Chicago greystone and brownstone properties. Satin hides minor surface imperfections better than gloss while still providing adequate UV and moisture resistance. Q: Can iron fence painting be done in spring or fall in Chicago? A: Yes. Windy City Painters schedules iron fence work in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit with low ambient humidity - spring and early fall are often ideal windows that avoid both winter cold and peak summer humidity.

Tricia Shay Photography
Inspiration for a mid-sized contemporary concrete floor and brown floor great room remodel in Milwaukee with a two-sided fireplace and white walls

Ever notice how your iron fence looks more rust than paint after another brutal Chicago winter? That is usually the moment homeowners start searching for a painting contractor who actually understands metal - not just someone who will brush a coat of black paint over active corrosion and call it done. At Windy City Painters, iron fence restoration is one of our most requested services on the North Side and Near West Side, and for good reason. These fences are old, they are beautiful, and they deserve a proper finish system. PROJECT OVERVIEW This project involved a full ornamental iron fence on a North Side greystone property. The fence was original to the building - likely installed in the 1910s or 1920s - and had gone through multiple paint cycles without any rust conversion work. By the time Windy City Painters arrived, the horizontal rails showed active pitting, the vertical spindles had surface rust under lifting paint, and two corner posts had minor joint separation. The homeowner wanted the fence restored to a sharp satin black finish that would hold through multiple Chicago winters. MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS Ospho Rust Converter - phosphoric acid formula that chemically neutralizes iron oxide and converts it to iron phosphate, a stable paintable surface. Used on all pitted and actively corroded areas before primer application. Rust-Oleum DTM Rust-Inhibitive Primer - direct-to-metal primer that bonds to both converted rust zones and bare metal, blocking moisture intrusion at the substrate level. Sherwin-Williams DTM Acrylic Topcoat - flexible, moisture-resistant finish formulated to expand and contract with metal through temperature cycling. Applied in two finish coats in satin black. For cases with deeper rust penetration, Corroseal Water-Based Rust Converter and Metal Primer is an alternative that combines conversion and priming in a single product, useful on complex ornamental profiles where two-product systems are harder to apply. THE PROCESS Step 1 - Mechanical Preparation. Windy City Painters wire-wheels all loose rust, flaking paint, and scale using angle grinders fitted with wire wheel attachments. On heavily pitted sections, needle gun descaling is used to reach rust in tight ornamental grooves. This step is non-negotiable. No coating bonds reliably to iron oxide, and skipping this step is the single most common reason iron fence paint fails within a year. Step 2 - Rust Conversion. Ospho is brushed into all pitted and bare metal areas and allowed to fully react. The surface shifts from orange to a grayish-black iron phosphate layer. This stable base accepts primer without the risk of rust migrating upward through the paint film over time. Step 3 - Primer Coat. Rust-Oleum DTM rust-inhibitive primer is applied full coverage over the entire fence surface, including areas that appeared clean but showed minor surface oxidation. DTM primer acts as a moisture barrier and mechanical adhesion layer for the finish coats. Step 4 - Finish Coats. Two coats of Sherwin-Williams DTM acrylic topcoat are applied in satin black, with adequate dry time between coats. The DTM formula remains flexible after cure, allowing the iron to expand and contract through Chicago temperature swings without the topcoat cracking or peeling at joints. CHICAGO-SPECIFIC CHALLENGES Ornamental iron on Chicago greystones, two-flats, and Victorian brownstones was almost never hot-dip galvanized. It was painted from installation and has relied on continuous paint maintenance ever since. Chicago winters add specific stress: freeze-thaw cycles force water into any paint film crack, expanding it; road salt spray elevates corrosive chloride exposure; and humidity during spring thaw keeps metal surfaces wet for extended periods. This combination accelerates rust spread beneath paint films that appear intact on the surface. WHAT TO EXPECT LONG-TERM A properly prepped and primed iron fence finished with a DTM topcoat system should hold 5-8 years in Chicago conditions before any touch-up is warranted. Annual inspection of joints, welds, and areas near grade level will catch early moisture entry before it becomes a larger rust issue. Windy City Painters recommends scheduling touch-up earlier rather than waiting for full paint failure to protect the prep investment. PRO TIPS Tip 1 - Address joint separation before painting. If fence rails have separated at welds or mechanical joints, water will enter and rust will restart from inside the connection point regardless of the exterior coating. Flag any separated joints for welding before any paint system is applied. Tip 2 - Never use latex house paint on iron fences. Standard exterior latex lacks the adhesion and flexibility for bare metal. Always use a product labeled DTM or specify a rust-inhibitive primer underneath any finish coat applied to iron. Tip 3 - Paint in late spring or early fall. Iron fences exposed to full sun in peak summer heat can reach surface temperatures that cause solvent-based coatings to blister during application. Ideal application conditions are 50-85 degrees Fahrenheit with low humidity and no direct intense sun on the metal surface. Learn more about iron fence painting cost in Chicago and schedule your free estimate at windypainters.com FAQ Q: What does iron fence painting cost in Chicago? A: Windy City Painters typically prices residential iron fence painting at $8-$18 per linear foot. Variables include rust severity, spindle density, ornamental profile complexity, and whether rust conversion products like Ospho or Corroseal are required before priming. Q: Can you paint over rust without grinding it off first? A: No. Windy City Painters always performs mechanical prep before any coating. Wire wheel grinding removes loose scale and flaking paint. Rust converters handle residual oxidation chemically. Skipping this step means the new paint film will delaminate within one season. Q: How do I know if my iron fence needs a welder before painting? A: Windy City Painters inspects all joints and rail connections during the estimate. Rail separation, cracked welds, or sections that flex when pressed indicate structural issues that should be welded before any paint system is applied to avoid reopening at stress points. Q: What is the difference between Ospho and Corroseal? A: Both are rust converters. Ospho is a phosphoric acid solution applied as a separate step before priming, giving maximum control over conversion and primer selection. Corroseal combines conversion and primer in one product, which works well on complex ornamental profiles where a two-step system is harder to apply evenly. Q: How long does the paint last on an iron fence in Chicago? A: With full mechanical prep, rust conversion, DTM primer, and two DTM topcoats, Windy City Painters clients typically see 5-8 years of performance before touch-up is needed, even through Chicago freeze-thaw cycling and road salt exposure. Q: Do you paint iron fences that are still structurally sound but heavily rusted on the surface? A: Yes. Surface rust, even heavy pitting, does not necessarily indicate structural failure. Windy City Painters evaluates each fence individually. As long as the metal is sound under the rust, proper mechanical prep and a rust converter restore the surface to a paintable condition.

Step #1 Apply BM CLEAN As you can see in the 'Before' picture above, this cedar deck was extremly dirty. This required an extra step in comparison to the typical deck stripping process. My paint rep at Benjamin Moore recommended a product called CLEAN. It comes in one gallon plastic containers and can be applied out of a plastic pail or with a garden sprayer. We used a Garden sprayer and chose a flat tip for application. The three gallon garden sprayer was filled with 2 gallons of water and one gallon of the CLEAN solution. This is a strong mixture and can be reduced to up to 6 parts water and one part of the Benjamin Moore CLEAN. This approximately 22x20 deck had a board running perpindicular to the rest of the floor boards which divided it into 2 equal parts. Our method was to apply the solution to 3-4 of these 10' boards at a time. Allow it to set up for a few minutes and then scrub away with the deck brush. The agitation loosens up the dirt and grime and is then removed with a pressure washer a board a time. The flat tip on the pressure washer was almost the same width as the floor board. It is important to clean the sides of the board too because any remaining dirt or stain will be visible. Benjamin Moore Deck Restoration products named Clean,Restore,brighten Step #2 Apply BM RESTORE The second step is exactly the same as the first step but with a different solution called Benjamin Moore RESTORE. The deck was dry before we started the 2nd step becuase it was baking hot outside. You use the same 2/1 mixture of water to chemical. This chemical will remove the stain still present in the deck floor. Make sure to rinse the garden sprayer clean before adding the restore solution. Unlike the BM CLEAN, the BM RESTORE has an orange-ish color in appearance. It did a fine job of removing most of the stain, but not 100% of it. There were a few areas that required a 3rd coat of restore but the process was quicker. Step #3 Apply BM BRIGHTEN The third step is exactly the same as the first two step but the chemical solution used was Benjamin Moore 'BRIGHTEN'. Again, the garden sprayer was cleaned and filled with 2 parts water and one part Brighten. The brightener not only lightens the wood but it also neutralizes the previous stripper solution. As stated before the Restore adds a bit of color and the Brighten will remove any traces of it. you still have to agitate the brightener with a scrub brush and either pressure wash it off or use a garden hose. We used the pressure washer for faster results. After it dries the wood look a lot brighter but we still found some spots of stain that had not come off. Apply Sikkens Stain As stated above the stain we used is called "Sikkens Proluxe" which is basically just a slight re-branding of the classic Sikkens Stain. The formula is exactly the same. In fact, the secondary name is still called 'Cetol' SRD RE. The color chosen was "CEDAR". The weather was quite hot for a typical Calgary Spring day so we stained a 10' section of floor board at a time. The deck has a metal railing so the supporting feet had to be brushed in with a 2.5" natural bristle paint brush. for the rest of the job a 6" Wooster natural bristle deck brush was used. The handle was remove and a broom handle was inserted. The stain was stirred frequently and poured into a plastic Simms brand roller pan. Semi transparent Oil based stain has the consistency of water so you need to be careful not to spill any of it. When applying to a board you hit the sides first with the brush and then fillin the rest. Ten feet of floor board can be stain in a short period of time. it's important not to leave any streaks so it is adviseable to back-brush the entie length before moving on to the next board. The staining only took about 2.5 hours to complete. One coat is the manufacturers recommendation. One last thing about Sikkens Stain. To maintain this beautiful look the deck should be re- coated once a year, preferably every spring. It's like applying sunscreen yearly to protect the wood against further damage. Two gallons was enough to cover this 450 sq foot deck.

The owner of this period cottage in the old market town of Tadcaster near Leeds, had what was once a beautiful Yorkshire stone floor in the kitchen. It has been a long time since it had been given a proper clean so over the years and with the Kitchen being a high traffic area the whole floor including the grout had darkened and he now wanted it refurbished in time for Christmas. I visited the property to assess what needed to be done and could see straight away that any protective sealer that was once on the floor had long since worn off. In fact, it was so consistently dirty with years of built-up grease and dirt I had to wonder if one had ever been applied. I explained what the floor needed was a really deep intensive clean and then a sealer applied to make it easy to keep clean. The problem with most tile and stone is its porosity and if left unprotected dirt easily becomes lodged into its pores making cleaning a struggle. To prove the difference that can be achieved and to allow me to work out a process on which I could base an accurate quote I ran a test clean on part of the kitchen floor. The test clean went very well, the difference was remarkable, and the cleaned section really stood out. Pleased with the potential of a clean floor they accepted my quote, and we pencilled a date in the diary. I returned on the appointed date and began by removing the kickboards from under the kitchen units to protect them from splashing. Next, I set about spaying the floor with a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean, this is a purpose made tile and grout cleaner that eats into the grease and dirt so it can be removed. This product works best if you leave it for ten minutes before scrubbing in using a heavy-duty machine fitted with a heavy-duty brush. The soil released from the floor was then extracted using a wet vacuum. The Pro-Clean did a good job on the grout however it was clear something stronger was required to really get the stone clean, so I stepped up a gear and applied Tile Doctor Remove and Go using the same process as before. This is a really good product for removing deeply ingrained grease and dirt. The final step of the cleaning process was to give the stone and acid wash using Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up to remove old grout haze and other mineral deposits; additionally, being an acidic product, it counters the alkaline cleaning products used earlier neutralising the pH level of the floor and leaving it ready for sealing. Before sealing I like to discuss the different products available and the finishes they can provide. In this case my clients’ main concerns were that they wanted the stone to look natural and easy to maintain going forward. With this in mind, Tile Doctor Seal & Go Extra was chosen, it’s a modern acrylic-based sealer that brings out the natural colours in the stone and gives a very slight smooth finish. The protection it provides will prevent dirt becoming ingrained int the pores of the stone and ensure the floor is easier to maintain. Several coats were applied, until we achieved the required finish. The deep cleaning process and fresh sealer transformed the stone floor bringing out its original beauty and my customer couldn’t believe the difference in the floor and was highly delighted. For aftercare I gave the client a bottle of Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner, this product is pH neutral so it will clean the floor but won’t damage the sealer. Often people use household cleaners for cleaning tiled floors, but due to the strong chemicals they contain, they can do more harm than good by slowly stripping away the protective sealer and taking the floor back to square one. Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner is reasonably priced, and the concentrated formula means a small amount goes a long way so it’s well worth using. This was a pleasurable job for me as it was good to see the floor transform from dull and lifeless to clean and showing the natural colour and beauty of the York stone, and always lovely to have another satisfied client. Simon Testa North East Yorkshire Tile Doctor