Merrick Ales Photography
Mid-century modern living room photo in Austin

This is an example of a mid-sized backyard water fountain landscape in Dallas.

Wall Control Pegboard features formed flanges on the sides of each panel to space the pegboard panel face off of the wall so hooks can pass through. These formed flanges make installation easy because they eliminate the need to build a frame work like old, traditional pegboard sheets require. Additionally, these formed flanges create a small space for access to the backside of the panels where things like extension cords and, in this case, LED lights can be threaded through to create a cool effect behind the face of the Wall Control Pegboard. Thanks for the great customer submission William! Your new shop looks awesome and we love the LED lights behind your Wall Control Pegboard!

This is an example of a mid-sized backyard brick water fountain landscape in Las Vegas for summer.

With nothing but a backpack and a few art pieces in hand, our client, with southern charm, was in dire need of furniture and fast. After liking our aesthetic style, Regan Baker Design was hired to help furnish and style his entire 1 bedroom apartment in Russian Hill. The overall color pallet was derived from his uncle’s large scale highway artwork, which is now displayed proudly above the custom sofa. From there we built the design around his love for modern spaces, his personal hobby of photography and his love for music. With the exception of a few great pieces of art, we worked hand in hand with our client to assure his bachelor pad was masculine, yet casual modern and in the end created a bachelor pad Ryan Gosling would be happy to bring his dates back to. Photography by Odessa

This splash pad is perfect for the rustic setting. It blends with this Boston Home set in a wooded area.
Inspiration for a rustic patio remodel in Boston

Easily access to tools with the innovation of a hand tool rack.
Inspiration for a small attached carport remodel in Orange County

This 14' circle re-circulating splash pad with 12 below ground nozzles, 3 feature bases with spray caps, and Polysoft Safety Surface. They will add above ground features as the little ones get older for fun above ground water play.

Wall Control metal pegboard and slotted tool board accessories being put to work here in this very nice woodworking shop.
Example of an urban garage design in Atlanta

Couple different views of this rustic splash pad. The perfect backyard setting for this splash pad.

Wall Control tool board screw driver holders mount to pegboard strips tool board rails and standard metal pegboard sized panels
Urban garage photo in Atlanta

Creating a comfortable outdoor living space is a priority for many homeowners and DIY enthusiasts. With rising summer temperatures, installing a shade tarp in your backyard offers an affordable and effective solution for sun protection. We’ve developed this detailed, step-by-step guide to help you confidently install a shade tarp that not only shields you from the sun but also adds aesthetic appeal to your outdoor area. Benefits of Installing a Backyard Shade Tarp Before diving into the installation process, let’s explore the key benefits of having a backyard shade tarp: Provides UV Protection: Keeps your family and guests safe from harmful sun exposure. Reduces Outdoor Temperatures: Creates a cooler, more enjoyable outdoor space. Protects Outdoor Furniture: Extends the life of patio furniture by reducing sun damage. Enhances Outdoor Aesthetics: Adds a modern, stylish look to your yard. Budget-Friendly: More affordable compared to permanent structures like pergolas. Materials and Tools You’ll Need To begin your DIY backyard shade project, gather the following materials and tools: Materials: Shade tarp (UV-resistant and breathable) Sturdy posts or existing structures (trees, fences, walls) Mounting hardware (eye bolts, D-rings, turnbuckles, snap hooks) Nylon or polyester rope, or stainless-steel wire Concrete (if installing new posts) Tools: Power drill Measuring tape Level Ladder Wrench or adjustable spanner Post hole digger (if installing new posts) Step 1: Plan Your Shade Tarp Layout The first step in installing your backyard shade tarp is careful planning. Take time to assess your outdoor area and answer these key questions: Where is the sun’s path throughout the day? What size and shape of tarp best suits your space? Will you anchor the tarp to existing structures or install new posts? What height do you want the tarp to sit at for maximum shade and airflow? Pro Tip: Use string or garden hoses to visualize the tarp layout on the ground before making permanent decisions. Step 2: Measure and Mark Anchor Points Once you’ve determined the tarp’s location and orientation: Measure the tarp dimensions. Mark the exact points where each corner of the tarp will be anchored. Ensure that the anchor points are at least 5–10% longer than the tarp size to allow for tensioning and slight adjustments. Consider slope angles for water runoff. Aim for at least a 20-degree angle to prevent water pooling on the tarp. Step 3: Install Support Posts (If Necessary) If your backyard lacks existing anchor points like trees or fences, you’ll need to install sturdy support posts: Dig post holes at least 24 inches deep and 8-12 inches wide for stability. Set posts in concrete, making sure they remain plumb and level. Allow the concrete to cure for at least 24–48 hours before applying tension from the tarp. We recommend using pressure-treated wood, galvanized steel poles, or aluminum posts for longevity and strength. Step 4: Install Mounting Hardware With your anchor points ready, it’s time to install the necessary hardware: Attach eye bolts or pad eyes securely into walls, posts, or other fixed structures. For added flexibility and adjustability, install turnbuckles or tensioners to fine-tune the tarp’s tightness. Connect snap hooks, D-rings, or carabiners to make assembly and disassembly easier. Make sure all hardware is rated for outdoor use to prevent rust and corrosion. Step 5: Attach and Tension the Shade Tarp Now it’s time for the most satisfying part—mounting the shade tarp: Begin by attaching one corner of the tarp to an anchor point. Gradually attach the remaining corners, moving diagonally for even tension. Adjust each connection point using your turnbuckles, ropes, or cables. Pull the tarp tight enough to avoid sagging, but not so tight that it risks tearing. Check that the tarp maintains the desired slope for rainwater runoff and adjust tension as needed. Step 6: Final Adjustments and Safety Check Before enjoying your new shaded area: Inspect all anchor points and hardware for stability. Test the tarp’s tension and make adjustments for even distribution. Ensure that no sharp edges or loose connections remain that could damage the tarp or pose a safety hazard. Confirm that the tarp is secure in windy conditions by giving it a gentle tug. If you live in an area with frequent high winds, consider removing the tarp during storms to prevent damage. Step 7: Enjoy Your Shaded Backyard Oasis Once installed, your backyard shade tarp provides a comfortable and protective space for outdoor gatherings, relaxation, or family activities. You can decorate underneath with outdoor furniture, string lights, or potted plants to create a personalized outdoor retreat. Maintenance Tips for Long-Lasting Shade Tarp Performance To extend the life of your shade tarp, follow these maintenance guidelines: Regularly check for wear and tear, especially around anchor points and seams. Clean the tarp periodically with mild soap and water to prevent mildew buildup. Store the tarp indoors during harsh weather seasons if it's not designed for year-round use. Tighten hardware as needed to maintain proper tension and avoid sagging. By following these simple care steps, your shade tarp will continue to deliver years of sun protection and outdoor comfort. Conclusion: Upgrade Your Outdoor Space with a DIY Shade Tarp Installing a shade tarp in your backyard is a cost-effective and rewarding DIY project. With careful planning, quality materials, and proper installation techniques, you’ll enjoy cool, shaded outdoor living all season long. This step-by-step guide ensures your project goes smoothly from start to finish.

Grid wall storage keeps all of your tools readily accessible.
Example of a classic garage design in Orange County

Mid-sized transitional attached two-car garage workshop photo in Denver

Wall mounted slatwall with hooks and baskets for garage or shed taken by Alaska Premier Closets.

You'll be floored by how much space you can save when you organize your garage with elfa®! This space features Ventilated Shelves and Shelf Baskets to round up everything from sporting equipment and camping gear to paint cans and garden hoses. Smooth-gliding drawers organize smaller items while elfa utility Hooks and Holders get hard-to-store items up off the floor. elfa utility Boards combined with our Shelf, Boxes and Hooks create an organized space for hand tools and hardware. And like all elfa spaces, it's completely adjustable!

We are showing love for this kitchen sink installation. These homeowners felt they would benefit by mounting an additional sink (Model #OUS1515-SQR) to their kitchen island! Not only did they add style, but greater functionality to their kitchen.

This client at a property in Bamber Bridge was really fed up with his Indian sandstone kitchen floor. The sandstone suited the age of the property but due to its course rough texture he was having issues keeping the stone clean and maintaining it to a decent standard. Ideally, he wanted something long lasting that was easier to keep clean. Sealers can only help so much on a rough stone like this, in my opinion really rough stone is best sold for use outside in patio’s etc. My client didn’t want to rip it up as it ran underneath the kitchen units and it cost them a lot of money to have it laid, so having been on our website and checked out our previous work they realised we could mill the stone and smooth down the rough texture to a much smoother finish and yet still leave enough texture in the stone for it to look very natural. We have developed a system at Tile Doctor called “Milling” which is very similar to sanding rough wood to reveal the inner patina. Once done we then we give it one more clean before adding a fresh sealer to add protection. Milling does change the look of the stone as you will see on the before and after pictures on this page, so it is not for everyone. It is however a one-off process so once done it will never need to be milled again. Like all stone floors it will still benefit from a deep clean and re-seal every five years (depending on use) just to keep it looking its best but after milling you will be able to walk on the stone in bare feet or socks and slippers as it really does make a big difference to the finish. By milling we mainly use coarse-grit burnishing pads that contain segments made from hard industrial diamonds. Working our way up the different grits the pads are applied using a weighted floor buffer which is run over each tile several times to cut the stone back. The process is so effective we often find that the pads are all you need to clean the stone so hardly ever use any chemicals with this process, apart from the sealer which is applied once fully dry. I should mention that Milling is not something a customer should consider doing themselves as you need invest in a heavy-duty weighted buffing machine which are rarely available for hire. To seal internal Sandstone floors, I usually use Tile Doctor Colour Grow which brings out the natural colours in the stone. On this occasion however two coats of Tile Doctor Ultra Seal were applied to the stone and grout which results in an invisible natural finish and better matched the clients’ requirements. My client was really pleased with the new floor and left the following feedback: “Only finished today but looks so good now. Russell did a great job milling the flags to a much smoother finish. Two coats of sealant applied by Heidi on last day which hopefully will keep it looking that way. Mark F. Bamber Bridge” For aftercare cleaning I left them with a bottle of Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner which is specially designed for cleaning sealed floors. You need to be very careful when using supermarket cleaners as many are tool strong and will slowly strip the sealer off the floor, always read the label. Russell Taylor Lancashire Tile Doctor

I was recently asked to this property in Wimbledon in to see if there was anything we could do to resolve the problem with a recently laid Black Limestone tiled floor. The builders that had laid the Limestone did not cover or clean the tiles prior to sealing with an impregnating seal thereby trapping in all the dirt from the building works. They then grouted the tiles but didn’t clean the grout off the surface before putting on another two coats of sealer all of which resulted in a very poor finish. Naturally the customer was not happy so called them back to rectify the problem and so they came back and tried to strip the sealer off with cloths and a chemical stripper. Then without rinsing the stone to remove the chemicals they added another two coats of sealer; in desperation the lady gave up with them and called me in. To resolve I tried all the sealant strippers available to me but couldn’t budge the mess effectively. The only other option available was to diamond grind the surface so I discussed this with the customer and she agreed to this and left me to carry on. Initially I started with a coarse 400 grit diamond pad but even that wasn’t having much effect so in the end I had to cut back the surface using a 100 grit pad moving up to 200 grit, then 400 before finally stopping at 800. To lubricate the process you need to use a little water and then rinse away the resultant soil after each pad. If this was a polished stone surface I would have continued with finer and finer grits to restore the surface polish however these tiles were rough limestone and I needed to leave it as near to how it should be. Once all the Limestone had been stripped back the stone turned an uninviting grey colour, so to bring it back to black I applied two coats of Tile Doctor Stone Oil which enhanced the colour. I left the floor overnight to allow the Stone Oil to dry out and then returned to seal the Limestone using two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer that enhances the colour in the stone and will protect it from staining going forward. When the customer saw the final result she was overwhelmed and said she felt like crying with relief, because the floor now looked how she had imagined it to be. It was a great feeling for me to know that I had solved the problems for her.